Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything.

Parts replaced so far:

Cam sensor

Crank sensor

Cam phaser valve

Cam phaser solenoid

Fuel pump

Maf

1 injector

Pcm

Pdm

 

So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon

Posted

Forgot to mention that this started after changing the oil I use mobile 1 full syn with mobile one filter but I did add pro lube additive and was the first time doing so and is making me wonder just can't see why that would matter

Posted

Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.

 

Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.

 

If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.

 

If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.

 

If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.

Posted
15 hours ago, xdieselmechanic said:

...no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injector and same issue... Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck.

Are ALL injectors losing ground or just #7. Sounds like a wiring problem to me.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

Are ALL injectors losing ground or just #7. Sounds like a wiring problem to me.

All injectors are loosing the ground side from the pcm even with all injectors unplugg there is still.no ground pulse on any injector

Posted (edited)

PCM powers and grounds - EVERY one of them has to be good. Since PCM replacement didn't fix it, then all of these need to be good, AND the ground from the computer to the injectors needs to be checked end-to-end.

 

I use halogen headlight bulbs to test powers and grounds. Puts a decent load on the wiring. If they can light up that, then they'll run what they need to run.

 

If you can get the computer to ground and light the bulb using a short jumper, then the wire is bad to the injectors.

 

Also make sure a pin didn't get bent over when plugging the computer connectors back in, and that the female terminal puts enough tension on the male terminal to achieve continuity AND the ability to carry a load.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

computer pulses the injectors by connecting them to ground (at least on the trucks), so they get constant power...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...