Factory hitch

demented · January 14, 2007

I have heard different opinions about the factory receiver hitch on my 2500hd. What is the weight rating on this hitch? I have been towing an 8500 lbs. enclosed car hauler with a weight distributing hitch without any problems so far, but am I pushing the hitch farther than its intended weight. I also may step up with a heavier trailer so knowing what I have would help.I think its a class 4 hitch but I have heard its only a class 3.

MS3DALE · January 14, 2007

Its a Class III hitch,I believe the weight distributing hitch rating is 12,000lbs. If you look at the sticker on the hitch above the electrical connector it should tell you.

Shaners · January 14, 2007

You're well within your limits especially since you are using torsion bars.

demented · January 14, 2007

Thanks guys for the info but what if I buy a bigger trailer. I have been thinking of buying a 30 ft enclosed trailer and the weight will get up to approx. 11000 lbs. My weight distributing hitch is good to 12000 lbs.

wht2500hd... · January 15, 2007

Without a weight distributing hitch it's good for up to 7,500 lbs; but with wd hitch it's good for at least 12,000 lbs.

It is more likely a class iv (4) hitch. Usually class III goes up to 6,000. But they do overlap. It is always best to check the label, especially on every item used to tow. This includes ballmounts, tow balls and their shanks.

You can always buy at JC Whitney a class 5 ... they don't cost much.

Burbman · January 15, 2007

The GM hitch design has proven to be problematic, and several failures have been documented over on the RV forum. The hitch is rated to take 12,000 lbs in weight-distribution (WD) mode, but the design seems to allow a lot of flex that ultimately "tin cans" the welds until they break.

When you engage the WD bars, it seems that in some cases the receiver is flexing instead of transferring weight forward like it should. If you see your receiver tube pointed up in the rear (when viewed from the side) your receiver is on it's way out. Also look for cracks around the welds where the pin box attaches to the round tube via the safety chain plates.

Only folks that seem to be having trouble with the OEM hitch receiver are using WD hitches to tow 9,000 lbs and up. These problems don't surface on lighter trailers where no WD is used.

For your sizze trailer, I would replace the stock hitch with a Draw-Tite or Putnam Class IV or V and for $150 be done with it. 30 mins work with a wrench.

My receiver failed towing my 9,000 lb travel trailer, I replaced with a Draw-Tite and no worries since.

95Sierra2500 · January 15, 2007

These new hitches seem to have more problems than the old-school class III's (or even a good draw-tite or curt or reese reciever). My personal belief is that they're doing the common GM 'save money everywhere' thing and making them out of material that isn't heavy enough. My old '95 has a class III hitch and I wouldn't be afraid to go OVER 12,000 lbs with a WD hitch with it...