Leaderboard

True. Not unlike venturing to www.heartattack.com and raising a poll with the question " Have you had a heart attack?" "I doubt that class action suit will get anywhere also. They rarely do." The lawyers will clear 20 or 30 million and the claimants will each receive a coupon for a BOGO half off meatless Whopper.

I hope everyone had a good Easter weekend. We had planned to have relatives share a roast beef supper with us but as mentioned before, they are home with Covid. It is good that we can share a meal with others and yet people won't hesitate to stay home if they are sick. We aren't past covid, we are living with covid. Last night I spoke on the phone with a past colleague as we occasionally do on special occasions. She is very involved with her church and I had assumed her day would have been special now that everything has "opened up". It turns out she is more worried and isolated than ever and has spent far too many days by herself! I wonder how many are like her? These are seniors, living alone without immediate family and not in a designated seniors' facility. I suspect most of us know a relative or friend in this group who may benefit from our time. It is a most rewarding experience to give your time to someone who needs it!

That guy is a troll. He rarely knows what he's talking about. The Bose sounds pretty good for an OEM system. OP they make a kicker sub that is plug and play for our trucks, I'm sure it fits the 22 too. It allows the doors to play less bass and cleans them up.

I choose the 3.0 because I drive 60+miles a day to work, needed a new truck that was fuel efficient and didn’t need a 3/4 ton.

I wish I would have posted this hours ago. There are 4 torx head bolts (2 hidden) that I thought were rivets. Take all 4 put an pop up and it came right off. Thanks for the kick in the right direction @mikeyk101

My LT has Bose, so a bit confused there?

Exactly! Its the same people who believe a mask stops you from getting sick when you can still smell swamp ass and farts through your masks that believe these lifter failure ratss.

Next year with the 10 Speed , the new gasser should be even more stout.

Hi All, new to the forum here and excited about purchasing my first truck! I have put a deposit down on a 2021 RST with 5.3L Vortec with DFM (I verified this on the sticker that it has DFM). I also checked the build code on the door jam and it says Feb 2021. The car has about 11k miles and from the carfax report it has 3 service records inlcuding oil changes. Car was first bought in michigan and it made it to my local MA dealer via auction. It is CPO and I feel pretty good about that but now to the lifter spring question. There is a service note on that model and the manufacture date fits inside the service manufacture date to replace potentially faulty lifter springs. Question is, do I raise this to the dealer before delivery and ask that it be done or just drive the car off and be ok with the fact that I have an extended CPO warranty for 100k miles and 6 years (I am unlikely to reach both as owner). I am not sure how I feel about techs fidling with thiese parts of the engine for an essentially brand new truck but also concerned to just be left stranded one day (something which could happen with any car) but this is a specific known issue. Any advise is appreciated.

My mother in law. Prior to Covid, sang in the church choir and back up piano player. During and after got a dog walks dog twice a day in her subdivision. Every one knows her some walk with her. She quit driving wouldn’t go anywhere. She has meal on wheels and my wife does her shopping. She drops by 5 days a week. Covid fear changed her, the continued talk about a new wave keeps the fear in her. Doesn’t matter if it’s as deadly or not. Hearing Covid is all it takes. My 92 year old father in law on the other hand. After having Covid and the shots he never changed a thing.

Does your trailer socket have the 2 camera doors at the top? How does the camera work on the other trucks you attach to? Does it power from the 7 way? Votre prise de remorque a-t-elle les 2 portes de caméra en haut ? Comment fonctionne la caméra sur les autres camions auxquels vous vous attachez ? Est-ce qu'il est alimenté par la 7ème voie ?

The system fit in nicely. I’m happy with it. In fact I often turn off the radio just to listen to the exhaust. It’s not as loud which to me got obnoxious quick for my daily driver. The “j pipe” and tuning from this system I believe is going to remove as much in cab freeway drone as you are going to get and have a high flowing performance exhaust. I thought I was going to have to put my stock muffler back in but this is nice… classy truck sounding. I don’t run a pulsar with dfm disabled but when I don’t want to hear dfm I put it in L9 and sport mode and enjoy the 6.2L.

