davester

The vacuum in an intake manifold isn't nearly enough to make water boil at room temp. And while these products appear clear, they shouldn't have that much water in them. Also, given a high enough vacuum, even oil will boil at room temp (or rather, various components of oil will boil off at different levels of vacuum). And I think you'll find those products (seafoam, etc) are much less effective, if not completely ineffective, if they go through your engine from evaporation rather than atomization. The concentration will be much lower via evaporation, as well as different components of the product will evaporate at different rates. Simply put, pouring the products in their liquid form into your intake isn't a particularly good thing to do.

Spraying it in, should be fine, as the spray should largely be atomized, and it doesn't put in the raw volume of liquid that pouring it in would. But, depending on the location of the vacuum line, you may not get coverage of all the cylinders...

Are you sure about this? I know for my truck, 6.0l LQ4, the intake design would just store a bunch of liquid in it (as in, when I took it off, I poured a bunch of oil out of it as I turned it over). Pouring a liquid into the intake would just sit in it, until either enough was poured in so it would run into the intake ports in the heads (or back out the front of the intake manifold) [note: pouring enough in to get liquid into the heads intake ports would be a bad thing, as starting the engine, the liquid flows into the cylinder and you can hydraulically lock the engine], or short of that, it would evaporate or movement of the truck would result in some getting splashed into the intake ports. The vacuum in the intake won't atomize anything, as the air will just flow over the surface of the liquid, and perhaps some of the liquid will evaporate over time, but that's it. And just evaporation isn't a great thing, as it takes quite some time (so it's very slow), and the different compounds in the product will evaporate at different rates or not at all. If you want it to be effective, you want to use a spray can to atomize it, and get it into the intake as the truck is running. IIRC, a spray can of seafoam I bought had a long, U-shaped nozzle extension, so I could insert the extension into the intake and put the intake hose from the MAF back on, over it so very little extra air could get in.

Nice job.

All the bolts are present in both exhaust manifolds? It's common for the bolts to break off over time, and the exhaust can actually suck clean air in, which makes the O2 sensors read lean...

It was my understanding that, at least in the past, 2500's generally had a gvwr just under 10k lbs, and 3500's went over that, but both the 2500's and 3500's shared mostly the same parts.

It's probably just an licensing limit . Vehicles with a lower rating will have lower tax/licensing fee's to pay in some juridictions. If you need more, you get a 3500, and you pay the higher fee's.

No idea on the gas. If they are hooked up in parallel, then there's no need to do anything special for the alternator, as it charges them both at the same time.

From posts on another forum I frequent, the Duramax's have dual batteries hooked in parallel, so they charge/discharge at the same time. It's not a "main battery/auxiliary battery" situation. They both are the "main battery".

If your OCD, you have to drop the pan and wipe it out, remove and empty the oil pump, change the filter, blow out the oil cooler lines, then reassemble the engine and fill it with the right stuff. Run the engine a bit, drain the oil, change the filter again, and refill with oil. Maybe once more, because there probably are still a few molecules of the bad oil still in there...

Don't know what to make of this. You had a mechanic look at it, and he could see black marks on the heads where it appeared that exhaust was coming out, but he couldn't look on the other side of the manifold to see if the bolt heads were still there (as when the bolts break the head end of it typically falls out),

No, I think the O.P. wants the rear door to just open further. The GMT800's extended cab rear doors would swing out maybe 110-130 degrees or so, while with newer models, the rear door will open up almost 180 degrees (or at least, noticeably more than the GMT800 doors). Anyway, I would expect it to take a fair amount of fabbing. I know the hinges to the front door are welded both to the cab and the door, the extended door is probably similarly welded, Trying to use newer hinges in the older door/cab would be a trial and error thing, as both the cab and the door are significantly different.

Why not just replace the transmission line yourself? Much cheaper, and not particularly hard to do...

could be a problem with the thermostat, or radiator fins aren't clean, or you've put some bling up front that reduces airflow through the rad, or some of the ducting up front is missing (that directs air to the radiators), or water pump isn't pushing enough water (problem with the impeller in the pump)

nice shill post

No.

