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Epoxy Floor Paint


SuperChevy427

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Posted

Finally got my garage finished. Used Quickrete Epoxy Paint with Quickrete Clear Epoxy Top Coat, Extreme Garage cabinets, recessed lighting with diamond plate shop light and Chevy decals. It took over a month to complete but it was worth it!! Now it is the "SuperChevy Garage".

 

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Posted

That looks wicked. How slippery is the floor though, or is there some grit in the epoxy? Really nice.

Posted

nice, How about a How to? Thinking of doing my three car garage but the studs and carbides on my snowmobiles will likely eat up the finish. As of now it cuts lines in the concrete so I m not sure it would hold up so I was thinking of doing the rear section where the sleds don t go. What do you think? What was the cost and time?

Posted

Its all I can do to get my Extended Cab in my garage and close the door. I do however have a semi organized storeroom thats accessible from inside though.

 

Super good job on yours!

Posted

I used the RustOleum Professional Grade Epoxy with Pro-Grade Clearcoat with the anti-slip additive. I skipped the color chips though. I did it first in 2006 with the std grade epoxy and it started flaking off after 2 years so I re-did it with the Pro-Grade stuff last year and it is holding up much better and is MUCH harder. So far, so good, but if this doesn't hold up, next time I am going with floor tiles.

 

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Posted

Step 1 - Planning: None - Isn't that the best way??

Step 2 - Stripping off old Rustoleum that didn't even last six months without failing - $100 cost, TOO many hours

Step 3 - Painting Walls: $100 - 2 Days

Step 4 - Painting Foundation: $20 - 2 Hours

Step 5 - Casings: $115 - 1 Day

Step 6 - Preparing Floor: $20 - Weekend, Several applications of cleaning, mopping, scrubbing, power washing ARRRR ARRR ARRR to get that Rustoleum crap off of the floor completely

Step 7 - Red Paint: $50 - 1 Day, several applications

Step 8 - White Paint: $210 - 1 Day, lots of anxiety

Step 9 - Black Paint: $10 - 2 Hours

Step 10 - Chevy Bowtie Decal: $36 - 1 Hour

Step 11 - Clear Coat: $140 - 4 Hours - Included Non-Slip Additive

Step 12 - Cabinets: $510 - Several Days to Assemble and Install

Step 13 - Steps: $50 - 1 Day

Step 14 - Lighting & Recepticals: $150 - 2 Days in the Attic (Damn it was HOT)

Step 15 - Organizers: $60 - 2 Hours (Everything is LEVEL - my wife has a new Stanley level and she knows how to use it)

Step 16 - Stand Back and Drink a Beer - Satisfaction of knowing you did a great job - $PRICELESS$

 

I didn't do this alone. She said if I didn't give her credit....well....it was going to be BAD! :thumbs:

Posted
I used the RustOleum Professional Grade Epoxy with Pro-Grade Clearcoat with the anti-slip additive. I skipped the color chips though. I did it first in 2006 with the std grade epoxy and it started flaking off after 2 years so I re-did it with the Pro-Grade stuff last year and it is holding up much better and is MUCH harder. So far, so good, but if this doesn't hold up, next time I am going with floor tiles.

 

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Did you paint right over your existing rustoleum with the Pro-Grade? I am in the same boat and have been thinking of redoing mine (originally done in 05 with the reg rustoleum)

 

Thanks!

Posted

No we stripped all evidence of that product before we installed the Valspar Quickrete Epoxy product.

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Posted
I used the RustOleum Professional Grade Epoxy with Pro-Grade Clearcoat with the anti-slip additive. I skipped the color chips though. I did it first in 2006 with the std grade epoxy and it started flaking off after 2 years so I re-did it with the Pro-Grade stuff last year and it is holding up much better and is MUCH harder. So far, so good, but if this doesn't hold up, next time I am going with floor tiles.

 

Did you paint right over your existing rustoleum with the Pro-Grade? I am in the same boat and have been thinking of redoing mine (originally done in 05 with the reg rustoleum)

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

I pressure washed as much off as I could (it wasn't flaking too bad yet). I then prepped it and recoated with the Pro-Grade stuff. The std Rust-Oleum stuff is CRAP, it went on like a latex paint. The Pro-Grade went on like a thick epoxy (which it is) and was a bitch to clean-up. I can tell by the hardness of the clearcoat this will hold up much better. Make sure you use the Clearcoat though. It's a lot more expensive to use the Pro-Grade and then the Clearcoat, but it's worth it.

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