Jump to content

SAE 5W-30 for my 4.8 ltr?

FlaMan

Recommended Posts

FlaMan Enthusiast

FlaMan

Posted
Posted

:cool: I still have 12 qts of Amsoil 10-W30 synthetic oil left over from my 2500HD that I traded in last week. My new truck is a K1500, 4WD with the 4.8 ltr. Oil cap and manual both say to use 5W-30 oil. I called the dealer and the service guy agreed. I told him that I had the 10-W30 left over and he said that it wouldn't actually hurt anything, BUT that GM recommends the 5W-30 for improved mileage. I can't put the synthetic in until my truck reaches 10K anyway, (per Amsoil) but at 15K miles between changes, those 12 quarts wil last me until I have 30K on the truck.

Amsoil will trade me out, oil for oil, BUT will charge me a 20% restocking fee as it has been over one month since I bought it. That's about $15 bucks down the drain. Question: Do I use the 10W-30 or swap it out for the 5W-30? I don't want to hurt the truck, so if everyone agrees to get rid of it, I will! What's everyone think?? Thanks! :D

mdub Enthusiast

mdub

Posted
Posted

If you're in a climate above 50°, your truck won't know the difference. Save your money and use the 10W-30, that's what I run every summer in my 5.3L.

  • 3 weeks later...
obbop Enthusiast

obbop

Posted
Posted

Read an article in Hot Rod magazine about the Generation 3 Vortec engines.

 

It was a lengthy article written by a mechanic-type dude who appeared to know his stuff. Pics of a Vortec torn down, showing various components was included.

 

Ahhhh.... there it is. Knew I saved that article. Here's the part that makes me believe there may be a darn good reason for using 5W-30 and that synthetic oil may be best:

 

"Bearing clearances are tighter than traditional V-8s due to precise manufacturing tolerances, the use of modern thin oils, and aluminum’s high expansion rate as it heats up. Follow factory clearance recommendations, and don’t use heavy or single-weight oils or restrict oil to the top-end."

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted

Don't forget, 10w30 is the same as 5w30 at operating temp; both 30w. The difference is really 5w versus 10w when cold. If you are getting down towards freezing temps, the engine might notice a small difference for a few minutes while it warms up.

 

If it were me, I'd use the 10w30 year round (unless you live in Alaska) until it is gone, then switch to 5w30.

dewfpo Senior Enthusiast

dewfpo

Posted
Posted

I'd use the 10W30 with no worries...

 

The 10 is only a little thicker when starting the engine cold, once heated up it should be very, very similar since you are talking Amsoil to Amsoil and synthetic to synthetic, 30 to 30.

 

You might loose 0.1 mpg.

 

I have read articles as well saying actual bearing clearances aren't any different today than they were 20 years ago.

 

Don't worry at all.

 

DEWFPO

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

I use Amsoil 5 30 just because the owner's manual and Amsoil recommended it. However, with me being in a warm climate, I would have not problem using the 10 30 until it was gone and then switching to 5 30.

 

However, we have some traditional auto parts stores in our market who stock Amsoil. I would check to see if you have anyone who stocks it and see if they would swap it for you if you promised to begin buying your oil and filters from them.

 

Not to hard for me since I work for CARQUEST and I have 2 stores in my area who sell Amsoil.

 

Good luck and have fun with the new truck.

Frozen001 Enthusiast

Frozen001

Posted
Posted

I use 10w30 in my truck year round and notice no real difference when it get cold up here in Central NY... I will tell you this I did run 5w30 my last oil change (that is what GM recommends for the 2500HD also), and I my truck engine did seem noisier than with the 10w30... this was after warm up... maybe it is just me but....

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • asilverblazer
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...