Cool, I’m in Lansing

About $2 at Lowe's for this 2.5" cap with worm/hose clamp. Don't need the clamp.

This is not my YouTube channel nor do I know him. He has a few of these videos.

As I posted somewhere back in this thread, mine has quit making the noise. I even used electronic hearing protection to amplify the sound, just to make sure. And now, looking at the pic's just posted, I'm guessing with constant metal to metal wear, mine just wore down on its own. Warm weather should be here soon, and I'll listen for it again.

Picked up my Denali (6.2, Denali Reserve Package, Painted Wheel Arches) on 3/24. Windows have been tinted and bed cover is in the garage ready to be put on in the next couple weeks.

The pumps can start to make more noise when they are dying too. Can also check to see if the bracket the pump is bolted to is not loose and rattling.

It has to be said again! these new interiors are so nice! The Gauge cluster is perfect. GM heard the interior complaints loud and well . Now can we get that 475 HP 6.2 engine update ? And while were at it can we get the 5.3 to 400HP ?

I lose more fuel mileage in the city than on the freeway. Gets about 12-13 around town on E60+ and can still do 20mpg on long freeway trips. Regular fuel gets 14-16mpg and 22ish. These are all summer numbers because I do not run that fuel in the winter, gets way too cold here for that.

I agree GM has a problem. specially with removing features, now they have even got away with the side mirror turn signal blinker. Less features and more money for their vehicles. Disappointing.

Based on this forum, ride quality is going to be the least of your problems.

Ha! I wish. Here in SoCal, BEFORE the war in Ukraine I would do that trick and it was usually slightly over $100. At over $6/gal, I'm afraid it'll be closer to 1/4 tank to play that game.

That works with any vehicle I’ve owned. Depending on vehicle I can gain 2 mpg going 70 instead of 72 because of drag. I generally still go 72. In town I generally get 2 miles per gallon better than my wife she idles more than me. It doesn’t matter what vehicle. I watch traffic flow better and I’m not a brake slammer. I found out recently she’s more of an aggressive driver. I never knew.

@RedLT @TA^Guy - Yes! The dash is a momentary switch sending ground to the BCM. And great news, all the info I found in the docs is correct and I was able to get it to work I got way ahead of my self and ordered all my stuff before even testing it out, but it was worth it in the end. I hate splicing oem wires so I went a little over board. Here's what I used: 7-way Harness splitter to tap into the trailer 12v power and Ground https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BMNLX6S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9T8ZKHTT2KFH8JA21CHK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Momentary Button for the bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6TY9JD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_AWRDX4FK7HCXT66F1DBF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Spool of wire, and I used it all https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NV0FGU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wire loom to protect the wire. Almost used it all. Still have about 1-2 feet left https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GN6QCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And some extra stuff I had laying around Electrical tape 22 gauge solid wire heat shrink I'd love to give credit to a post about running wire through the firewall but I can't seem to find it anymore. I went through the the rubber grommet on the driver side. I used my smallest drill bit to manually hand drill a hole. Then shoved a clothes hanger with the wire taped to it. I found it inside under the steering wheel behind a thick foam pad. The clothes hanger helped me find it quick since it was poking out and pushing on the foam piece. I then ran the wire loom (with wire already in it) from the engine bay down to the frame then to the back. This took the longest and there's a few paths to take. I spent too much time making it pretty and zip ties. I avoided hot parts and exhaust. I should have jacked up the rear end or something, but I crawled underneath instead and man am I sore today. It's a very tight squeeze (for me). And make sure to underbody wash before you start. I live where the roads are salted white and I had a lot of salt falling on my face. Not pleasant. So I ran wires down, hugging the frame and zip tied to another harness already going towards the bed. I got to the rear fender and ran wires up behind the tail light and continued to the hand grab and wired up my switch. I removed the rubber plug (19mm) and put my switch in there. A little ugly in plain view looking into the hand grab... but no one looks down there. The rubber grommet picture is the passenger side, but the same grommet is on the driver side. Then I zip tied the 7-way splitter under the hitch and ran the wires behind the driver tail light. The 12V from the 7-way is hot so I didn't plug in the harness until I finished all my connections. The 7-way harness is bit pricey since it's a full kit to add a 5th wheel connection to the bed, but I rather cut that than my factory harness. So at the tail light, I cut the end off of the 7-way to expose the 7 wires: Black is hot and White is ground. Part 2 for me will be adding more lights to the bed so that hot lead will come in handy later. I taped and heat shrink all wires. But took the white wire from the 7-way and connected that to the other side of the new momentary switch. The switch now has the one wire going to the cab and the second wire connected to the 7-way white wire for Ground. Sorry no pictures I was tired and frustrated after crawling under the truck for a few hours trying to get my hand in tight places for the zip ties... and forgot to document it all. Lastly, I found my X2 plug. It's blue and pins increment from left to right. I counted backwards from pin 22 and arrived at the grey pin 18 as mentioned in the GM upfitter PDF. More credit to another post that said to solder the wire to a smaller solid wire so I soldered the 16 gauge stranded to 22 solid and shoved it into Pin 18. WORKS GREAT Here is the end result: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3r3LZts9s6UP97NW6. And I'm very happy I now ordered some lights, a relay, and some connector pieces for part 2. Yes, I hate splicing into factory wires so I had to figure out the bed light connectors/adapters so I can cut into my own wires and not the trucks. This will be for another day, hopefully warm and sunny so I can work outside... with no salt falling on my face Lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KKR6DZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D8TSMFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MCON 1.2 parts to tap into cargo bed lights

