Jump to content

What Should I Get...?


faisal

Recommended Posts

Posted

In a month or two..im fainaly buying a truck and get red of my 2004 isuzu rodeo for my young brother,

so i'm thinking about these to choicis

 

the 1500 has

 

lighter in wight esaier to drive and handls like a CAR in the city

 

it has the AFM(activ fuel mangment) so it has beter MPG

 

shorter in length...so a better off roading

 

stability trac

 

better suspinson with the front coil over shock

 

cheaper parts...as in maintenance

 

the 2500 has

 

6.0 ((the largest engine that our dealers get on a 1500 is the 5.3 for the trucks))

 

VVT

 

and the tranny is much powerful and can take alot more HP when stock than the 1500 tranny

 

alot more HP with the 95 octane programming and some air intake and headers

 

 

NOTES :

 

1)I dont tow or haul any thing as in every day work...just in week ends and trips and some times when i go to desert

 

2)is the differance in the MPG worth giving up the power

 

3)is the 2500 as comfort like or even near as the 1500

 

4)the truck will be my every day vehicle and i dont own any other

 

 

 

so

 

1500 or 2500??

Posted
In a month or two..im fainaly buying a truck and get red of my 2004 isuzu rodeo for my young brother,

so i'm thinking about these to choicis

 

the 1500 has

 

lighter in wight esaier to drive and handls like a CAR in the city

 

it has the AFM(activ fuel mangment) so it has beter MPG

 

shorter in length...so a better off roading

 

stability trac

 

better suspinson with the front coil over shock

 

cheaper parts...as in maintenance

 

the 2500 has

 

6.0 ((the largest engine that our dealers get on a 1500 is the 5.3 for the trucks))

 

VVT

 

and the tranny is much powerful and can take alot more HP when stock than the 1500 tranny

 

alot more HP with the 95 octane programming and some air intake and headers

 

 

NOTES :

 

1)I dont tow or haul any thing as in every day work...just in week ends and trips and some times when i go to desert

 

2)is the differance in the MPG worth giving up the power

 

3)is the 2500 as comfort like or even near as the 1500

 

4)the truck will be my every day vehicle and i dont own any other

 

 

 

so

 

1500 or 2500??

 

Oh boy,that's a tuff one sandman.You put up good arguments for both,but,you said it yourself you don't really need a 2500.I understand there's alot that can be done with the 5.3.Personnally I would always get the biggest truck/Burb with the biggest engine I could since I tow a toy hauler several times a year.Let's see what the guys think...

 

gramps

Posted
In a month or two..im fainaly buying a truck and get red of my 2004 isuzu rodeo for my young brother,

so i'm thinking about these to choicis

 

the 1500 has

 

lighter in wight esaier to drive and handls like a CAR in the city

 

it has the AFM(activ fuel mangment) so it has beter MPG

 

shorter in length...so a better off roading

 

stability trac

 

better suspinson with the front coil over shock

 

cheaper parts...as in maintenance

 

the 2500 has

 

6.0 ((the largest engine that our dealers get on a 1500 is the 5.3 for the trucks))

 

VVT

 

and the tranny is much powerful and can take alot more HP when stock than the 1500 tranny

 

alot more HP with the 95 octane programming and some air intake and headers

 

 

NOTES :

 

1)I dont tow or haul any thing as in every day work...just in week ends and trips and some times when i go to desert

 

2)is the differance in the MPG worth giving up the power

 

3)is the 2500 as comfort like or even near as the 1500

 

4)the truck will be my every day vehicle and i dont own any other

 

 

 

so

 

1500 or 2500??

 

It is a tough call. What sorts of things will you be hauling on the weekends? Anything heavy enough to need a 2500 for?

 

The 1500 is also lighter in weight than the 2500 which does compensate some for the less power of the 5.3. Also with the 5.3 you can put on the same sort of programming, headers, intake, etc as you can on the 6.0.

 

As for the tranny being stronger in the 2500, I don't really know how true. The last I heard the tranny in the 1500 was good to about 600HP, depending on the amount of abuse.

