Jump to content

Just Got My New Truck. Need Advice


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. This is my first post on these forums. I would appreciate your input on computer control modules or whatever they are called. Mainly I would be interested in getting better gas mileage. My new 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3L V-8 (3.73 gear ratio) is quite a bit more powerful than my old 1998 Ford F-150 with its 4.6L V-8 as is and the Ford worked just fine for me so I really do not "need" more power. I never do any towing either. But in doing a bit of research on this forum I see that many of you really like your truck after having Justin at Blackbear Performance do a tune for you. So I am considering this as an option but absolutely would not want to do anything that would jeapordize my warranty. Would Justin's tune void my warranty? If I kept my old unit could I just install it when I took it to the dealer so that they would have no idea of my use of an aftermarket unit?

 

Here is a photo of me with my new truck. The color is Inferno Orange. I just got it last week and am so far loving it. With the big rebate I was searching high and low trying to find one equipped in the ball park of what I was after and this was the only one I could find and it was in Las Vegas with me living in SE WA state. I actually really like the color.

 

I also have another question. My Ford did not have running boards or steps and getting in and out I tended to slide over the seat. This wore out the seat so I think I should get some sort of a step for my new truck. I am thinking seriously about Carr Super Hoop. Should I look at something else or would that one work great for me? I do not want to spend too much but do want to get something that will make getting in and out easier and will help keep the seats looking good for many years. Thanks for any input you can give.

 

BCnewtruck2.jpg

Posted

welcome to the site, lots of good info for you, I have a set back country running boards on mine came with the truck, but work well, the color is not bad to look at...

Posted

Welcome! Nice truck!

 

I hate to try and comment on what will void the warranty, but keep your stock modules and hook up with Justin at Blackbear :lol: He will answer your questions.

 

I have the GM step bars, and I really like them.

Posted

Welcome to the site! :lol:

 

The use of any non-OEM calibration from either handheld programmers or from a custom tuner like Justin at Blackbear Performance will jeopardize your warranty. If your dealer ever found that a non-OEM calibration had been applied to the vehicle they will have grounds to potentially void your warranty if they can prove that the tune caused the condition in question. The best way to try to mitigate this is to do exactly as you suggested and buy an entirely new set of modules, have them programmed and swap them out at service time. I will be getting a tune once my warranty expires but not before. I just prefer to be safe and not have to sweat any expensive repairs. All of that said, I have heard not a single bad thing about Blackbear Performance and would suggest that if you do anything, you go that route. Just tell Justin what your goals are and he will deliver as best as is possible.

 

As for the color, that's only the second one I have seen. We have another member, takevin, who has a similarly colored truck. He also has some rather unique mods. :D

 

I'm afraid I won't be much help on the step bars though as I don't have any on my truck. A lot of guys seem to like N-Fab, Westin and the GM kits as well.

 

Again, Welcome to the site! :thumbs:

 

 

You know, if you remove all of the badges and stickers from your truck you'll save mileage by shedding weight and improving aerodynamics! :crackup:

Posted

Holy carrot cake, Batman! That's some orange! You gotta be a hunter, right?

 

I just got a Blackbear tune installed tonight. I posted another thread on my first impressions. It's over under the Engine & Powertrain submenu. If you are really disappointed with the driveability of your truck, the tune may be for you. If you are perfectly happy with the way your truck drives, leave it alone. I was somewhat perturbed about the way my truck drove and wanted to fix it to at least the way you would expect a new truck to drive. My BB tune did that and then some.

Posted

First, welcome to the zoo.

 

Second, I'm lovin' the sweater.

 

And finally, as far as the steps go, if you want that style with the drop down "loop steps" then the Carr ones may be your best bet. However, if you're interested in that style, but want a full nerf bar to go with it, look into N-Fab. If N-Fab is too expensive, maybe try Go Rhino steps. They are similar to the N-Fab's, and typically cost less.

 

Edit: Did some of the dirty work for ya.

 

http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?Cate...ProductId=83670

 

http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?Cate...roductId=238307

Posted

honestly i would try to stay away from the hoop steps and buy full boards..

 

they are goign to be about $250-350 but its not a bad price considering how much a seat costs.. plus if you get the 6" ovals they will keep the rockers from rusting if you live in a snowy climate..

Posted

GM is starting to crack down on PCM tunes. I have also read that they can tell if the computer has been swapped (I'm not saying I beleive it).

 

These things have way too much TQ management. I can't blame people for wanting to tune that out. I have serious doubts that anyone can do much with a tune to improve fuel economy. I'm sure some tuners will tell you they can, but I would call BS on that. GM adds torque managent for a reason. They have no reason the leave "mpg" on the table. I realize the stock calibration is a bit rich. Tuning a bit leaner could return some improvement, but how much?

 

But do this - add up all the money you would spend for spare modules, paying for the tune, and any other related cost. Now consider you MIGHT gain 2 mpg (I doubt it). See how many miles you would have to drive to recoup all of that money. And that isn't even giving consideration to the Net Present Value of the money you spent up front (and the time required to recover costs through improved economy).

Posted

Nice truck ! Personally I like the AMP power steps. I have the stainless nerf bars and miss the clearance, but want the convenience. I didn't know about AMP when I bought my nerf barss.

Posted

Nice looking truck! Welcome to the club. I have to agree with Daddy on waiting for a tune. I don't have a custom tune, I went with a hand held thinking returning it to stock would solve the warranty issue, but now know it can be detected as well. Makes me paranoid about bringing the truck in for any service! I like what a tune does for the driveability (and a custom tune is far better than a hand held tune), but I'm not so sure it's woth the worry. If I had it to do over again, I'd forego the tune for a bit less stress and worry! Just my .02...

Posted

Regarding the tune:

 

I agree that tuning for MPG is not worth it. But tuning for driveability/performance is most definitely worth it. These trucks are stricken with extremely conservative tuning and the driveability completely sucks to the point of being almost dangerous at times (i.e. passing or changing into the fast lane). You will notice this if you haven't already.

 

I would get a spare set of modules and go the custom tune route and not lose a minute of sleep over it. My truck is at the dealer right now and I put the stock modules in it, even though they aren't "virgins" as I used to run the Edge Evolution on them, but returned it to stock and sold it and went the custom tune route. Could they see that I had a non-OEM calibration in there at one time? Probably. But unless they have probable cause (i.e. a major powertrain failure that is symptomatic of abuse or a tune), they aren't going to look. GM would have to request the dealer to take a "snapshot" of the Cal. ID's and they would have to send them to GM for evaluation.

 

Bottom line.....People are WAY too paranoid about this when in all likelyhood, the chances of it ever affecting you are extremely slim.

 

Now, if you had a Diesel or a Vette, then your chances of getting caught are much higher since diesel tunes boost power by an order of magnitude more than a gasser tune will. Hence increasing the chance of a major PT issue much more without beefing up the rest of the drivetrain. Vettes are also under the GM microscope due to the obvious nature of the vehicle.

 

As for step bars, I have the GM 6" ovals, but I also like the N-Fab style bars. It all depends on the lok you want. I like the rocker/door protection that the 6" ovals provide.

 

Welcome to the site!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...