I have a thread started with something similar. I have this wobble mostly when i go over a bump and brake. It was really bad before i did my brakes. I did new rotors and pads, its better but not gone. I have gotten new calipers becasue I suspect it to be something with slide pins sticking. I have greased them and they look fine, but i have hard time turning wheel with truck up (spinning). It should spin freely. So i think when i go over bums and brake the fact they are already clamped some that they are having different rotations than each other and thus the wobble. After i change the calipers i will post back on my reply see if it was it. But i would check your calipers, and/or pins.

You know those calls you get about your extended warranty? Try them out for size

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash. Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door. Added dynamat to doors. Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers.

That doesn't sound right. If it truly was that high something is wrong. I would think it would have thrown a code. How long of a drive in the deep snow?

I usually backup to trailer and get aligned to trailer hookup, shut truck off, hook up trailer and chains, then plug in electrical, and finally camera. These cameras don't like a hot hookup where the truck is running or communications bus is alive.

Ask once and you shall receive. Outer Tie Rod nut: First Pass: (26 ft.lbs.) Final Pass: (85–100 degrees) Upper control arm to frame nuts/bolts (torque spec made on the nut not the bolt head): 192 ft.lbs. Upper Ball Joint Nut: 37 ft.lbs. Lower control arm to frame nuts/bolts (torque spec made on the nut not the bolt head) You need new bolts for the arm to frame on the lower control arms they are a one time use bolt. : 129 ft.lbs. Lower Ball Joint Nut: First Pass: (37 ft.lbs.) Final Pass: (90–100 degrees) Stabilizer Bar Link Nut: 17 ft.lbs. Shock Absorber Upper Nut (torque spec made on the nut not the bolt head): 48 ft.lbs. Shock Absorber Lower Nut (torque spec made on the nut not the bolt head): 89 ft.lbs.

Well, at 81k add me to the list of transmissions going bad. AFM was still in play so I'm thinking that was the issue from what I have researched. Fluid changes were done so that isn't the issue on this problem. Several transmission shops I contacted stated they have seem them come in like mine anywhere from 30k, 40k and up. Seems to be another great GM engineering fail. Yes there are those out that are at 200k plus, But for me the way I take care of things, I was hoping to be one of those. Like on my 2002 Silverado that had over 200k on it with no issues other than a bad alternator at 135K. It still had the original front brake pads when I sold it.

So torque converter failure? If so, even fluid changes can't solve that problem. Not using AFM can help it but they are still prone to failure someday.