Jump to content

P0300 Code After Wash - Now Start, Idle, Die ?


Recommended Posts

Posted

:cheers:Some Help Needed Please. 2001 2500HD Crew V8 6.0L 90,000Mi

 

Truck had issues starting and would usually take 5 or more turns to start. Decided to turn the key to prime it a few times before cranking it and that seemed to help.

Took truck through carwash that had undercarriage and all was fine until driving it down the road home when it started to lose power. Got to a signal and truck was idling horribly. Made it home and it sat overnight thinking water got somewhere.

Next day went to start truck and it started right off...idled and rocked badly...then died. Started again right off and I pressed the accelerator to the floor...it died down to a bad idle again... and died.

All hoses were in tact and changed the fuel filter (which seemed to help some) but still the hard idling and then a backfire occurred once after the filter change.

Took the truck to the local mechanic who ran and got the code... and said everything looked fine to him. He states that it's most likely the computer and it may need to be replaced or it has 'lost the ability to control the fuel injectors.'

After reading other posts about this issue, I checked the fuel regulator hose and it is dry. Any other ideas for me to check before I even look at the computer??? I have very little funds to fix my truck and I just got it 6 months ago (from a large dealer who, supposedly, did a great used-car check). Ugh!

Any help is appreciated!!! Thanks!

c]:o)

post-52564-1217646695_thumb.jpg

post-52564-1217646695_thumb.jpg

post-52564-1217646695_thumb.jpg

post-52564-1217646695_thumb.jpg

Posted
He states that it's most likely the computer and it may need to be replaced or it has 'lost the ability to control the fuel injectors.'

 

This is most unlikely and unless he did something more than hook up a scan tool the last thing I would condemn is a PCM. Can you have someone check fuel pressure. Check key up pressure, running pressure and how much drop is recorded over 1 minute after key up pressure.

 

who, supposedly, did a great used-car check). Ugh

 

We don't have a crystal ball in the inspection bay, you can see what might go wrong with some things like suspension or brakes but this doesn't sound like one of them. Some dealers will help out in this situation, have you contacted them?

Posted

-The 'Crystal Ball' would be nice, but to make it clear = I only have issues with dealers who try to pull a fast one over on the consumer... otherwise, I have no problems with them or their employees. -

 

As for your help on the pressure test, the mechanic I took it to states that the fuel pressure is within specs - no exhaust restriction either. The truck starts fine and now will stay running but very lean. The only way to explain it is that every 2 or so turns of the engine, it drops to almost stalling.

 

Any other ideas from anyone?

Thanks!

Posted

P0300 is a random cylinder misfire. Have you checked the spark plug wires that go from the coils to the plugs for moisture? How about the coils themselves to make sure they are not cracked. With 90K, the plugs themselves are probably pretty worn (100K tune ups are a myth) so it is time to replace those too. Fuel pressure regulators do not always leak through the hose and if you are having that much problem getting it fired in the morning, the pressure regulator is a very common problem and about 1/8th the cost of a fuel pump. You'll probably benefit from replacing it even if it isn't bad, the new designs are built much better. Make sure to use di-electric grease when installing the spark plug wires so that water can't get trapped in the connections causing a misfire.... Good luck and keep us posted.

Posted

Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

Posted
Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

 

Why change the fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is within specs as stated earlier?

Posted
Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

 

Why change the fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is within specs as stated earlier?

 

 

Because it may be allowing 'bleed down' in fuel pressure, causing it to go lean and misfire. Common occurance.

Posted
Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

 

Why change the fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is within specs as stated earlier?

 

 

Because it may be allowing 'bleed down' in fuel pressure, causing it to go lean and misfire. Common occurance.

 

 

And that should be able to be tested w/ a fuel pressure tester correct?

Posted
Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

 

Why change the fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is within specs as stated earlier?

 

 

Because it may be allowing 'bleed down' in fuel pressure, causing it to go lean and misfire. Common occurance.

 

 

And that should be able to be tested w/ a fuel pressure tester correct?

 

 

Yes, but you can't isolate the pressure regulator versus the fuel pump. At start up, you may have fuel pressure right away, but no actual fuel going through the regulator, causing a hard start.

Posted
Thank you!

I will check the list and see if the plugs were changed when I had purchased the truck. I will check the coils and I had already thought of replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator... might as well right? If those don't work...on to the next step.

Thanks!

 

Why change the fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is within specs as stated earlier?

 

 

Because it may be allowing 'bleed down' in fuel pressure, causing it to go lean and misfire. Common occurance.

 

 

And that should be able to be tested w/ a fuel pressure tester correct?

 

 

Yes, but you can't isolate the pressure regulator versus the fuel pump. At start up, you may have fuel pressure right away, but no actual fuel going through the regulator, causing a hard start.

 

 

 

*** I did have a very hard time starting the truck... used to turn over at least 10 times before it would start. I used to prime it a few times by turning the ignition and then starting it. Seemed to help a little with the fuel filter being replaced, but now this. Should I change the regulator anyway because of the previous issue starting? Maybe this is what lead it to where we are now??? *** Thank you by the way!!!

Posted
Yes, but you can't isolate the pressure regulator versus the fuel pump

 

A properly done fuel system test can isolate a fuel pressure regulator. If you have to key up a bunch to make it start right off that indicates a fuel issue and thats why I asked for the fuel tesing. Too much drop can indicate fuel pump not holding, regulator not holding and injector(s) leaking. You can isolate all of these things if you are testing for them. A regulator is the cheapest option if your just looking to roll the dice.

Posted
Yes, but you can't isolate the pressure regulator versus the fuel pump

 

A properly done fuel system test can isolate a fuel pressure regulator. If you have to key up a bunch to make it start right off that indicates a fuel issue and thats why I asked for the fuel tesing. Too much drop can indicate fuel pump not holding, regulator not holding and injector(s) leaking. You can isolate all of these things if you are testing for them. A regulator is the cheapest option if your just looking to roll the dice.

 

 

 

 

The regulator is the easiest and most common as well

Posted

Sorry, to clarify I ment cheapest from both a parts and labor standpoint. Also regulators are not as common as lots of folks here think. I think in the last year I replaced a handfull vs. around a hundred pumps.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...