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How to repair rust?


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Posted

I searched and found lots of us have rust, but no how to fix rust...

 

Anyways I have some on the rocker panel below the extended cab window on the very bottom of the rocker panel. I know I will need to sand down to bare metal and apply some rust stopper, then primer, then paint, then clear (or something to that effect). I am no body guy and have never tried anything like this before, but the cost of taking it to a body shop will probably be too much $$$. It is a small area maybe 6" long and 2" tall. I will have to use aresol cans to do it. I know it won't be perfect but I think as smaal an area as this is I can make it look not so noticeable.

 

I know its seven years old, but it has spent its life in a relatively dry non salted area, and I keep it really clean. Seems like I shouldn't have this problem so soon, but I do and whining about it won't stop the rust.

 

Before I go out there and get in over my head anybody have any suggestions, tips, pointers, "Are you nuts"?

Posted

Luckily for me I am going to the body shop tomorrow, so I can get an estimate for that too, some bone head tried accelerating my truck for me, didn't work out so well.

Posted
Luckily for me I am going to the body shop tomorrow, so I can get an estimate for that too, some bone head tried accelerating my truck for me, didn't work out so well.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't a green Isuzu Rodeo involved was there?

Posted

I got news for ya, no body shop is going to guarantee rust repair unless they put on new parts. Once rust starts, it's like uncurable cancer. You can cut out the bad, but there's always more of the original area that is already compromised. THAT I WILL guarantee!

Posted

Welcome to the on-going battle vs. RUST! You are right to get on this problem before it gets any worse. I've got a 72 Chevy K-20 that has rusted through cab corners, cab supports and floor board. All I can do is cut out and weld in new metal.

 

First things first...what caused the rust? Did you have mud flaps on the truck since day 1? If not, you were probably knocking bits of dirt / rock / etc. up on the rockers just by driving. Those will eventually chip away the paint and expose the metal to air...causing rust. You can sand & repaint, but the rock chips will eat right through the paint again and more rust. Picture looks like you have flaps, but if not, get some.

 

Next, you will have to find way to remove rust (sanding, sandblast, wire wheel, etc.). Good body shop will do the work and warranty for a while, but not for very long. If it were my truck and I were planning to keep for a long time, here is what I would do:

 

1. Take to body shop and have them media-blast the area that is rusted and look for other suspect spots that have paint chipped away, etc. Media-blast with something non-sand so will not warp the metal. Body guys will know what to use...

2. Apply one of the rust-encapsulating paints (POR-15, Rust encapsulator, Rust-Mort, etc. Search for more). Careful to follow directions as some can really hurt or even kill you if applied incorrectly.

3. Apply good coat of quality paint. Don't skimp here.

4. Apply good quality clear coat.

5. Keep my eye on this spot for further damage / rust development.

6. Get good mud flaps

 

HOpe this helps.

Posted
Luckily for me I am going to the body shop tomorrow, so I can get an estimate for that too, some bone head tried accelerating my truck for me, didn't work out so well.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't a green Isuzu Rodeo involved was there?

 

 

 

 

 

Nope a F**d Superduty with one of those bumpers taken off one of those 6x6 8ton military trucks... :crackup:

Posted
Welcome to the on-going battle vs. RUST!  You are right to get on this problem before it gets any worse.  I've got a 72 Chevy K-20 that has rusted through cab corners, cab supports and floor board.  All I can do is cut out and weld in new metal. 

 

First things first...what caused the rust?  Did you have mud flaps on the truck since day 1?  If not, you were probably knocking bits of dirt / rock / etc. up on the rockers just by driving.  Those will eventually chip away the paint and expose the metal to air...causing rust.  You can sand & repaint, but the rock chips will eat right through the paint again and more rust.  Picture looks like you have flaps, but if not, get some.

 

Next, you will have to find way to remove rust (sanding, sandblast, wire wheel, etc.).  Good body shop will do the work and warranty for a while, but not for very long.  If it were my truck and I were planning to keep for a long time, here is what I would do:

 

1.  Take to body shop and have them media-blast the area that is rusted and look for other suspect spots that have paint chipped away, etc.  Media-blast with something non-sand so will not warp the metal.  Body guys will know what to use...

2.  Apply one of the rust-encapsulating paints (POR-15, Rust encapsulator, Rust-Mort, etc.  Search for more).  Careful to follow directions as some can really hurt or even kill you if applied incorrectly.

3.  Apply good coat of quality paint.  Don't skimp here.

4.  Apply good quality clear coat.

5.  Keep my eye on this spot for further damage / rust development. 

6.  Get good mud flaps

 

HOpe this helps.

 

 

 

 

I have mud flaps but not from day one, however there are no visible chips to the finish from the outside, the damage is from the inside out. (that seems worse to me) I assume the moisture is coming in around the Extended window area and running down the inside, and not draining out. There is a drain in there, right? It doesn't have a fourth door so the window is really the only source for water to get in. I suppose it could come in from the bottom, but doesn't seem as likely.

 

Another idea I have is sand it all away, 80 grit paper and lots of oomph. Buy a gallon of do it your self bed liner, and do the entire rocker panel. (up to the bottom of the doors, there is a body line there that would make a nice breaking point.) I like this idea because there are some chips and scratches in this area all around the truck and it would give me a good oppurtunity to hide those as well, and offer a lttle more protection.

Posted

I hav :crackup: had good and permenant results from the fiberglass cloth kits at parts stores. In small areas like rocker panels, my results have been perfect and cheap.

