Picking 5.3 Cam

badbrown427 · January 16, 2008

Hey guys, I've started some cam research for my pickup and was wonder if any of you have the Vinci 056 216/224 551. 551. on a 115, or the comp cams XR265HR 212/218 .558 .563 on a 115? Or maybe you have some suggestions for a similar sized cam. I will be running a TBTC or a Yank TT2600 with 4.10s and I will also be using 243's milled down .035" or .040" Do you guys have any other recomendations or maybe some insight on this setup. i'd like to hit mid to high 13's. Thanks for any help.

Schmids5.3l · January 18, 2008

I have the Comp 265, it's a good daily driving cam, works perfectly on the factory torque converter. With the Vinci cam I'd recommend a 3000 rpm converter. I'd recommend a 3000 verter for both cams really, just the 212 218 won't loose any low rpm power. Get a bigger tranny cooler if you get a verter. LS6 heads are good, and since your milling them down it should bump the compression back up to stock or close to it. Whatever cam you pick get Wheatly to retune for you.

Honestly if I were to do the cam swap again I would have gotten a bigger cam, maybe the Comp 216/220 or Thunder racings 220/220. Just be sure and get a retune afterwards, I'm not running the times I should

edit: Are you planning on forced induction in the future?

badbrown427 · January 18, 2008

I have the Comp 265, it's a good daily driving cam, works perfectly on the factory torque converter. With the Vinci cam I'd recommend a 3000 rpm converter. I'd recommend a 3000 verter for both cams really, just the 212 218 won't loose any low rpm power. Get a bigger tranny cooler if you get a verter. LS6 heads are good, and since your milling them down it should bump the compression back up to stock or close to it. Whatever cam you pick get Wheatly to retune for you.

Honestly if I were to do the cam swap again I would have gotten a bigger cam, maybe the Comp 216/220 or Thunder racings 220/220. Just be sure and get a retune afterwards, I'm not running the times I should

edit: Are you planning on forced induction in the future?

Hey thanks for the reply. I don't plan on FI anytime soon especially not on this motor. I dont want to run run a stall any bigger than 2600 just becauce i will still be wheelin' some with the truck. I'll have 4.10s so i figured i wouldnt need the bigger 3000 stall. I'm really just looking for a mild cam that I can for sure hit 13's with. i know It will depend on track condtions weather etc but I'm really hoping. i've read several places where the comp 212/218 highlift was out performing the TR220 with the same supporting mods. I'm still a bit lost on a decision though.

Chestah · January 18, 2008

I think since you are already in the 14's, you should be able to break 13's as long as the tune is pretty well dialed in.

badbrown427 · January 18, 2008

I think since you are already in the 14's, you should be able to break 13's as long as the tune is pretty well dialed in.

With which cam though?

Schmids5.3l · January 18, 2008

Hey thanks for the reply. I don't plan on FI anytime soon especially not on this motor. I dont want to run run a stall any bigger than 2600 just becauce i will still be wheelin' some with the truck. I'll have 4.10s so i figured i wouldnt need the bigger 3000 stall. I'm really just looking for a mild cam that I can for sure hit 13's with. i know It will depend on track condtions weather etc but I'm really hoping. i've read several places where the comp 212/218 highlift was out performing the TR220 with the same supporting mods. I'm still a bit lost on a decision though.

Understood! The comp 212 218 low lift or high lift (both put out close to the same numbers) are very good cams, especially for their size and driveability. I've heard guys say that they've put down better numbers with the 212 218 than a 224 duration cam. I have no personal experience or before and after dyno's, but I don't doubt them. With either cam, retune, and a 2600 converter I'd say you'd be in good shape for 13's.

I was asking about forced induction because the Vinci cam is pretty well spec'ed for it.

babydeuce · January 19, 2008

Here is a thought.....custom grind...

Why play guess work with what will or wont work, when you can have a cam taylor made to exactly what you want?

Sure, most of the off the shelf cams will get you close, but if you have something specific in mind for its use, a custom grid is your best bet. A custom grind will cost you the same money as the off the shelf cam.

I had my custom grind designed by Patrick G from LS1Tech, and just for fun I asked Richard from West Coast Cylinder head to give me his thoughts, and they both came up pretty close to each other. I had Richard order my cam for me from Comp Cams, I had it in 5 days, and it was $389 to my door. The Vinci cams are on sale, so they are a bit cheaper.

If you are stuck on a off the shelf cam, the 212/218 would work well in your application, but it wont be optomized like a custom grind.

Just my 2 cents.........

Jack

Schmids 5.3 if you have the time, would you drop me a pm, I am interested in the performance of your waitforme tune...

badbrown427 · January 19, 2008

Thanks alot, I was just looking for some real world experience for some guys running those cams and i fully understand that a custom grind would suit me better. I may need to look into this some more. Do you guys think it would be wise to skip the 243's and just put better springs on my 862's?

Schmids5.3l · January 19, 2008

Depends on how cheap your getting the 243's. They flow better than 862's.

deuce sending PM.

badbrown427 · January 20, 2008

New assembled castings with yellow springs for $425

Schmids5.3l · January 20, 2008

It all depends on what you want to do. Yellow springs are rated handle around .550 lift, but they've handled more than that. If you get a cam with more aggressive lobes and higher lift, then stronger springs like Comp 918's are needed. Some will argue 243 heads are just stock heads that flow a little better, which they are. Whether the head swap is worth the 15 hp, I don't know. Both of the cams you have in mind will work with yellow springs.

babydeuce · January 20, 2008

Correct me if I am wrong, but the 243's have larger chambers, and will drop your compression ratio....that is great for FI, but not N/A. If you are going to pull the heads, have a competent machinist port your stock heads, and throw a good set of springs on them.

Some will say to just Mill the 243's, and that is an option, but it opens you up to more issues such as shorter pushrods(getting the correct size), Possible PTV contact issues etc.

I would highly suggest talking with the guys at performancetrucks.net. Most of the guys there are running some stout combos, and can get you all the info you need.

Jack

Schmids5.3 PM'd you back, thanks!

Schmids5.3l · January 20, 2008

Agreed on PT.net, tons of knowledgeable gear heads, and it's a fun site if your into this stuff. I'd just make an account just to search! Tons of info on there.

On milled (almost all 243's on 5.3's) heads, some use 7.350" rods some use stock 7.4" rods. I'd say if you mill the head past factory compression (9.5:1 / 61.15 cc chamber) Use 7.350's.

badbrown427 · January 20, 2008

ya, i'm a member there already I just wanted to get some more opinons/options. Right now I'm leaning towards Some fresh 706's milled .010 and comp 918's but I'll let you guys know how things pan out, i wont be doing all this until summer anyway i just wanted to do my homework. really though I'd like to thank you guys for all the comments/help

Clint