Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys, after my first post  "Shopping for a new truck and have some questions" I have decide to get the 10 speed truck instead of the older 6 speed. With that being said I have another question. 

Should I buy a new truck or one a year or so old with 20-30k miles. I have been told as long as it has had good service records and the transmission had been serviced that would be the way to go and save myself the initial depreciation hit. What is the best way to go. 

 

Thanks 

Gary

 

Posted (edited)

like your question, i have beenbuying used for the last 15 years just because i put almost 40k a year on. so a 5 year old truck at 200 or 230 k is the same price. you dont give up the first year big hit

Edited by silveradosid
Posted

Hi Gary, I guess it all boils down to personal preference and what you can afford. I, personally, buy new because I will know from day one how the vehicle is maintained and driven. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I prefer new, but not without a deal. Historically I've bought severely aged new inventory, leftover model year, unpopular configuration kind of stuff that sits around on dealer lots until they just want it gone. $10k off MSRP kind of stuff on a mid-priced truck. That really, really helps knock down that first year depreciation. It also requires being somewhat flexible on colors and options. I wouldn't buy a 4 cylinder if I was looking for an 8 cylinder, but if I got blue paint instead of black, or a great deal was lacking a minor option, I'm willing to overlook those things for savings.

 

Used <> used. Condition and history are everything. If I'm buying used I'm looking for cream of the crop. The truck from the guy who religiously pampers it, and then decides a year later he wants newer and nicer. NOT the ex-rental vehicle, or the crew cab traded in by the family with 7 kids who like to throw food, and the oil only got changed when there was time long after the oil life monitor started alerting.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Atlas said:

I prefer new, but not without a deal. Historically I've bought severely aged new inventory, leftover model year, unpopular configuration kind of stuff that sits around on dealer lots until they just want it gone. $10k off MSRP kind of stuff on a mid-priced truck. That really, really helps knock down that first year depreciation. It also requires being somewhat flexible on colors and options. I wouldn't buy a 4 cylinder if I was looking for an 8 cylinder, but if I got blue paint instead of black, or a great deal was lacking a minor option, I'm willing to overlook those things for savings.

 

Used <> used. Condition and history are everything. If I'm buying used I'm looking for cream of the crop. The truck from the guy who religiously pampers it, and then decides a year later he wants newer and nicer. NOT the ex-rental vehicle, or the crew cab traded in by the family with 7 kids who like to throw food, and the oil only got changed when there was time long after the oil life monitor started alerting.

WOW, something we agreed on. I only bought at sticker twice. A 94 impala ss and an Acura intagra type r. Made money on the first. Still have the second.

Posted

Certainly as the new model year comes along and that may mean a new refreshed model such as for example the upcoming 2027 half tons and lets just say for arguments sake that current year trucks are in decent supply on the new lot and its not guaranteed but some years and depending on the current economic state that buyers may turn their nose up at the so called old stock/old model and want the "new new" shiny object. When those stars align and in this case GM corporate puts out a great discount on what is becoming the old stock as well as dealers willing to deal to get that inventory off the lot, that's when it would be easier to deal as long as, as it was pointed out that your willing to take what is there for choice of inventory in an area that makes sense to you shopping wise. What you don't get deals on or typically so is the incoming new toy in the showroom, that is where if they don't have much inventory of the new model year and customers that are willing to pay to beat the Joneses and will pay top dollar for it just because. Also sometimes there is that vehicle that few are interested in for whatever reason in how its equipped that becomes two years old and they really want to get rid of that vehicle. New in all cases and warranty the same typically although plan on changing that battery out on the older used one, lot rot of batteries with todays vehicles that draw power constantly. 

 

I too was just too leery about buying a newer used truck as I know how all too many seem to treat their vehicle maintenance wise and up here in Canada there wasn't the used market to choose from like one would assume because of all the bull crap going on with under a year old trucks and under certain mileage being bought up by USA brokers and being hauled/driven south to be sold in the sates so the used price was too demanding here. Also a certain insurance coverage I wanted was only available on a new truck at time of purchase and not even a so called new demo on a lot could have that no depreciation loss coverage. I made the best deal I could on a truck I personally chose for options on an order so they knew it was most likely sold before it ever hit their lot so no lot interest charges for the dealer to swallow. I also wanted a new vehicle so that I could plaster the crap out of it underneath with fluid film and see if that will help slow down the rust issues we have here due to the crap they spread on the winter roads. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • HD at the moment, are kinda their own deal.  How LTZ sells on those vs on 1500, there is a difference.   They are merging most of the mid trims on 1500.  LT, RST and LTZ are replaced by one trim, Silverado.  LT and RST are a BIG portion of sales.    Bad naming choice aside, the new Silverado trim will offer the spread of options that those three trims offered.  So expect to see things like the tech package for example, and memory seats.  And LT Trail Boss will now just be "Trail Boss" (formerly LT Trail Boss) but will offer content spread like the new Silverado trim will.  The press photos showed the Trail Boss (formerly LT Trail Boss) has access to Super Cruise now, which on the current truck was High Country only.       Here is the Trail Boss interior.  Memory seats and Super Cruise are present.  All things the LT Trail Boss it replaces, and the RST it was based on didn't get on the current gen.  You had to go to LTZ or ZR2 for memory seats, and High Country for Super Cruise.      
    • I installed a Hellwig rear sway bar on my 21 Sierra SLT, it made a huge difference on how the truck handles, no body roll, the trucks much more planted now. Not sure of the suspension differences between the 21 and 26,  if its body roll your having a sway bar will solve it. 
    • So a follow up and my fix. I found in online searches the live data to look at on a scan tool to verify the fuel tank pressure sensor was working.  It showed an spec number towards the lower end of the rang, but in spec.  Then while it was running opened the gas cap and the pressure should change.  It didn't change even a tiny bit.  The data for the purge valve said it was open...never changed. So then I measured the voltages on the plug for the fuel pressure sensor and they matched what it should be.  So local car quest parts had the sensor in stock...it was a bit of a pain to remove and an even bigger one to get it to actually go back in.  It helped to unbolt the driveshaft and bungie cord away from the gas tank to give a bit more room to work. So fuel tank pressure sensor in I cleared the code, and started it up.  I went to the scan tool's live data and... Eureka! The pressure number was different and fluctuated a bit.  So took it on a short drive and pressure number varied saw the purge valve go from closed to open and back to closed.  Drove it to and from work for roughly a week plugged in the scan tool no codes.  I took it in to get tested and passed.  In my state's infinite wisdom (oops meant greed), since I pushed the test with the maximum extensions I have to take it back in by Feb '27 to 'get it back up to date', then my next test won't be until Feb '29. 
    • Any grease on the stud threads of any kind?   Wheel studs should have NOTHING on them for proper torquing and so the nuts don't back off.     Are all of the mating surfaces clean?  So wheel, rotor and hub?     We've had plenty of trucks at work with that wheel, this is a first to me.  Makes me think they've got a lube tech putting anti-seize on all the wheel studs or some kind of grease, and they need to stop doing that.  To have 11 other trucks with the same exact problem.      
    • I was a Chevy guy for years, then switched to GMC because I liked the looks better.  I'm actually thinking I like the Chevy looks better than GMC for the first time in a lot of years.   One thing I know for certain, the new GMC dash is hideous!  Chevy wins this one!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...