Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

I have a 2015 Sierra truck with ~130k. Today, two things happened. 1) The temp gauge stopped working 2) The engine fans come on after I shut the engine off and remain on for 3-4 minutes. It's only 50 degrees outside. I've never heard these fans come on in the heat of the summer.

 

I assume these two things are somehow related, being they both started occurring at the same time.

 

The heater works as it always has. It puts out heat...but not as much as other vehicles I have owned.

 

Any ideas what is going on?

 

Thanks.

Posted
1 hour ago, fishnaked said:

Hi,

 

I have a 2015 Sierra truck with ~130k. Today, two things happened. 1) The temp gauge stopped working 2) The engine fans come on after I shut the engine off and remain on for 3-4 minutes. It's only 50 degrees outside. I've never heard these fans come on in the heat of the summer.

 

I assume these two things are somehow related, being they both started occurring at the same time.

 

The heater works as it always has. It puts out heat...but not as much as other vehicles I have owned.

 

Any ideas what is going on?

 

Thanks.

If you have never changed your thermostat, replace it with an OEM version, best place to start.

  • Like 1
Posted

When the thermostat on my 2016 failed 3 years ago and was sticking open, I noticed that the temp gauge would not go all the way to the 210 mark in the winter and although there was some heat, it wasn't what it should be. I first replaced it with a Motorrad aftermarket thermostat and within months, that failed and want opening all the way. I switched to a GM thermostat and haven't had any trouble since. So I agree with the above posted comment by @JimCost2014. But I also went with a 194⁰ GM thermostat instead of the stock 207⁰ one because I do occasionally tow and wanted to give the system to start getting the benefits of the radiator sooner. But if your temp gauge isn't moving at all then @CamGTP has the answer you need.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So I just had this issue. Fans on High, no movement of the temp gauge on the dash. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor, no change. Replaced thermostat, no change. Interesting note; the engine temp could be read via data stream on the code reader, but the needle on the dash gauge never moved. Checked with code reader again, P0128 as expected. Attempted to clear codes and noticed that my scan tool read "erase command rejected". I have never seen a request rejected before. Went with the sure fire way to clear codes, disconnect the negative battery cable, wait, then reconnect. Verified that no codes were present with one more read before starting up. Everything worked after the hard reset. Temp gauge worked and agreed with what I was seeing on the scan tool and the fans were not running any more. Be sure to clear your fault codes to make the sensor/thermostat fix actually work.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/9/2026 at 3:48 PM, Eric G said:

So I just had this issue. Fans on High, no movement of the temp gauge on the dash. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor, no change. Replaced thermostat, no change. Interesting note; the engine temp could be read via data stream on the code reader, but the needle on the dash gauge never moved. Checked with code reader again, P0128 as expected. Attempted to clear codes and noticed that my scan tool read "erase command rejected". I have never seen a request rejected before. Went with the sure fire way to clear codes, disconnect the negative battery cable, wait, then reconnect. Verified that no codes were present with one more read before starting up. Everything worked after the hard reset. Temp gauge worked and agreed with what I was seeing on the scan tool and the fans were not running any more. Be sure to clear your fault codes to make the sensor/thermostat fix actually work.

Just did this on my 2016 Yukon Denali, I had to disconnect the battery to reset it as well. I didn't replace the thermostat - just the sensor.

  • Like 2
Posted

I had this happen to my '14 Silverado with 89000 miles on it a couple of weeks ago.  I shut it off in my garage, but the fans kept running, so I undid the negative battery cable and the fans stopped.  I watched a few YouTube videos which recommended changing both the thermostat and temperature sensor.  I thought about doing the job myself, but I was sitting my granddaughter who couldn't walk due to an ankle injury.  A local shop wanted nearly $800 to do the job.  That sounded ridiculous so I followed the videos and did it myself in just an hour with cleaning up and wiping down the tools.  I did disconnect the battery's negative cable before starting the job.  The truck runs perfectly now!

