Jump to content

Oem Bed Rail Protectors

mnmsmith

Recommended Posts

mnmsmith Enthusiast

mnmsmith

Posted
Posted

Anyone have these? I was wondering what you thought of them. Do they warp or anything like that? I pick my truck up tomorrow, I was surprised bed rail protectors were not standard.

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted
Anyone have these? I was wondering what you thought of them. Do they warp or anything like that? I pick my truck up tomorrow, I was surprised bed rail protectors were not standard.

Several people inhere have posted pics of them. They look better than the aftermarket versions.

ak63 Enthusiast

ak63

Posted
Posted

They look good, but be careful applying them if you have an 8ft long bed. The long bed rail has 3 stake pockets, and the stake pocket holes in the 8ft NBS protectors are not exactly centered on all three. To install correctly have someone help you center the protector over the middle pocket and then work out to either end. Also be careful since the tape is single use and sticks very well!

matello Enthusiast

matello

Posted
Posted

Just installed mine yesterday. Easy to do and look nice, especially since the match the existing tailgate rail protector.

Heysdad Enthusiast

Heysdad

Posted
Posted

I have em, and I love em. :lol:

 

The only gripe I have is the bed stake hole caps don't fit so well, but they do stay in place so that's good.

 

They were very easy to install. Just make sure you start them at the tail gate end.

 

When I did mine it was cold outside so I heated up the truck rail with a heat gun to make sure the tape would stick.

 

No problems yet.....They look great.

Razor1616 Enthusiast

Razor1616

Posted
Posted

I have been having a hard time getting the last few inches to stick on mine. They look great, but the ends keep popping up. then i have to go back and push it back down, which lasts for a while. I have reapplied tape like 5 times now and it never seems to stick!

 

but they are great other than that.

ak63 Enthusiast

ak63

Posted
Posted
Just make sure you start them at the tail gate end.

Except read my note and ensure you press hard enough on the curve at the end so that on an 8ft bed the center stake pocket is centered. I did not do that the first time round, but got a free replacement from the dealer due to the "defect" of the non-centered holes.

mkayler Enthusiast

mkayler

Posted
Posted

I have them also. They are great. Only had one issue with the tape on the very ends not sticking to well. But went and bought wider 3M tape and reapplied them and now they are not moving. The pattern on top matches the tailgate piece so it looks great.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted
Anyone have these? I was wondering what you thought of them. Do they warp or anything like that? I pick my truck up tomorrow, I was surprised bed rail protectors were not standard.

 

No they do not warp. They came standard on '06 crew cabs. They were not taped on, but have nylon tabs that fit into predilled holes. Then GM got cheap and deleted them along with previously standard fender flares. Despite these deletions , the sticker price went up.

 

In '04 the fog lights were standard on Z71 trucks. these were also deleted later.

  • 2 weeks later...
Lincoln30 Enthusiast

Lincoln30

Posted
Posted

I haven't had any problem with mine sticking like some others. I did clean the rails twice with alcohol before applying (the directions stated to clean them with a 50/50 water/alc mix, I didn't add water). It's also important that the temp be over 60 degrees for a number of hours when you put them on and once they stick you can't pull them up and move them or you will need to replace the trim tape before reapplying.

gallery_40460_136_21525.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...