 

Also, rocker panels are the least critical areas of a vehicle to paint. Even sloppy work looks great because of the angle of view. A hood is dead critical but rocker panel work is trivial to do well.

 

Remove the rusted areas and apply the resin and press the cloth into the wet resin and apply more resin to the top of the fiberglass cloth. In 2000 years the only part left will be the repair.

 

Try to find th cause of the rust-out and fix that too. this is usually blocked water drain holes that cause water to be held for months.

 

Ken :D

Posted

If you are going to do it yourself, sand it well, then put a coat of acid-etch primer on the bare metal before you put anything elso over it. You can get this primer in aresol cans at any paint store. the etch will kill any rust particles left behind.

Posted

My dad works at a body shop, I'd say take it to a shop and atleast get an estimate. They do great work. I wouldn't do body work myself on my truck, because if you mess up, it's probobly gonna show. That I cant paint anything for crap.

 

Speaking of mudflaps I was supposed to go to the dealer and check some out today.

Posted
Welcome to the on-going battle vs. RUST!  You are right to get on this problem before it gets any worse.  I've got a 72 Chevy K-20 that has rusted through cab corners, cab supports and floor board.  All I can do is cut out and weld in new metal. 

 

First things first...what caused the rust?  Did you have mud flaps on the truck since day 1?  If not, you were probably knocking bits of dirt / rock / etc. up on the rockers just by driving.  Those will eventually chip away the paint and expose the metal to air...causing rust.  You can sand & repaint, but the rock chips will eat right through the paint again and more rust.  Picture looks like you have flaps, but if not, get some.

 

Next, you will have to find way to remove rust (sanding, sandblast, wire wheel, etc.).  Good body shop will do the work and warranty for a while, but not for very long.  If it were my truck and I were planning to keep for a long time, here is what I would do:

 

1.  Take to body shop and have them media-blast the area that is rusted and look for other suspect spots that have paint chipped away, etc.  Media-blast with something non-sand so will not warp the metal.  Body guys will know what to use...

2.  Apply one of the rust-encapsulating paints (POR-15, Rust encapsulator, Rust-Mort, etc.  Search for more).  Careful to follow directions as some can really hurt or even kill you if applied incorrectly.

3.  Apply good coat of quality paint.  Don't skimp here.

4.  Apply good quality clear coat.

5.  Keep my eye on this spot for further damage / rust development. 

6.  Get good mud flaps

 

HOpe this helps.

 

 

 

 

I have mud flaps but not from day one, however there are no visible chips to the finish from the outside, the damage is from the inside out. (that seems worse to me) I assume the moisture is coming in around the Extended window area and running down the inside, and not draining out. There is a drain in there, right? It doesn't have a fourth door so the window is really the only source for water to get in. I suppose it could come in from the bottom, but doesn't seem as likely.

 

Another idea I have is sand it all away, 80 grit paper and lots of oomph. Buy a gallon of do it your self bed liner, and do the entire rocker panel. (up to the bottom of the doors, there is a body line there that would make a nice breaking point.) I like this idea because there are some chips and scratches in this area all around the truck and it would give me a good oppurtunity to hide those as well, and offer a lttle more protection.

 

 

 

 

 

If the rust is coming from the "inside out" then you have bigger problems than just some surface rust. I would take that truck to your GM dealer and have it inspected. If I remember right, GM warranties their vehicles from rust for something like 100k(? correct me if I'm wrong). I know they won't cover rust from chips and rock's banging on paint, but something rusting from inside out means defective seals or something else.

 

If it were me, I'd get that truck in and solve this problem quick (dealer, body shop, etc.). Especially if you are planning to keep the truck. Here is a sample of what happens when water is trapped inside your truck and causes rust from the "inside out."

 

6aDSC01273.jpg

 

I would not go the fiberglass route. Previous owner did that on my 72 and the truck just rusted around the fiberglass. Cut out and replace or sand down all rusted parts and coat with rust-stopper-type stuff. IMHO that's the only way to combat rust...and even then it's not 100% guaranteed.

Posted

He's got a 99, so he is past the 6 year 100,000 mile rust warranty. The water did not get in from the rear quarter window. That is completely sealed there. It gets in from the open holes on the inside of the rocker reinforcement. There are actually quite a few panels inside the rocker, for reinforcement. One of the things that GM does, is put a sound deadening foam on the inside of the cab corners, this holds moisture from condensation etc. and lets rust form there. Venture vans have the same problem with the rockers. I wish I had some pics from the inside of the rockers I have cut off. You would see what I mean when I say that the rust WILL come back, somewhere other than where you fix it. If you take it to a body shop and they fix one spot, don't be mad at them if another comes in the same place, or somewhere else. The ONLY way to get rid of the rust is to replace the rusted panel with a new one.

Posted

I know I'm out of the "Rust through" warranty, also got an estimate, some where south of one grand. Definately will be doing this myself.

 

I also know of those holes you speak of, I figured they were there for the purpose of draining. Plus I have my doubts of how well that window is sealed. When I get it back I will pull the interior panel and see what I can see, as well as poke around those holes on the backside of the rocker panel and see what comes out.

Posted

Thanks 5.3isnota327, I forgot it was 6 years / 100k miles.

 

Asilverblazer, good idea to poke around and see what you can see. If those drain holes get plugged up with dirt they can surely hold water and create rust.

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