Jump to content

Need Speakers and sub for Bose system

c.schulz

By c.schulz
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

c.schulz Enthusiast

c.schulz

Posted
Posted

OK boys Im looking for good speaker recamendations for my 05 Extended cab GMC. Dont need top of the line but something not to cheap either.Also Id like to add a sub in my centerconsole.Not sure what size I need or equipment for that fact.(nubie) Did I mention this is a Bose sytem?? After all guys Im looking to make good size difference in sound without braking the bank.Please point me in the right direction,Ebay,JP Customs Im open for suggestions. :cheers::bs::seeya::banghead::gmc:

 

Chris

Stocklook Enthusiast

Stocklook

Posted
Posted

From what I have heard about the Bose systems is that to get aftermarket speakers, you will have to change the head unit out, Bose radios DO NOT LIKE aftermarket speakers, something to do with ohm loads, like saying bose only goes with bose.

 

I could be wrong, someone else could chime in and help

ENIGMA206 Enthusiast

ENIGMA206

Posted
Posted

I too have a Bose system in my truck except that it is an '06 CC. I wanted to keep mine as close to stock as possible since I've had 3 stereos stolen in the past. I had heard great things about the Infinity Basslink powered sub. I bought one pretty cheap from Ebay along with the line-out converter. I was very skeptical and did a temporary install so I could easily remove it just in case it didn't perform. I've never been a big fan of powered subs and was sure that this would be no different. Was I ever more wrong? I was blown away by the abilities of this little sub. It is actually the perfect compliment to the Bose system. I have been building systems (mainly Rockford Fosgate) for almost 20 years now and couldn't believe the output. Don't get me wrong though. I'm not saying this thing can outperform a serious competition set-up. But I will say that this thing can rock your world for very little money. I have about $260 tied up in this sub, line converter and wiring kit.

 

I had purchased this sub for a previous truck and never installed it. After getting the crew cab, I was trying to sell the Basslink because I heard that it wouldn't fit in a CC. I tried to sell it to a few of my nephew's buddies, but they didn't want a powered 10" because they felt it wasn't enough. I ended up doing the temporary install due to downtime over the holidays. It brought a smile to my Nephew's face when we fired it up. This setup may not be for everyone, but it is impressive to say the least for such little money. I've tried everything from Blugrass to Rap and haven't found any style of music it can't handle.

c.schulz Enthusiast

c.schulz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Donnie thanks for the great lead. If you have any part numbers or speaker suggestions Id like to hear from you on that also.

Was the amp and sub easy to install?? Did you mount under the centerconsole??

Sent you a message.

Please contact at [email protected]

 

Chris

lerbud Enthusiast

lerbud

Posted
Posted

that is a good way to go. i just added a dual subwoofer box with 10" subs and an amp to my bose and it sounds pretty good. the amp is just running the subs. you just turn down the bass as low as it will go on your bose head unit and it sounds pretty good.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Texas Gasser
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Texas Gasser · Posted

      My truck is a 2024 2500 LT crew cab with the 6.6 gas engine and 10 speed trans.  It has a payload of 3578 lbs.  We pull a 22' Grand Design 17MKE that has dry weight of 5006 lbs. and a gross weight of 6395 lbs.  The trailer weighs about 5800 lbs. when loaded up with all the gear.  I don't fill the water tank for travel as most of our trips are to state parks that are within a day's drive.  Depending on the wind I get anywhere from 7.5 to 9 mpg.  I do use a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and have no problems with sway or being pulled/pushed side to side by 18-wheelers passing by me.  The trailer is about the same length of the truck so that helps a lot.  I say that because we traded in our 33' Grand Design 2670 MK (7800 lbs. loaded with gear) and using the same WDH, it would get pulled side to side by big trucks passing by me. It was not bad, but you needed to stay alert and know when a big truck was pulling up beside you.  I got about 7 to 8 mpg pulling that trailer.  I normally drive about 65 to 67 mph when pulling.  Overall, I love the payload capability of the truck as I doubt I will ever get close to its limit and I love the stability it offers over a half ton truck while pulling a trailer.  I have just over 30000 miles on the truck and have not had any issues.  We live in Texas where it is relatively flat, just windy. 
    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will say though that the 5.00 a gallon for only one fuel stop while on the Number 1, that privilege of driving from the point of Paso Robles ( where I fueled up before crossing to the coast ) and all the way up ... across the Golden Gate where I stopped and walked on the bridge ( and someone jumped off the bridge opposite the side I was on ... never saw it happen but the tow truck/paramedic told me ) and continued on north back onto No 1 and all the way up to where it connects to 101 and also explored some of the Red Woods although had been through some of that before. The fantastic view of that scenic ocean route was most certainly worth the extra dollars I spent on fuel. Just prior to that I had driven through Death Valley and that was some experience in the middle of July, then spent a couple of days in Yosemite and hiked to the top of Half Dome. The summer of 2007 was very memorable for what I saw and experienced in California.
    • AndrewF
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By AndrewF · Posted

      Really depends on what extent the towing is.  Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds?  If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit.  Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull.  Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles.    In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance.  My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind.  But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I think the excitement has run its course. Or, probably need a break from the truck for a few days.   Win some, lose some, again. There was still a coolant weep from the front of the engine. This time it was one of those worm-drive hose clamps on the upper hose connecting to the water neck. There's a reason the factory doesn't use those type of clamps; they suck. The hose is all distorted and flared at the end from someone over-tightening it. The water neck just needed to be cleaned, hose seated, and have a *good* hose clamp put on, if the hose wasn't so mangled.   Thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and try to diagnose the EGR issue. It's likely a failed EGR but before I spent $85 on the part I wanted to make sure ports weren't clogged or the pintle wasn't stuck. It was kind of a bugger to remove with the upper intake installed. Re-install (because I wanted to drive it) proved more difficult.   Per the stack of service paperwork, the EGR has already been replaced 4 times since 1996.   It would reason, then, that the EGR flange on the lower intake manifold has had its share of techs trying to work quickly and maybe one of them seated a bolt slightly cross-threaded at one time. The bolt didn't come out without significant effort and tried as I did, it wouldn't go in without significant effort. And then, the mounting ear on the right side of the EGR (lower intake casting) cracked, and crumbled off. $%&@!!!   I hate everything. Or, at least, I did in that moment. I was pretty calm, considering. This is what older, junky vehicles do. They nickel and dime their owners, piss them off, and things break that shouldn't break because of shoddy design/workmanship, poorly done repairs.   If I want to make it right, I'll need to replace the lower intake manifold and basically re-do everything I spent days doing. At least it should go quicker this time, right?! Looks like a lower intake (used/junk, of course) will run me about $150.   Once I get the new EGR, I'll see if I can bolt it up snug enough to verify proper operation, and if it solves the persistent CEL that sets on decel for EGR flow, I'll know I'm back on the right track. And then I can decide how to proceed.   Also, an idler pulley has given up. It began squeaking in pain on startup. It's clear this truck hasn't been thoroughly driven in a long, long time as things are just letting go and shaking out. I may have given it the beans once or twice to make sure my intake gaskets were doing their job. Flog an old vehicle, expect what it gives in return.    
    • GMC4Zee
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By GMC4Zee · Posted

      Thanks for the info but wow, these are pricey! $100 apiece. A full set of smaller ones can be had for less that the cost of one of these. Gotta be a cheaper option out there but I have yet to find it. I don't want to use grommets as I can see leaking in my future. Now that I am looking at it, I might be able to just get the valve stem and modify the sensor to fit. Looks like I can just modify the hole a bit to adapt.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...