Jump to content

My Fogs Work With The Hi Beams! Do Yours!


Recommended Posts

Posted

All right everyone. I got it done. I used 1n4005 diode from radio shack soldered some extra wire onto the diode to make it long enough. From the pictures below you can see how it was done. I went from the 85 pin on the headlamp relay to the 85 pin on the fog relay. Now anytime the headlights are on the fogs automatically are on. I dont have to push the button to turn them on anymore.

HPIM0668.jpg

HPIM0672.jpg

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
does the dash indicator for the fogs still light up?

what happens when you push the button with this set-up?

 

 

The dash indicator does not light up.

The button is now only useful to turn the dash indicator light on. actually the button useful to turn the fogs on without turning your headlights on.

Posted

What's the point of having your "fog" lights on all the time, and HIDs for that matter, when you do most of your driving in the city.

Posted
What's the point of having your "fog" lights on all the time, and HIDs for that matter, when you do most of your driving in the city.

 

The fogs are only on at night, with the headlights. They do not come on with the DRL's.

Posted

My fogs go on with my lows and my highs :thumbs:

 

 

0106071714a.jpg

 

 

Got a kit off of mrtaillight.com It has all the pre wired / soldered relays , seperate power wire to batt so you are not putting more draw on your current....

 

IMO the best way to go..

 

 

EDIT- and i only use this on dark backroads, with no one coming towards me.... unless they have there bright on, then its game

Posted
All right everyone. I got it done. I used 1n4005 diode from radio shack soldered some extra wire onto the diode to make it long enough. From the pictures below you can see how it was done. I went from the 85 pin on the headlamp relay to the 85 pin on the fog relay. Now anytime the headlights are on the fogs automatically are on. I dont have to push the button to turn them on anymore.

HPIM0668.jpg

 

What type(solid or stranded?) and guage (14/16/18?) of extra copper wire did you use to solder onto the diode? How did you connect it to the respective 85 pins of the relays? Did you just wrap the loose ends of the wire around the pins or carefully solder the wire somehow to the pins as well? Lastly how did you choose the 1n4005 diode - I am not questioning that it is right more just curious so I can understand? I would like the mod as well but don't want it to be done half way on my part if you can clarify.

 

Also just to clarify the fog lights are on with this mod for low beam and/or high beam headlight use only. It will not come on with DRL or parking lights unless I manually use the button.

Posted
All right everyone. I got it done. I used 1n4005 diode from radio shack soldered some extra wire onto the diode to make it long enough. From the pictures below you can see how it was done. I went from the 85 pin on the headlamp relay to the 85 pin on the fog relay. Now anytime the headlights are on the fogs automatically are on. I dont have to push the button to turn them on anymore.

What type(solid or stranded?) and guage (14/16/18?) of extra copper wire did you use to solder onto the diode? How did you connect it to the respective 85 pins of the relays? Did you just wrap the loose ends of the wire around the pins or carefully solder the wire somehow to the pins as well? Lastly how did you choose the 1n4005 diode - I am not questioning that it is right more just curious so I can understand? I would like the mod as well but don't want it to be done half way on my part if you can clarify.

 

Also just to clarify the fog lights are on with this mod for low beam and/or high beam headlight use only. It will not come on with DRL or parking lights unless I manually use the button.

 

 

As far as the wire goes. I used solid wire. My dad has a lot of old TV components laying around and we just used some wire off some old capacitors that he had that was about the same sizer wire. We only used it as a way to extend the diode. Then covered it in heat shrink. I used the 1n4005 diode because thats what I used on my 05 SS silverado several years ago, and what he is currenly using on his 03 silverado. It has worked great without any problems so we used the same size. They are attached to the relay using fuse taps so that I was not jamming wires into the block and ruining anything.

FuseTap.jpg

 

We did have to bend them a little bit, but it was not a big deal. Then we soldered the wire to the taps hooked them on the 85 pin on each relay and it worked. We did have to figure out which one pin 85 was on the block because the relays are labeled but work no matter which way they are placed in the block.

 

As far when they work. When your headlights are on the fogs will automatically come on. You can still use the button to turn the fogs on with the DRL's/Parking lamps.

 

PLEASE NOTE: The relays may not be in your block the same way mine appear in the picture. As the relays will work no matter which way they are plugged in. I noted the position on the block as to which pin the taps are connected to. I made sure that my pin 85 was the one plugged into that location.

HPIM06681copy.jpg

Posted

While that may be a cool mod, many states prohibit having more than 4 forward facing lights illuminated at any one time when driving on roads. WA law doesn't allow for more than 4 lights on at a time.

Posted
All right everyone. I got it done. I used 1n4005 diode from radio shack soldered some extra wire onto the diode to make it long enough. From the pictures below you can see how it was done. I went from the 85 pin on the headlamp relay to the 85 pin on the fog relay. Now anytime the headlights are on the fogs automatically are on. I dont have to push the button to turn them on anymore.

