Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I think I've determined I have AAM axles based on the covers and housing designs. The RPO qr code doesn't list the axle RPO's other than GU5 (3.23). Rockauto seems to indicate the correct oil should be 75w85 AcDelco High Efficiency 10-4091 for SU4/SU7 AAM axles. This is a GL5 oil, whereas the oil listed for "Supplier B" (GM) is part 10-4122 AcDelco Dexron LV, which is a GL4 lubricant.


This is for a 2025 1500 LT Trail Boss.

 

Do I need any LSD additive for the rear? I have G80 but I don't know if that includes "limited slip" or if it's just an inertia locker.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Atlas said:

I think I've determined I have AAM axles based on the covers and housing designs. The RPO qr code doesn't list the axle RPO's other than GU5 (3.23). Rockauto seems to indicate the correct oil should be 75w85 AcDelco High Efficiency 10-4091 for SU4/SU7 AAM axles. This is a GL5 oil, whereas the oil listed for "Supplier B" (GM) is part 10-4122 AcDelco Dexron LV, which is a GL4 lubricant.


This is for a 2025 1500 LT Trail Boss.

 

Do I need any LSD additive for the rear? I have G80 but I don't know if that includes "limited slip" or if it's just an inertia locker.

 

 

3.0 diesel?  LZ0 3.0 Duramax only uses one rear axle, the 9.75" AAM supplied axle RPO code SU7.  Correct gear oil will be p/n 19300457/10-4091 75w85 high efficiency.  Do not add any additives to the fluid.  

 

Eaton G80 locking diff is a mechanical inertia locker.  

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

3.0 diesel?  LZ0 3.0 Duramax only uses one rear axle, the 9.75" AAM supplied axle RPO code SU7.  Correct gear oil will be p/n 19300457/10-4091 75w85 high efficiency.  Do not add any additives to the fluid.  

 

Eaton G80 locking diff is a mechanical locker.  

 

3.0 diesel/LZ0, correct. Would it also follow that AAM supplied the front axle? Based on pictures I'm pretty sure it's AAM. Same fluid spec?

 

3-ish quarts for the rear, and 2-ish for the front?

Edited by Atlas
Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, Atlas said:

 

3.0 diesel/LZ0, correct. Would it also follow that AAM supplied the front axle? Based on pictures I'm pretty sure it's AAM. Same fluid spec?

 

 

If the front is also AAM, yes same fluid.  You'd have to run the VIN at the dealer to make sure what front axle it has.  SU4 is AAM, SU5 is GM.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
2 hours ago, SilveradoRST said:

Are you planning to remove the front diff cover to drain or use a pump to drain it?   

 

I'd like to pull the covers to have a look, but I haven't gotten the truck up on a lift to really look at things yet.

Posted
1 hour ago, Atlas said:

 

I'd like to pull the covers to have a look, but I haven't gotten the truck up on a lift to really look at things yet.

Come back and let us know.  I’ve watched a few YT videos, some say they can’t get the cover off because the space is too tight.  Others were able to get it off but one guy wasn’t able to get a torque wrench on one bolts, no biggie.  

Posted

Front cover takes some work to get off and you'll need a gasket as its not reusable, if you have it on a lift it'll help. Just hope most all of the gasket comes off with the cover as its not the easiest to scrape off, not sure what was used when they installed it.

  • Like 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, Grover67 said:

Front cover takes some work to get off and you'll need a gasket as its not reusable, if you have it on a lift it'll help. Just hope most all of the gasket comes off with the cover as its not the easiest to scrape off, not sure what was used when they installed it.

How bad would it be if I didn’t take the cover off and just use a pump to drain the front?   I know there’s a magnet on the cover that ideally should get cleaned.  

Posted

I ordered some stuff with GM points that landed at the dealer today (wheel liners...can't believe they are 'optional' these days) and decided to ask for the official oil spec on the differentials. I do have the AAM axles according to my VIN, and the spec is 75w85 synthetic GL5, ACDelco part 10-4091 for the 1-quart bottles. The more you know.

 

Next...to get it on a lift and look at access for the front diff cover. I won't need to swap the oil for a while but will order up a gasket or two to keep on hand for when I do.

Posted (edited)

 

 

Edited by Z45
  • Like 5
Posted
20 hours ago, SilveradoRST said:

How bad would it be if I didn’t take the cover off and just use a pump to drain the front?   I know there’s a magnet on the cover that ideally should get cleaned.  

 

Its stil going to be pretty tight getting a hose down into the bottom. The vid Z45 posted is pretty much what you're up against. Live I mentioned before about if you do it on a lift it'll be a little easier to work around than doing it off the floor, and yes it would be better to clean it out fully. It will also depend on how many miles you have on it and how much you've used 4WD. Mine was pretty clean when I changed it around 30k

Posted

One tip.  Make sure you can remove the fill plugs before draining.  I have seen it happen where the fill plug was extremely difficult to remove especially with aluminum cases,  

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,138 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...