 

Unless I needed the extra hauling and towing capacity of the 2500, I would go with the 1500.

Posted

You know, I really wanted a 2500 when I was looking for trucks, too, just because they rode higher and seemed tougher. :sick: However, I'm glad I ended up with a 1500, it has a much better ride and is MUCH better suited for the light hauling I do; a 2500 would definitely be overkill. I initially wanted a Ram 2500 with a Cummins Diesel, but after I saw how high prices were for them this time last year (now it's the diesel itself that's really expensive :D ), I began to look at GM gassers (a Ram 2500 with a Cummins is the only non-GM truck I'd get). Most used 2500s were well worn and also harder to come across (I understand you're buying new, though). That being said, it's clear 2500s are really meant to be work trucks hauling and towing on a daily basis. Otherwise, you're just spending excess money for needs you don't have and a rougher ride. If I were planning on modifying a truck to be fast later on down the line, a 1500 is definitely a better choice (well, if you want a gasser), regardless of engine.

Posted

Let me say this, my 99 2500 (I know it's a LD) but it has 6.0l it gets around 16 mpg in mixed driving so its not to bad on the pocketbook. I know that I have overloaded the 2500 and I know that I will overload it again. So my only choice it a 3500 I may not "need" it every day but I want it every day!! I think that it is better to have it (what ever that is) and not need it than to need it and not have it. :sick:

Posted

If you get the 1500, you'll always be wondering if you should have gotten the 2500.

 

You probably can't find a 2500 owner who wishes he got a 1500.

Posted
As for the tranny being stronger in the 2500, I don't really know how true. The last I heard the tranny in the 1500 was good to about 600HP, depending on the amount of abuse.

 

Yeah, if you have an engine making 600HP connected to a stock 4L60E putting it into drive would be enough abuse to make it crap out.

 

If money isn't a huge object get a 2500 4dr. Duramax/Allison. Ride is good, extremely capable, mileage is on par with half-tons, diesel is more awesome than gas, etc.

Posted

okkkkkkkk

 

so most of you would get the 1500

 

the last Q and the most imprtant one

 

can a 5.3 reg cab win a drag race with a 2500 reg cab

 

 

another thing about the 1500

 

have any one noticed the shifting in the 1500s

 

tahoe, yukon, silvy,sierra

 

it shifts back and forth at 100mph when you load the truck or even but somthing on the top of the truck\suv

 

even with the ....the speed is set on 100...whats the name

Posted
okkkkkkkk

 

so most of you would get the 1500

 

the last Q and the most imprtant one

 

can a 5.3 reg cab win a drag race with a 2500 reg cab

 

 

another thing about the 1500

 

have any one noticed the shifting in the 1500s

 

tahoe, yukon, silvy,sierra

 

it shifts back and forth at 100mph when you load the truck or even but somthing on the top of the truck\suv

 

even with the ....the speed is set on 100...whats the name

 

I'm willing to bet a RCRB 1500 would beat a 2500 RCLB due to being quite a bit lighter. Again, the 2500 is a truck meant to do work, not be fast. Also, are you sure you can't get VortecMAX over there? It might just be because you're looking at a regular cab 1500; you have to have an extended cab or crew cab to get the VortecMAX option.

 

As for that shifting, I'm not sure about that. It might just be the fuel cutout which it's definitely supposed to do. Also, I think you mean "with the cruise control set on 100 mph."

Posted
okkkkkkkk

 

so most of you would get the 1500

 

the last Q and the most imprtant one

 

can a 5.3 reg cab win a drag race with a 2500 reg cab

 

 

another thing about the 1500

 

have any one noticed the shifting in the 1500s

 

tahoe, yukon, silvy,sierra

 

it shifts back and forth at 100mph when you load the truck or even but somthing on the top of the truck\suv

 

even with the ....the speed is set on 100...whats the name

 

I'm willing to bet a RCRB 1500 would beat a 2500 RCLB due to being quite a bit lighter. Again, the 2500 is a truck meant to do work, not be fast. Also, are you sure you can't get VortecMAX over there? It might just be because you're looking at a regular cab 1500; you have to have an extended cab or crew cab to get the VortecMAX option.

