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Cost of a brake job.

GN2018
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GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

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My '21 Denali needs brakes.  It's at the dealer because I thought the brake indicator sensor was bad and it's under warranty.  I'll go look in the morning, but they said it's just the brakes and quoted $926 for the front and $786 for the rear (rotors and pads).  For a total of $1700.  With a discount from Costco I'll get that closer to $1450.  I'm sure that's expensive but of course, nothing is cheap and there's no way I'm doing it myself.  So I'm asking how outrageous that price is?  I'm not going to bother going and getting the truck and finding a good mechanic (I don't currently have one because I've been driving new so long) for a couple hundred but much more than that and I'll have to consider it.  What's a good price for a complete brake job?  Also, they quoted $210 for a brake system flush, which according to the manual (severe service) should be done every 5 years.  So, I guess that should be done too.  Looking for some advice.  TIA 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

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Seems a bit high for dealer rate but every dealer has different labor rates. My local dealer uses a lower hourly rate for service work like brake jobs, some suspension and other odds and ends. It's like $50 less per hour compared to the regular shop rate which is over $200 now.

 

Smaller independent and chain stores around me are less per hour labor rates. Ranging from around 150-190 a hour. So they will always be cheaper than a dealer. From what I see and being in the parts business I hear brake jobs are ranging from $500-700 for trucks now. For a rough example, a local shop is buying the higher end rotors and pads for about $150-200 total, then you double it for re-sale, plus the labor. This is non-dealer parts I'm talking about.

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GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

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3 minutes ago, liber said:

Honestly, the dealer's price seems high, but not completely out of line for a 2021 Denali with a complete front and rear brake rotor and pad replacement. At a good independent garage, many people would pay between $900 and $1,300 for the same job with quality parts. So at $1,700, you're clearly paying the "dealer tax."

Thanks for the input with actual numbers.  I didn't do too bad because I had the Costco discount of 15% so it ended up costing me closer to $1,400.  I also talked him down just a little so ended up spending $2,100 (including taxes) for the brakes, brake fluid change, fluid change for the transaxle and the front differential.  I already had the transmission done so I'm up to date on my 45K miles / 5 year services using the severe schedule in the owners manual.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, GN2018 said:

Thanks for the input with actual numbers.  I didn't do too bad because I had the Costco discount of 15% so it ended up costing me closer to $1,400.  I also talked him down just a little so ended up spending $2,100 (including taxes) for the brakes, brake fluid change, fluid change for the transaxle and the front differential.  I already had the transmission done so I'm up to date on my 45K miles / 5 year services using the severe schedule in the owners manual.

 

Wait! So you had $2100 worth of brake work and a fluid swap done at 45K? I'm at 192K and on the OEM brakes with more than half left! :wtf:

 

Look, I just had a water heater replaced that cost me over $2K and I felt a fool. As it turns out, I was. I feel your pain. 

 

The plumber that did the actual install under contract from the supplier said had I called him direct I would have paid a thousand less. Live an learn.....learn two things. 

 

Liars and cheats lie and cheat. Do what you've always done and you get what you've always got. Understand? Learn to drive it like it hasn't any brakes and skip about five $2K brake jobs. Or ignore it all and take the beatings you've always taken.

 

Back to the plumber. COVID interrupted supply chains and cost when skyward. Supply chains recovered but the greedy hoped you didn't notice the 30% reduction in your buying power. The honest did. Find the honest ones. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted

unfortunately Grumpy the 2019 and newer are not like your 2105 or my 2014 which i went 160k before it needed brakes. my 2020 was at the dealership when i was at 58k for warranty work and they said i needed rear brakes and i thought no way. i pulled my wheels and they were right, rear inner pads were worn down to nothing and the outer pad was at 50 %. the fronts were fine. for some reason the 2019 and newer like to eat rear brakes. i replaced the rear rotors and pads with aftermarket parts and 30k later i had to do the rear rotors again at 90k. so i bit the bullet and went oem and replaced everything front and rear. i am now at 135k and the brakes are wearing the way i expected from the start. 45k and the brakes are still at 80 percent all around, don't know why they are wearing good now

Homer1959 Enthusiast

Homer1959

Posted
Posted

Quick question: do you need a special tool or scanner to replace the front or rear pad, since the 2025 model has some kind of wear detector? Obviously Its not that I need to do the job now but Im curious to know

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, Homer1959 said:

Quick question: do you need a special tool or scanner to replace the front or rear pad, since the 2025 model has some kind of wear detector? Obviously Its not that I need to do the job now but Im curious to know

 

 

1500s you do.  You have to retract the parking brake which can be done with a scan tool, or via a procedure with the parking brake button/switch on the dash.  

 

Also.  Disconnecting the negative battery cable is a MUST on the 1500s as if you don't, all sorts of errors and warnings will trigger.

 

HDs do not need any sort of procedure as the parking brake is separate from the caliper.  So only servicing the parking brake would require a special procedure.  

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GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

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10 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Wait! So you had $2100 worth of brake work and a fluid swap done at 45K? I'm at 192K and on the OEM brakes with more than half left! :wtf:

 

 

I've owned my truck for Just over five years.  I put new tires on it (earlier than needed), I've changed the oil and filters ahead of schedule and now I just completed the fluid changes recommended using the severe maintenance schedule in the manual.  It always hurts to spend $2,100 but I'm doing everything I can to keep this truck in good repair.  For one, that's just my nature.  Second, is that I loan it to my daughter to pull a small camper when her family (grandkids) go camping.  Given the cost of a new truck, or any vehicle for that matter, $2,100 is a small price to pay for reliable transportation that also provides good utility from time to time.  All tolled, I've spent $4,500 on maintenance - so less than a $100 per month and less than 10 cents per mile.  That seems reasonable.  I wish I had the tools and ability to do things like the brakes, but those days are gone.  I did all the work on my cars in my teens through my 30's.  Then I got a job with a car stipend, leased cars, and never had to even think about repairs.  However, in retirement (8 years), I now own my vehicles and I'll have to pay to get things done.  I think the best thing I could do now is find a good independent mechanic so I don't have to rely on the dealer.

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Homer1959 Enthusiast

Homer1959

Posted
Posted
On 5/16/2026 at 9:08 AM, newdude said:

 

 

1500s you do.  You have to retract the parking brake which can be done with a scan tool, or via a procedure with the parking brake button/switch on the dash.  

 

Also.  Disconnecting the negative battery cable is a MUST on the 1500s as if you don't, all sorts of errors and warnings will trigger.

 

HDs do not need any sort of procedure as the parking brake is separate from the caliper.  So only servicing the parking brake would require a special procedure.  

Thanks !! 

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its the OEM dealer, what do you expect? Discount Prices?   That's almost exactly what I paid on my 2021 Sierra Denali.  Other shops were somewhat cheaper, those that would put estimate in writing.  But they did not leave a sense of competence in my view and did not use GM parts, whatever was locally available at parts store.  Did not like that feeling so I paid the GM price, which included a loaner for the day that other shops would not.  

 

btw - Mine rotors were all corroded from road salt and I was 3 months past the bumper-bumper warranty so they could not get it covered by  warranty.

Edited by Z45
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