Jump to content

front differential leak


Recommended Posts

Posted

i have a 1998 tahoe 4wd that is leaking gear oil out of the front differential breather tube that extends up near the top of the radiator on the drivers side of the truck. some days worse than others, but it leaks quite a bit. it happened twice before this in the last 3 yrs, but it would stop once i refilled it. this time no luck, refilled it twice, still coming out.

Posted

That's a heck of a long way up for gear lube to go :D

The vent is there to allow for air to escape as the components heat up and expand, so that pressure does not build up and cause seal failure. Is the front differential overfilled? The fluid level should generally be below the vent line. Is the vent hose kinked or clogged anywhere? Just a couple of things I would check for 1st. :D

Posted
That's a heck of a long way up for gear lube to go :D

The vent is there to allow for air to escape as the components heat up and expand, so that pressure does not build up and cause seal failure.  Is the front differential overfilled? The fluid level should generally be below the vent line. Is the vent hose kinked or clogged anywhere? Just a couple of things I would check for 1st. :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

can only fill to the bottom of the fill hole, then it starts to come out. which is what we did. someone mentioned to me moisture in the rear will expand the fluid, is this possible? 3 people looked at this in the last 2 weeks, none have seen this before, and all of them have no idea.

Posted
can only fill to the bottom of the fill hole, then it starts to come out. which is what we did. someone mentioned to me moisture in the rear will expand the fluid, is this possible? 3 people looked at this in the last 2 weeks, none have seen this before, and all of them have no idea.

 

 

It may be possible, but I haven't seen that before either. My gut feeling is that if there is that much moisture displacing the gear lube, bearing failure would result.

Have you tried doing a fluid change, instead of just adding lube? If not, that would be my next move if I were in your shoes. And while you're under there, double check the vent hose to make sure it's not kinked or clogged. Also make sure the drain pan you use is clean before you drain the diff. so that you have a better chance of seeing if there are any metal shavings or moisture(water) in the old fluid.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Discovered this problem with a 2001 Suburban. Found that the vent hose connector had an issue that you cannot see until you remove it. If you still have this leak, or if anyone has a front differential vent leak where fluid is blown out of the vent, perform the following:

 

  1. Apply the park brake.
  2. Place the transmission in NEUTRAL.
  3. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
  4. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Disconnect the vent hose from the vent hose connector.
  6. Remove the vent hose connector from the differential carrier assembly. (24mm)
  7. Rotate the propeller shaft until the differential case window can be seen through the vent hose connector opening.

    1. Place the alignment arm of the vent hose connector in the 6 o'clock position. Caution: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    2. Install the vent hose connector with the alignment arm in the 6 o'clock position into the vent hose connector opening.

 

    • Tighten the vent hose connector to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
      1. Connect the vent hose to the vent hose connector.
      2. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
      3. Lower the vehicle.
      4. Place the transmission in PARK.
      5. Release the park brake.

       

       

 

 

 

 

Be sure to replace any missing fluid to just below the fill hole. It does NOT need to be filled to over flowing.

 

There is a ratcheting cap on the inside of the cover and it may, for some reason (presumably poor installation) rotate to a position where it flips over and collects fluid. Once the pressure rises in the case, it blows out the fluid. The cycle continues until enough fluid is blown out that it can no longer be slung up to the vent.

 

The above removal and re-assembly instructions are taken from Alldata/GM Dealerworld.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Mark

Posted

I mentioned this in a different thread, if you replace the breather connector (the 2 inch-ish plastic plug in the side of the diff) with the new one from GM, the vent adapter inside is made of metal and will not allow itself to be rotated upsidedown, and will help keep fluid out of the vent.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...