Jump to content

Supercharge

RYLES
 Share

Recommended Posts

RYLES New Member

RYLES

Posted
Posted

First off I'm not mechanically inclined when it comes to the engine side of vehicles.. I am looking into supercharging my stock 2016 1500 LT. Just looking for some information on what I should upgrade to be able to handle the supercharger. Some things I've done already, I have leveled the truck, upgraded to steel front and rear bumpers new rims and 33" tires, and getting my Borla exhaust put on this week. From what I can find looking online it seems like at least the fuel system and cooling system needs to be upgraded. Any advice? TYIA

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Look at companies that sell supercharger kits. Like the Magnuson TVS kits, they have bolt on kits with everything you need to supercharge it. Plus they come with a tune for it.

 

If you plan to supercharge it with some random blower, it's tough to say exactly what else you will need without knowing what you plan to use.

RYLES New Member

RYLES

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It will be a name brand kit. Magnuson, Whipple, etc. I'm just wondering if anything else should be upgraded to make it more effective. I've looked online and seen everything from camshaft to fuel system needs to be upgraded. 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

The TVS1900 kits are bolt on and go. If you want to run more boost, then you need more fuel. That's where larger fuel injectors and a bigger high pressure fuel pump come into play. The stock camshaft does not need to be changed, again that is only if you want to make a lot more power or need a larger fuel lobe on the camshaft to support higher fuel requirements.

 

Anything other than what those kits offer will require custom tuning. The tune you get from Magnuson will no longer work and will require a shop to do the tuning. Tons of people on other forums that I frequent are running the out of the box blower and tune for years without any problems at all.

 

Custom tuning is still helpful because the transmissions really like to be tuned and they become the weak point with more power. The stock torque converters are pretty much junk unless it's been replaced already. The transmissions need to have the thermostat removed or have the updated GM lower thermostat installed to keep temps lower and save the fluid life. A stock 6L80e can handle 500hp easy, just can't abuse it and do dumb stuff like 6-2 power downshifts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...