I would say it's more likely a problem with the front diff actuator, as the sensor in the transfer case is what commands it to lock/unlock. It's my understanding a signal from the actuator is what turns the 4wd light on/off.

what you are in 2hi, and the 4wd light is on, stopped in park, reach under the truck and try to turn the front driveshaft (between the transfer case and the front diff). If you can't spin it, then it (most likely) could be the 4wd sensor in the transfer case, or a wiring problem between it and the actuator in the front diff, or the actuator in the front diff If you can spin it, then (most likely) it could the actuator in the front diff or wiring problem between it and the instrument panel.

I would just take out the chain if I had no money, or replace the chain, rather than swapping everything out. As for doing the swap, I would suggest getting out a tape measure, and measure from where the transmission mounts to the engine, back to the u-joint on the rear diff, for both trucks, If it's the same, then you can swap them without needing to hack up the driveshaft.

Definitely not identical. Body lines are noticeably different, would also expect the frame mounting points and the overall width and length to be at least a little different as well, As for close enough to make work, that depends entirely on your fabbing skills and what you will find acceptable.

helminc.com, amazon.com, ebay.com

I used to buy Haynes manuals, but after a couple, I realized they are mostly just generic info, with not a lot of vehicle-specific info in them. After getting the FSM for my '04 Sierra (about 5000 pages), while the set of books cost a good bundle of money, it's saved me way more, either in money if I have someone else fix it, or in time trying to fix it blind. Same with tools and equipment, I can pay someone else to use their stuff, or buy it myself and it's generally paid for the first time I use it. I got the paper version of the FSM, as I don't like using a computer while working on vehicles, but the online version is probably indexed and cross referenced better (as the paper version has me jumping around various spots in the manual doing a repair) and is cheaper up front. The other thing I would suggest you get, assuming you want to keep your vehicle for some time, and want to fix/work on it yourself, is get a good code reader for it. Not one of those cheap handheld jobs that can read just a couple of systems in the truck, but one that can access all of them. For my truck, I got Autogenuity w gm enhancement, and it can get codes from all the systems in my truck (there's about 15 or so), as well as perform a bunch of diagnostic and repair functions (from injector leak-down tests, to bleeding the abs system, to commanding various components to be on or off (to identify if a problem is before or after the computer, or the computer itself). Main thing it can't do is flash the computers. Other people have bought the gm tools (tech ii for my generation truck or a little newer, need a different gm device for newer vehicles such as yours), which is really the gold standard.

Thanks for posting this, as it's likely to help someone else in the future (well, hopefully it will). Electrical problems like this suck to find. But, if you want to save some money and figure out problems like this yourself, I suggest getting a subscription to the full-service manual for your truck. It's not particularly expensive, and has things like the wiring diagram for your truck, where power and ground points are, pinouts on connectors, routing of harnesses, and more. And personally, I find using a more advanced electrical tester (I have an Autel PowerScan PS100) also helps with diagnosing electrical issues, as it can test both for power & ground, as well as a/c, provide power or gnd, test resistance, and comes with a nice long cord (it needs 12V to work, so you hook it to your battery or plug it into the cigarette lighter).

That's the same thing I got from the gm dealer here when I added 4wd to my truck. Don't know a cross-match, but they seemed slightly tapered. I got the two bushings from my parts truck, by using a drill with about a 1/4" bit, and drilling right in the edge between the bushing & the frame, then once through to the other side, letting the drill bit walk around the bushing. This released the bushing from the frame, with no significant damage. Then hammered it into the frame a bit with a tube on the rubber (from the inside of the frame, as the hole on the outside of the frame is smaller). So far, it's been in my truck for 3 years or so, and working fine. So, I would suggest getting it from a junkyard, with a drill and a hammer (to get it out after drilling).

Huh, I smell a shill... Just happened make a new account to post a brand spanking new amazon link after you got punted off for promoting your website?