Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 hours ago, KARNUT said:

I was just passing on information from a supposedly knowledgeable source.

Does anyone know what corrective measures were taken?

Posted
8 minutes ago, asilverblazer said:

Does anyone know what corrective measures were taken?

That person said yes. I can research any model from any manufacturer. They all have model years that have flaws or failures. Some extend warranties. Some try to ignore hope people would grow tired and move on. The choices are buy new extend the warranty. Research 5 year old vehicles see who has the least complaints. I’ve done both. I had one failure warranty covered it.

Posted

Ok Guys, got the truck back today with the new long block, seems to be running fine “no knocks”! The truck only has 7k original warranty left and dealer told me that’s all the warranty the new engine will have on it that’s Bull ******! But he stuck to it so let’s hope this one doesn’t stack rod bearings in the future! At least it still has the original 5 year 60k power train warranty which should cover anything that oil touches in the block per dealer.

  • Like 2
Posted

All new GM engines and parts normally come with a 3 yr 36,000-mile warranty, that's part of what we are paying for. 

Posted
3 hours ago, MORSNO said:

All new GM engines and parts normally come with a 3 yr 36,000-mile warranty, that's part of what we are paying for. 

Dealers are least knowledgeable about the warranty on their parts.

 

Call any dealer and ask about the lifetime warranty on your Denali shocks.

 

The level of ignorance and lies that will follow will amaze you.

image.thumb.png.475519df1ec642d31247c507841c63e4.png

 

No wonder so many people HATE going to dealers. The dealer model is beyond dead - why any company (GM) would allow a third party between them and their customers is beyond baffling. Bad experience at the dealer = no GM products sold. 

 

This one part example above has convinced me I know more (or have access to the same information) than every GM dealer in the greater OKC metro area. 

 

They must be so used to talking to so many other ignorant consumers that I think even they begin to believe the absolute garbage they spout off. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, MORSNO said:

All new GM engines and parts normally come with a 3 yr 36,000-mile warranty, that's part of what we are paying for. 

 

 

Replacement engines are 3yr/100k outside of factory warranty.  If replaced under powertrain, it only carries the remainder of the powertrain warranty.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, asilverblazer said:

Dealers are least knowledgeable about the warranty on their parts.

 

Call any dealer and ask about the lifetime warranty on your Denali shocks.

 

The level of ignorance and lies that will follow will amaze you.

 

 

 

 

The "limited lifetime" warranty would be on REPLACEMENT shocks ONLY.  That warranty does not apply to bumper-to-bumper timeframe, nor does it apply to the original factory installed shocks when out of B2B.  

 

 

warranty.thumb.png.84239ca5556d79074682cd2f2df6cebb.png

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, James McArthur said:

Ok Guys, got the truck back today with the new long block, seems to be running fine “no knocks”! The truck only has 7k original warranty left and dealer told me that’s all the warranty the new engine will have on it that’s Bull ******! But he stuck to it so let’s hope this one doesn’t stack rod bearings in the future! At least it still has the original 5 year 60k power train warranty which should cover anything that oil touches in the block per dealer.

 

 

That is indeed correct. 

 

If the engine is replaced under 5yr/60k powertrain timeframe, it only carries warranty for the remainder of that time. 

 

When replaced outside of warranty, aka customer pay, its 3yr/100k parts and labor on the engine.  

Edited by newdude
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, James McArthur said:

Ok Guys, got the truck back today with the new long block, seems to be running fine “no knocks”! The truck only has 7k original warranty left and dealer told me that’s all the warranty the new engine will have on it that’s Bull ******! But he stuck to it so let’s hope this one doesn’t stack rod bearings in the future! At least it still has the original 5 year 60k power train warranty which should cover anything that oil touches in the block per dealer.

 

I personally would suggest you do a couple of short interval engine oil changes, be that a 500+ mile initial and then put a 1000+ miles on the following oil change just to give the engine a good start in life, getting the high count of fine metal that does pass through the filter out of the engine along with the bits of sealant that come out with the break in oil I will call it. That would be up to you if you want to have that done at the dealer, that shows your trying to do your part and given the failed engine on record. Also if you are planning on selling the truck at some point and its to a gearhead, you have proof you don't have a lax attitude or mind spending that extra on maintenance. Thought I'd mention the idea anyway. 

Edited by Chuck FB
Posted
23 hours ago, newdude said:

If the engine is replaced under 5yr/60k powertrain timeframe, it only carries warranty for the remainder of that time. 

 

When replaced outside of warranty, aka customer pay, its 3yr/100k parts and labor on the engine.  

gm - genius.

 

The warranty on the part is based solely on who pays for it - when it is the EXACT SAME part.

 

Let's make the warranty experience as awful as possible for our customers, that will build brand loyalty!

 

Shareholder value today, no customers tomorrow, bankrupt next week.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, asilverblazer said:

gm - genius.

 

The warranty on the part is based solely on who pays for it - when it is the EXACT SAME part.

 

Let's make the warranty experience as awful as possible for our customers, that will build brand loyalty!

 

Shareholder value today, no customers tomorrow, bankrupt next week.

 

 

 

Ford does a similar thing.  Replaced under factory warranty timeframe the new engine gets 12/12, when customer pay its 3 year/unlimited miles.  

 

If they warrantied everything for long periods of time, the costs would skyrocket to the consumers.  

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted
20 hours ago, newdude said:

If they warrantied everything for long periods of time, the costs would skyrocket to the consumers.  

Same part = same warranty. If making the change to do so results in the cost skyrocketing it was a lousy part in the first place.

 

I recently bought a temperature sensor for the Yukon.

AC/Delco, GM $40 with a 2 year warranty

Duralast $23 with a lifetime warranty

 

Guess which one I bought.

 

Squeezing out a customer today might save GM a little now, but no customers tomorrow will cost them more. They will eventually run out of 'loyal' customers to squeeze. 

 

Where are the new customers coming from anyways (another manufacturer they had a bad experience with)?

 

:sigh: A race to the bottom of who is the least awful to deal with.

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

Where are the new customers coming from anyways (another manufacturer they had a bad experience with)?

 

:sigh: A race to the bottom of who is the least awful to deal with.

 

There may be more truth than you know in that statement.  I've purchased nothing but Chev/GMC trucks my entire life and never thought I'd even consider another brand seriously.  Right now, If I was going to replace my truck, it would be a Ford Super Duty with the 7.3 Godzilla.  This has been my receiver cap since 1988, todays GM trucks may change that. 

 

Hitch.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...