Jump to content

Same Old Question I Know But ( Plugs ?))

pastorscott

Recommended Posts

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted
on my 04 burb 5.3 Im at 50,000 want to change plugs, what do you guys recomend

 

Scott

Check this out Scott. It's pretty good info on plugs.

 

Plug Thread

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

Scott, our cataloging indicates the NGK 7862 Laser Plat was the OE plug even in 04. I thought GM used NGKs up until 02 or 03 but according the our e cat and NGKs catalog, the 7862 was the OE plug. When I pulled my OE plugs in my 02, they were co labeled with NGK on one side of the plug and AC and the long GM # on the other side.

 

I would suggest you use this plug however you cannot go wrong with the AC plugs either. Don't forget the wires. Do not try to re use them.

 

The issue with gapping them is the center electrode is so small that a gap gauge will damage them making them not perform well. With that said, do not adjust the gap.

 

See the shot below I took of our e cat page for your truck. Go to the bottom and look at the NGK listing.

 

Select Qty Car

Qty Manufacturer Part Number Description Years List Core PP Available Delivery

SPARK PLUG

8 CHAMPION SPARK PLUG 7983 Double Platinum Plug 04 $11.43 12 Raleigh

S/P-DBL PLAT

8 CHAMPION SPARK PLUG 9405 Iridium Plug 04 $19.91 16 DCtest

T ENG CODE

 

OE STYLE

 

IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG

8 CHAMPION SPARK PLUG 9405 Iridium Plug 04 $19.91 16 DCtest

Z ENG CODE

 

IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG

8 CHAMPION SPARK PLUG 3983 Platinum Plug 04 $5.39 20 DCtest

PLATINUM POWER

 

PLAT. POWER SPRK PLG

8 CHAMPION SPARK PLUG 4983 Truck Plug 04 $5.62 $2.78 50.5 8 DCtest

TRUCK SPARK PLUG

8 AUTOLITE APP5245 Autolite Double Platinum Plug 03-04 $7.85 $5.27 32.9 40 DCtest

8 AUTOLITE XP5245 Autolite Iridium XP Plug 03-04 $10.79 64 DCtest

OE RECOMMENDED PLUG

 

XTREME PERF. PLUG

8 AUTOLITE AP5245 Autolite Platinum Plug 03-04 $4.75 $3.39 28.6 32 DCtest

8 AUTOLITE 5245 Autolite Resistor Plug 03-04 $2.85 $1.71 40.1 11 Raleigh

COPPER CORE

8 NGK 7164 Iridium Plug 04 $16.75 36 DCtest

IX SERIES

 

SPARK PLUG/PLAT

8 NGK 3403 Platinum Plug 04 $6.14 8 Raleigh

G-POWER

 

SPARK PLUG

8 NGK 7862 Platinum Plug 04 $21.57 8 DCtest

OE MANUFACTURER/SERVICE PART - LASER SERIES PLATINUM CENTER ELECTRODE, AND PLATINUM PAD GROUND ELECTRODE

SPARK PLUG

8 NGK 3951 V Power Spark Plug 04 $4.34 $2.46 43.4 4 Raleigh

8 CARQUEST/GPI/ACDELCO 41-985 Iridium Plug 02-04 $14.14 $8.45 40.2 16 Raleigh

GAP .040 - DO NOT DEVIATE FROM PRESET

 

SPARK PLUG

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

Scott, I wanted to offer a little more info.

 

It would appear the 7862 Laser Plat is no longer avail. The 7164 is the Iridium IX plug and it, as well as other NGK plugs for your 5.3 are all pre gapped at .044. NGK once used .060 and you could possibly still find a store with some 7862 and they may very well be gapped at .060. Not too long ago, NGK followed AC, who gaps at .040 I believe, and now offers all of their plugs pre gapped at .044.

 

I have the 7862s gapped at .060 and my truck runs great and the idle is very smooth.

 

Now that you are good an confused, whether you use the NGK Iridium, find some 7862 laser plats or use AC, do not adjust the gap.

bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

Posted
Posted
on my 04 burb 5.3 Im at 50,000 want to change plugs, what do you guys recomend

 

Scott

 

Have you pulled one and looked at it? Odds are they don't even need replacing at this point. Determining what plug to run also depends on the frequency at which you intend to replace them. If you don't mind replacing them a little more frequently run copper core and save yourself some money.

d3athsong Enthusiast

d3athsong

Posted
Posted
on my 04 burb 5.3 Im at 50,000 want to change plugs, what do you guys recomend

 

Scott

 

Have you pulled one and looked at it? Odds are they don't even need replacing at this point. Determining what plug to run also depends on the frequency at which you intend to replace them. If you don't mind replacing them a little more frequently run copper core and save yourself some money.

 

 

Talked to a guy the other day with a 99 ford f150 with 500000km's on it. He changes plugs every 200000km's. They work fine right till he pulls em out. Ok so maybe he pays the dealer to pull em out, cause they dont want to come out after that long. Now I personally dont like to leave plugs quite that long, but they will probably last. At 50000, i would just pull em out, put some anti-sieze on em, and shove em back in for another 50000. If you really are intent on changing them, you cant go wrong with ngk's.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...