Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As title asks, is anyone running a Pulsar LT with the 6.6 gasser?  I've been considering getting it for my truck to try out, but wondering if anyone else has it already and can give some feedback.  I guess really the only things I'd use it for is to change the tpms thresholds and adjust for the 35's I'm now running.  It also says it can be used to clear engine codes, which I currently already have a cheap handheld scanner that can do that. 

Posted

I have it. I put 37s on and used it to adjust for that, throttle sensitivity, and lower tpms warning. No complaints. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has been working great here. Bought mainly for tire size and TPMS modding. I keep the throttle at 30% over stock and it makes the truck feel like it should from the factory. Kills the sluggish hesitation and makes the truck feel like the 464tq is there. Also reduces the 2>1 shift clunk on deceleration.

Posted

Good info thanks.  I bought one, just haven’t had a chance to install it yet.  I added 35’s so my main reason for getting the Pulsar was to change the tire size and tpms lower threshold.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

finally got around to installing this.  Went to plug in the harness and it doesn't fit the oem plugs of my truck.  The 2 guide rails on the connectors of the Pulsar plugs are further apart than the ones on my oem plugs.  I reached out to Pulsar and they are telling me it should fit; well it doesn't.  Ugh, hoping they will take it back, but no further response from them yet.  the raised part of the grey connector, as seen in picture; top one is lined up in groove, but bottom one doesn't line up as it's spaced further out.  oem plugs spacing is 2-5/8" between the 2 guides and the Pulsar plugs are 2-7/8" apart.  Guess they use slightly different Delphi plugs.

IMG_2756.jpg

Posted

There is another connector that is very similar looking in the same area..try it. I ran into the same issue. Instructions are horrible at showing the correct one to plug into. If you havnt figured it out by tomorrow, i'll get a pic of where mine is plugged in.

Posted (edited)

I gave up for the night.  I didn’t see another connector like that in that area anywhere.  If you don’t mind sending a picture my way that would be great.  The one I tried is right below the coolant tank and brake fluid reservoir.  It has a big plastic bracket coming off the frame rail up, and the comnector has a christmas tree clip holding it to the bracket.  Wire harness runs from firewall, along inner fender up to the ecm.

Edited by Sonders
Added more details
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I finally got mine installed recently after talking to TS423.  I was overlooking the correct plug like a big dumbie.  I’ve only driven the truck once since installing it and the throttle response is noticeably better in setting 3.  When going through all the different programmable options I noticed the rear gear ratio defaulted to 3:23 so I changed it to 3:73, along with my tire size from 34 to 35’s.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,533 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...