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/18/2026 at 1:33 PM, Northside said:

which recommended changing both the thermostat

Why? If it isn't broke... I've had exactly one fail across my and my family/acquaintances entire fleet in the last 40+ years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • We want you to have full confidence in your Silverado, @ceeemcgeee. Safety is our utmost priority, and we understand your concern after this experience. We would like to provide an added layer of assistance between you and your dealer as we pursue the resolutions of your transmission concerns. When you have a moment, we would like to learn more about your experience so we may explore the best path of assistance moving forward. Please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately.
    • Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and sells plug-in AFM/DFM disablers.   Before you spend a dime with us — or with anyone — try the AFM disabler GM already built into your truck. It's the shifter, and it's free. ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip the M5 method if: Most of your miles are highway — M5 locks out 6th gear, so you cruise at higher RPM and burn more fuel You already know you'll forget — it only works if you do it every single drive Your lifters are already ticking — nothing that switches AFM off repairs existing damage You already run a tune or disabler — this would be doing the same job twice ✅ Worth trying if: You want AFM off today, for exactly $0 You want to test-drive V8-only life before buying anything Your driving is mostly town and short trips, where 6th gear barely matters Your truck is leased or under warranty and you won't touch the ECM — this is zero hardware, zero software 💡 The whole trick, in one paragraph Owners across GM forums keep reporting the same pattern: put the transmission in manual / range-select mode, pick M5 or lower, and AFM never activates — the truck stays in V8 the whole drive. Bump it up to M6 and V4 mode comes right back. Two of the cleaner threads on it are here and here. GM has never documented this behavior, so file it under "strong owner consensus," not gospel. The good news: it takes exactly one drive to verify on your own truck. Steps below. What "free" actually costs Effort, every drive. It's a routine, not a setting. Shift to M, tap up to 5, every time you get in. There is no set-and-forget here. 6th gear. When GM shipped trucks with AFM/DFM switched off during the 2021 chip shortage, its own estimate of the penalty was about 1 MPG — and those trucks kept every gear. In M5 you're also giving up overdrive, so expect the highway hit to be bigger than that. Patience. One Tahoe owner ran the L5 routine for two months, then got tired of it and bought a plug-in disabler — he had an extended warranty, so flashing a tune was off the table. That's not a knock on the method. That's just what month two feels like.   I put together the full instructions, limitations, and links to the original owner discussions here: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/how-to-disable-afm-for-free-the-m5-method
    • Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and we sell AFM/DFM disablers. We wrote this because not every GM owner actually needs one. In some cases, regular maintenance, towing use, an existing tune, or simply using M5 makes another device unnecessary.   ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip it if… You keep the oil full and change it every ~5,000 miles. Your risk is already low. You're happy shifting into M5 every drive. That disables AFM for free. Your truck tows heavy most days. AFM barely runs under load. You already run a tune or delete kit. Done is done. It's already ticking or misfiring. You need a mechanic, not a plug-in. ✅ Worth it if… You bought it used and the oil history is a mystery. Checking the dipstick is… not your hobby. (No judgment.) You're a long-term keeper with lots of easy highway miles — exactly when AFM runs most. The V4 drone and shudder drive you nuts. You're under warranty, so a tune is off the table.   The full article includes the supporting GM bulletins and owner reports: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler
    • It`s magnetic so it`s not main or rod bearings. I would pop off a valve cover or 2 and take a good look at the rocker arms. See if you can see if any needle bearings are coming apart.
    • Hey yall.   I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2wd. I just did my own oil change (currently 132,000 miles) on the truck for the first time since I got it. It has always had routine maintenance done at the correct time. Never once had a check engine light, oil pressure light, or any light (except low fuel lol). Also never towed anything ever. It has been a daily driver for me.   I noticed the dipstick has metal shavings magnetized to the end of it. And even after wiping it and putting it back in like 12 times, it still pulls some out. The oil filter also has a good amount in it.  It has always ran perfect and still does. Never ever had a weird noise or knocking or ever ran rough. Almost too perfect lol. So this metal has really surprised me. I see some similar stories where people say this is normal wear, others say your engine is cooked. I know it’s hard to say for sure without seeing in person but just wanna see if anyone has had a similar experience at this mileage or any advice?   Thank you in advance.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...