What type(solid or stranded?) and guage (14/16/18?) of extra copper wire did you use to solder onto the diode? How did you connect it to the respective 85 pins of the relays? Did you just wrap the loose ends of the wire around the pins or carefully solder the wire somehow to the pins as well? Lastly how did you choose the 1n4005 diode - I am not questioning that it is right more just curious so I can understand? I would like the mod as well but don't want it to be done half way on my part if you can clarify.

 

Also just to clarify the fog lights are on with this mod for low beam and/or high beam headlight use only. It will not come on with DRL or parking lights unless I manually use the button.

 

 

As far as the wire goes. I used solid wire. My dad has a lot of old TV components laying around and we just used some wire off some old capacitors that he had that was about the same sizer wire. We only used it as a way to extend the diode. Then covered it in heat shrink. I used the 1n4005 diode because thats what I used on my 05 SS silverado several years ago, and what he is currenly using on his 03 silverado. It has worked great without any problems so we used the same size. They are attached to the relay using fuse taps so that I was not jamming wires into the block and ruining anything.

FuseTap.jpg

 

We did have to bend them a little bit, but it was not a big deal. Then we soldered the wire to the taps hooked them on the 85 pin on each relay and it worked. We did have to figure out which one pin 85 was on the block because the relays are labeled but work no matter which way they are placed in the block.

 

As far when they work. When your headlights are on the fogs will automatically come on. You can still use the button to turn the fogs on with the DRL's/Parking lamps.

 

PLEASE NOTE: The relays may not be in your block the same way mine appear in the picture. As the relays will work no matter which way they are plugged in. I noted the position on the block as to which pin the taps are connected to. I made sure that my pin 85 was the one plugged into that location.

HPIM06681copy.jpg

 

 

First off thank you for the details it is most helpful as I plan to visit Fry's and/or Radioshack shortly to get the goods. Also thanks for the fuse tap info. Any particular size you purchase for the fuse taps? Going from your picture above with arrows you lined up your 85 pins as follows:

 

Headlamp relay 85 pin is lower left side and

Foglamp relay 85 pin is upper left side.

I know it is not upper/lower but using the pic as a way to get correct locations. Thanks again in advance for your information.

Posted
All right everyone. I got it done. I used 1n4005 diode from radio shack soldered some extra wire onto the diode to make it long enough. From the pictures below you can see how it was done. I went from the 85 pin on the headlamp relay to the 85 pin on the fog relay. Now anytime the headlights are on the fogs automatically are on. I dont have to push the button to turn them on anymore.

What type(solid or stranded?) and guage (14/16/18?) of extra copper wire did you use to solder onto the diode? How did you connect it to the respective 85 pins of the relays? Did you just wrap the loose ends of the wire around the pins or carefully solder the wire somehow to the pins as well? Lastly how did you choose the 1n4005 diode - I am not questioning that it is right more just curious so I can understand? I would like the mod as well but don't want it to be done half way on my part if you can clarify.

 

Also just to clarify the fog lights are on with this mod for low beam and/or high beam headlight use only. It will not come on with DRL or parking lights unless I manually use the button.

 

 

As far as the wire goes. I used solid wire. My dad has a lot of old TV components laying around and we just used some wire off some old capacitors that he had that was about the same sizer wire. We only used it as a way to extend the diode. Then covered it in heat shrink. I used the 1n4005 diode because thats what I used on my 05 SS silverado several years ago, and what he is currenly using on his 03 silverado. It has worked great without any problems so we used the same size. They are attached to the relay using fuse taps so that I was not jamming wires into the block and ruining anything.

FuseTap.jpg

 

We did have to bend them a little bit, but it was not a big deal. Then we soldered the wire to the taps hooked them on the 85 pin on each relay and it worked. We did have to figure out which one pin 85 was on the block because the relays are labeled but work no matter which way they are placed in the block.

 

As far when they work. When your headlights are on the fogs will automatically come on. You can still use the button to turn the fogs on with the DRL's/Parking lamps.

 

PLEASE NOTE: The relays may not be in your block the same way mine appear in the picture. As the relays will work no matter which way they are plugged in. I noted the position on the block as to which pin the taps are connected to. I made sure that my pin 85 was the one plugged into that location.

HPIM06681copy.jpg

 

 

First off thank you for the details it is most helpful as I plan to visit Fry's and/or Radioshack shortly to get the goods. Also thanks for the fuse tap info. Any particular size you purchase for the fuse taps? Going from your picture above with arrows you lined up your 85 pins as follows:

 

Headlamp relay 85 pin is lower left side and

Foglamp relay 85 pin is upper left side.

I know it is not upper/lower but using the pic as a way to get correct locations. Thanks again in advance for your information.

 

 

Yes you are correct in the location as it relates to the picture. I just used fuse taps that fit around the pins of the relays. They were a snug fit. I beleive they are the ones that are for the size fuse. Hope all this helps.

Posted

More importantly anyone doing this needs to be sure to get the anode/cathode sides of the diode correct or this won't work. A diode is kind of the electrical equivalent of a check valve for those who don't know. You want current from the headlight relay to the fog relay and not visa versa.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...