Jump to content

brake problems,,, HELP


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2001 4X4 Silverado. just turned 42K. replaced the brake pads last week. rear was wore down completely. front was about half, but glazed and cracked. after I installed the new pads. I put about 200 miles on it over the weekend. no problems at all. Yesterday while driving home, the truck kept getting slower and slower. the front brakes were dragging. the more I drove the more they dragged. I had it towed home. It was definitely the front brakes dragging.. they were HOT. a few hrs later when I had time to work on it. I jacked the front end up. and the tires spun freely.. I'm stumped... I drove the truck today for 4 miles.. the front brakes felt warmer than the back. probably gonna start again.. any ideas?

Posted
I have a 2001 4X4 Silverado. just turned 42K.  replaced the brake pads last week. rear was wore down completely. front was about half, but glazed and cracked. after I installed the new pads. I put about 200 miles on it over the weekend. no problems at all. Yesterday while driving home, the truck kept getting slower and slower. the front brakes were dragging. the more I drove the more they dragged. I had it towed home. It was definitely the front brakes dragging.. they were HOT. a few hrs later when I had time to work on it. I jacked the front end up. and the tires spun freely.. I'm stumped... I drove the truck today for 4 miles.. the front brakes felt warmer than the back. probably gonna start again.. any ideas?

 

 

 

 

I have 73,000 on my truck and the brakes are still fine. You may have another problem thats causing premature pad wear. I'd take to dealer. One thing you don't want to have problems with is breaks.

Posted

Grease the caliper slides if you didn't when you changed the pads. They can go dry and stick causing a similar situation. Also double check rotor mounting surface and ensure proper torquing of lug nuts.

 

Good luck.

Posted

You could also have a problem with your caliper pistons getting caught up in their bores. You didnt force them back into the caliper at any wierd angle during the brake job did you? I'd check Bish's suggestion's first, the best spots to look first.

Posted
Grease the caliper slides if you didn't when you changed the pads.  They can go dry and stick causing a similar situation.  Also double check rotor mounting surface and ensure proper torquing of lug nuts. 

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

I didn't grease the caliper slides. I'll do that. I didn't torque the lug nuts either. I just read they should be torqued 140 lbs.. sound right?

 

thanks.

Posted
You could also have a problem with your caliper pistons getting caught up in their bores.  You didnt force them back into the caliper at any wierd angle during the brake job did you?  I'd check Bish's suggestion's first, the best spots to look first.

 

 

 

 

 

I don't think I forced them back in at a weird angle. I opened up the bleeder, used a fairly big socket that will fit inside the piston. and tapped the piston in. did that with both pistons til seated and installed pads.

I put about 50 miles on my truck toady. so far it hasn't done it again..

 

Thanks.

Posted

Grease the caliper slides ? what/where are they? I'm going to be doing a brake job on my 2001 Sierra 4wd in a couple of days and when I saw these posts, this issue of caliper slides stumped me. A picture or where or what these are would be appreciated.

 

Thanks guys/gals.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...