Jump to content

You Are Not Going To Believe This...

GatorFan

Recommended Posts

GatorFan Enthusiast

GatorFan

Posted
Posted

Well let you tell you my little story... :D

 

I was driving home for lunch on Monday (from work) when I heard this wired sound coming from my truck. About 5 seconds later I hear a noise that sounds like my tire blew out and I felt the rear end lock up, spinning the rear of my truck into on coming traffic. Luckily I was only going about 25 MPH because I just left a red light. Anyway, I could not get the truck to move forward no matter what I did. I got out and saw the right rear flat and figured I could just crawl off the road and into a convenience store parking lot to change the tire. Anyway, the truck would not budge when I pressed the gas. I figured the rear end blew so I even tried putting it in neutral (both the transmission and the transfer case) and tried to push it... NO LUCK! I got a little pissed and figured F%$^ IT :lol: , I put it in 4X4 and pushed the gas and I heard what sounded like the rear end finally unlock and it rolled with no trouble to the parking lot. When I pushed the brake to stop it, the pedal went all the way to the floor and barely stopped me from rolling (even the emergency brake pedal did the same thing). I got the tired changed and threw the flat in the bed and drove it about 3/4 of a mile home (driving about 15 MPH). I still couldn't figure what the problem was because I saw no fluid any where under or around the truck. When I went to take the flat out, I turned it over and saw that the rim was busted on the inside. I called a tow truck to pick up the truck and take it to a local garage I use. When the tow truck driver put my truck on the flat bed, he said, HOLY S$%^ :) , take a look at this. The right rear caliper was on the bottom of the axle and the caliper bracket was snapped on one side. He said of all his 15 years, he has never seen a caliper bracket break like that and said I was lucky I wasn't going about 60 MPH or I would've probably wrecked pretty bad. Anyway, the truck is at the garage and my mechanic buddy said that out of his 35+ years, he has never seen this either. HE had the right rear axle out and the diff cover off and said the ring and pinion looked fine as well as the axle shaft but we will have to order a caliper, rotor, caliper bracket, rear backing plate, pads, and a new rim. I tell you what, that scared the SH(^ :eek: out of me when my rear end locked up and I spun out in traffic. Anyone ever hear of something like this happening?

 

Here are some pics of the rim...

 

2254522_29_full.jpg

 

2254522_30_full.jpg

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

that is seriously f**ked up.......I have never heard of a rim (at least OEM) break like that, they usually develop micro fractures (wheel leaks) but never that out right....what that wheel made in china???

alaska511 Senior Enthusiast

alaska511

Posted
Posted

I have seen this. Fortunately it was on a truck with steel wheels. My friend did his own brakes and left the bolts loose on the caliper mount. One bolt fellout, and the caliper assy pivoted into the wheel and locked him up. Who did the brakes last??

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

My theory is that something bounced up in there and broke the caliper off... and destroyed the wheel in the process. Large stone, piece of metal, etc. Other than an impact there isn't any way that wheel got that much damage. Wheels don't just crack 6 inches... even if it did it wouldn't flex enough to hit the caliper by itself. That and the tire would have been leaking for some time as the crack developed.

 

Wierd deal for sure. Glad you are OK.

 

EDIT: That looks like an ARE Baja 16x8. If it is American Racing warranties their wheels for a lifetime against structural failure. I think i'd be talking to them if you believe it was a failure.

Rocco715 Enthusiast

Rocco715

Posted
Posted

Thats crazy man. I'd be glad that it was my brakes and rim instead of my whole rearend though. There must be something going with wheel manufacturers or something take a look at a picture of this guys vette 28JAN2008027.jpg

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

I'm with the others in that a) THAT SUCKS! and b) was it the rim that failed and took the caliper with it? Or did the caliper fail and take the rim with it?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...