jake1530 Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 What I'm looking for is a picture by picture instruction on the procedure for replacing the battery in my 2005 GMC 1500 Sierra. I figured you guys helped me out with pictures replacing the heat resistor (thank you very much), and there was the same thing for replacing a battery. I know some of you guys are thinking "you got to be kidding me", but I did kill a computer on my old Jeep Grand Cherokee while jumping it (long story). I got all the info about not loosing factory info from using the search, I was just hoping for some pics. Thanks in advance, Jake.
ALange Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 What I'm looking for is a picture by picture instruction on the procedure for replacing the battery in my 2005 GMC 1500 Sierra. I figured you guys helped me out with pictures replacing the heat resistor (thank you very much), and there was the same thing for replacing a battery. I know some of you guys are thinking "you got to be kidding me", but I did kill a computer on my old Jeep Grand Cherokee while jumping it (long story). I got all the info about not loosing factory info from using the search, I was just hoping for some pics. Thanks in advance, Jake. I won't give you a blow by blow account because I do not know how your battery is secured, but I will give you generalizations. First of all, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable first. The reason being, you can't create an accidental short if you accidentally touch your wrench between the negative terminal and other metal on the truck. Naturally you must avoid having the wrench cross between the battery terminals. After you have disconnected the negative cable you can then disconnect the positive cable without fear of creating a short. Remove the nuts holding the tie down over the battery and remove and swap with like sized battery. Re-install the battery mount. Then reinstall the positive battery cable first and negative cable last. If your charging system is operating correctly it will be putting out 13.8 to 14.3 volts while running. I always check the system with a quality voltmeter rather than the gauge on the dash if your rig is so equipped. Take care not to make sparks around a charging battery, they can explode robustly. Safety Goggles are advisable when working around batteries.
jake1530 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Posted March 14, 2009 Thank you very much Hawghauler, I appreciate your time. I'm just nervous around electrcal stuff now since killing the computer years ago. Thanks again for your time and patience, Jake.
MarkD Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 A couple other points. It is a GREAT idea to disconnect the negative terminal first, this makes it easier to disconnect the positive. If you disconnect the positive first and your wrench touches metal, you will get arcs/sparks. On the GMT800 there is a brace for the front of the truck that goes over the battery. Remove this first. If I recall correctly, it has a 10 mm bolt at each end. When you remove the old battery, cover your fender to keep anything from falling/dripping off the battery onto your paint. If there is anything left in your battery tray (corrosion, leaves, etc) pour a coulple of ounces of coke/pepsi onto the battery tray, battery cables, and the battery hold down wedge and bolt, this will neutralize any battery acid/corrosion left on the tray. Let it sit for a minute or so, and rinse thoroughly with water. Install new battery, I highly recommend Optima (~$130). If the posts (5/16 inch) on your battery cables are rounded off, you can replace them for $3-$4 at most local parts stores. Dont forget to reinstall the brace over the battey.
ALange Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 Thank you very much Hawghauler, I appreciate your time. I'm just nervous around electrcal stuff now since killing the computer years ago. Thanks again for your time and patience, Jake. My pleasure. More good advice above. You can also use baking soda to neutralize battery acid and always clean the contacts before re installation. I've also heard great things about Optima batteries, but have been known to yield to the temptation of great prices at COSTCO or the like.
pm26 Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 I have had good luck with WalMart batteries and you can get one for your truck for about $ 70. There are only several automotive battery manufacturers in the US, so chances are that a Walmart brand battery is merely a relabeled DieHard, or some other battery brand. When buying a replacement battery, consider the cold cranking capacity and reserve capacity. The higher the numbers, the better. (Of course within your price range). If your truck battery has side terminals, make sure you do not cross thread the bolts into the new battery. About removing the brace above the battery: I would disconnect the negative cable first, then remove the cross brace to eliminate the possibility of accidentally touching the positive batery terminal with your wrench or ratchet.
Outbacker Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 And on the new battery, before you connect it all up, smear a dab of di-electric grease on the terminals before connecting the leads up. Helps prevent rust and crap from forming on the terminals. Plus the leads will go and remove easier.
Silverton Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 If there is anything left in your battery tray (corrosion, leaves, etc) pour a coulple of ounces of coke/pepsi onto the battery tray, battery cables, and the battery hold down wedge and bolt, this will neutralize any battery acid/corrosion left on the tray. Let it sit for a minute or so, and rinse thoroughly with water. Are you sure this is correct? Coke/pepsi are themselves acidic. Granted, not as strong as battery acid, but they are still fairly acidic, which is why some people use them to clean off bettery terminals, and I'm sure we've all heard the stories about cocke eating away tooth enamel, too. I doubt they are neutralizing anything very much, still should be extra careful. If you want to be sure to neutralize battery acid, use baking soda. Mix up some big spoonfuls in a cup of water and pour it in the battery tray, then sop it up.
PhilB Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 Another tip or two - wear gloves or disposable latex gloves, if possible, when lifting the battery out. And do not let the battery touch anything else - including your clothes. If there is any acid on the outside of the battery, even if you can't see it, it will eat through your clothes, paint, etch the concrete, etc.
MarkD Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 If there is anything left in your battery tray (corrosion, leaves, etc) pour a coulple of ounces of coke/pepsi onto the battery tray, battery cables, and the battery hold down wedge and bolt, this will neutralize any battery acid/corrosion left on the tray. Let it sit for a minute or so, and rinse thoroughly with water. Are you sure this is correct? Coke/pepsi are themselves acidic. Granted, not as strong as battery acid, but they are still fairly acidic, which is why some people use them to clean off bettery terminals, and I'm sure we've all heard the stories about cocke eating away tooth enamel, too. I doubt they are neutralizing anything very much, still should be extra careful. If you want to be sure to neutralize battery acid, use baking soda. Mix up some big spoonfuls in a cup of water and pour it in the battery tray, then sop it up. Works for me...and it always seems we have some around. Baking soda works well also, I always seem to be out though.
redvett Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 Make sure the ign. switch is off before un hooking the battery. Leaving ign. on will send a surge to the PCM and kill it.
jake1530 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Posted March 14, 2009 Thanks you guys, I appreciate you taking the time to help out, take care, Jake.
pm26 Posted March 15, 2009 Posted March 15, 2009 Make sure the ign. switch is off before un hooking the battery. Leaving ign. on will send a surge to the PCM and kill it. Excellent precaution. Somehow we always assume that nobody will leave the ignition on before disconnecting the battery.
brims Posted March 15, 2009 Posted March 15, 2009 +1 on the Optima, since my dad switched to Optimas in all of our older (70s) cars we have never had corrosion problems. Plus they have high cranking and cold cranking amp ratings and high reserve ratings. Hell they even work after having a bullet shot through them (according to Optima).
txab Posted March 15, 2009 Posted March 15, 2009 After your done with installing the battery and you're ready to start 'er up, I think you need to turn the key to run, engine off position and then wait a few minutes. I think the climate control system goes through a recalibration of blend doors and such. I know when I changed mine, I didn't wait. My system fired up in A/C position (should have been heat), high fan. It didn't work quite right after that, until I read about removing the cable from the battery for 10 or 15 minutes, then reinstalling it. Then with the key on, let it do it's thing of resetting the climate controls. Everything cleared up after that. Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.
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