 

As for that shifting, I'm not sure about that. It might just be the fuel cutout which it's definitely supposed to do. Also, I think you mean "with the cruise control set on 100 mph."

 

 

the thing is thats true about the 6.0 coming only in the 2500

 

and most of our regs are 4.8s...and the 5.3 are taken the second the VIN is in the sales man system :)

 

and iv been searching for the vmax and asking about it..and nothing as always :D

 

and thank u for the "with the cruise control set on 100 mph." :D

Posted

I have a 2500HD and have had a 2001 3/4ton Suburban and the ride is NOT bad at all. I am not sure about what some people expect out of a pickup truck? That being said I will say that a 1500 does ride smoother, but overall teh 2500HD have stronger parts all around. Its never overkill when you never have to worry about towing a heavy load or worring about stressing the truck. Also the new 6.0L make 353HP stock and have the new 6L90 trans that are pretty strong. I would say that the new trucks with a good tune would be alot of fun.

Also as for a 1/2ton 5.3 liter being "faster" than a 3/4ton, that is tough to say. I know I have betten several 1/2tons, but my truck is basically stock, but has a Wheatley tune that really "woke" it up. But I have hear guys with a 5.3 and a tune have gotten good results. So in my vote a 2500HD is a better truck hands down. Hope this helps.

Posted
okkkkkkkk

 

so most of you would get the 1500

 

the last Q and the most imprtant one

 

can a 5.3 reg cab win a drag race with a 2500 reg cab

 

 

another thing about the 1500

 

have any one noticed the shifting in the 1500s

 

tahoe, yukon, silvy,sierra

 

it shifts back and forth at 100mph when you load the truck or even but somthing on the top of the truck\suv

 

even with the ....the speed is set on 100...whats the name

 

I'm willing to bet a RCRB 1500 would beat a 2500 RCLB due to being quite a bit lighter. Again, the 2500 is a truck meant to do work, not be fast. Also, are you sure you can't get VortecMAX over there? It might just be because you're looking at a regular cab 1500; you have to have an extended cab or crew cab to get the VortecMAX option.

 

As for that shifting, I'm not sure about that. It might just be the fuel cutout which it's definitely supposed to do. Also, I think you mean "with the cruise control set on 100 mph."

 

 

the thing is thats true about the 6.0 coming only in the 2500

 

and most of our regs are 4.8s...and the 5.3 are taken the second the VIN is in the sales man system :)

 

and iv been searching for the vmax and asking about it..and nothing as always :D

 

and thank u for the "with the cruise control set on 100 mph." :D

 

 

Damn, well I'd really research it before getting a 5.3 and finding out you could have gotten the VortecMAX option. I don't see why they wouldn't sell it over there. I take it you're buying used, as well. You should check on the Chevrolet and GMC websites to see if the 1500s can be built with the VortecMAX option.

Posted

If your looking for a fast off roader go with the 1500 Regular Cab Faisal. I know my truck is awesome in the dunes because it is so light and the 5.3 is more than enough for a Regular Cab.

 

I like the 6.0 and would love to have an option to put it in a regular cab 1500.

 

A 5.3 regular cab with 95 octane tune, full exhaust, and other modifications will definitely be faster than a regular cab 2500 6.0 with the same modifications.

 

That being said if you are going to tow things every now and then for camping go with the 2500. I know my truck does everything well except tow. (because of the crappy 3.42 gears in it)

Posted

good good .

 

now im lost.

 

my choice is gonna be a 1500 reg cab if i can get the 5.3,and if not,ill definietely go with the 2500

 

and about the opitions and such

 

i cant build a truck in here....if i did ill have to wait for at least 2-3 months cause of the shipping thing.

 

i just can pick one from the system and then see it in the dealers wearhouse

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...