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I've always thought the rear headrests were awful short and stubby in my 2016 Sierra Denali Crew Cab. For adult passengers and my kids once they are tall enough, I wanted a better option. After digging around in here I noticed that in pics of double/extended cabs the rear headrests were different and looked taller than my crew cab headrests. There are a few options on ebay and I found rear headrests from a double cab that match my black leather interior. Thought I'd show comparison pics of the crew cab headrests vs the double/extended cab headrests. You get about an inch more of coverage, so nothing spectacular but it is more. Headrests in good shape ranged from $50-$200 in my ebay search, so it all depends on how much you want to pay for the additional head coverage. Next on the to do list will be to add notches down the steel leg mounts to have them stay higher than the factory notches. I did notice the double/extended cab headrests stay locked in position much better than the crew cab ones. Why? I have no idea, but the crew cab ones would fall down even when going over a slight bump in the road. In the last pic I just slid the crew cab headrest legs behind the middle seat to have something there. It stays in position pretty good, won't be able to extend up but it doesn't move at all while driving.

I have found the FIX for broken rear camera cables. I broke my rear trailer camera and was able to replace the connector with a new connector setup. Works well and if your handy you can do it yourself for under 40 bucks!!! Contact me for parts and cost information… email [email protected]

2020 Sierra SLT This morning I noticed a buzzing noise coming from the rear of the cab. The sound came from the right bottom of the rear window. The buzzing stops when I turned the rear defroster off. Turned the rear defroster back on, the buzzing started again. Has anyone else had, or noticed, this problem? I tried to find a connecter to see if it was loose but couldn't find it. I don't think it's affected the performance of the defroster, at least not yet. I figure it'll require a trip to my dealership's service department, which I'm not a huge fan of. Thanks for your time, DC

I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???

Im wondering what issue would cause the rear wheel cylinder ears that hold the brake pads, to shear off? I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD 4.8L with rear drumbrakes. I replaced the rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes on both sides. After 5-10 minuets of driving, i had extremely loud squealing from the rear when braking to a stop. I took off the drums to check and saw that the passenger side wheel cylinder ears had sheared right off, but only on the outside of the truck, not inside ears. The shoe that is towards the front of the truck also was pushed out towards the inside of the drum and was rubbing on the inside facing where the hub sits so that must be what was causing the squealing. But i dont understand what would cause such a force to shear the wheel cylinder ears right off. Drum out of round? Before i replaced the shoes, both passenger and driver side shoes towards the front were almost to the metal shoe backing plate, so thats why i replaced them.

I have a 2009 Avalanche, both rear windows wont operate with the front or individual switches. I replaced the main driver side switch with no success, I checked all the wires and fuse box on driver side. Any ideas?

2019 2500HD Duramax diesel. What is the OEM spec for the rear axle leaf spring u-bolts? I am installing longer shackles to drop the rear. I have seen so many different answers on other posts.

Hello again, everyone. Back here with another update of yet another unlock that has been discovered for the HMI - Rear Camera in Motion! This one has been pretty sought after and I'm very excited to be able to offer it to the community here. This unlock can be performed on any 2014 - 2018 GM truck that has a rear camera installed. It requires the use of an additional harness which I provide. This unlock places a "Camera" application on the screen of the HMI which allows the user to view the rear camera for 25 seconds while the vehicle is driving. This is perfect for checking on your trailer connections while on the road or just viewing any obstacles behind you. Please see the video demo below and feel free to send me a PM if you're interested in adding this to your vehicle. Thanks for looking.

I have a 99 Silverado 1500 4.8L standard cab manual. Recently, just after making a turn (both left or right) from a stop or slow roll, I sometimes hear a loud, brief buzz on the drivers side somewhere behind me, just a second or two after pressing the accelerator (normal, not hot rodding). It sounds electronic or hydraulic. Has happened in both 1st and 2nd gear. It’s not a vibration, grind, or constant hum. It sounds similar to but much louder than the sound made by new vehicles when you engage the electronic parking brake. It’s hard to tell exactly where it’s coming from, maybe near the fuel tank but not the fuel pump. Everything seems to be working normal and nothing looks broken or out of place underneath. Anyone have any idea what this is?

I've seen this done on dually rear fenders but cant seem to find them for sale. any advise?

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

Hey all, I have a 1995 Sierra K3500 with a 14 bolt 10.5'' 4.10 30 spline rear, but it's not a posi and I'm looking to make it one the cheapest way possible. My father had a 1978 K30 with the exact same rear (14 bolt 10.5'' 4.10 30 spline) but with a posi. He ended up swapping it out with a open diff. Currently that posi unit is sitting at my Grandma's house in the shed and I'm wondering if I can use that. It is completely stock with the 4.10 still on it. So, I'm wondering if I could just take my current diff out of the cover and place the '78 unit in there no problem or is there more to it/not even possible? I'm not too familiar with rears so I'm not sure if the 17 year gap between the 2 trucks make a big difference in terms of rears. Thanks, Hawk.