Jump to content

Wheel Backspace W/ 6" Lift


Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you running 35" tires with a 6" lift, what wheel backspace are you running? I was thinking of 35x12.50/18 tires, I know many of you run this set-up and wanted to see what the common wheel backspace was. (any pictures from the front would be appreciated as well). I was thinking of an 18x10 wheel with a 4.5 backspace, but this may stick out to far. Also, would there be any major trimming on that set up?

Posted
For those of you running 35" tires with a 6" lift, what wheel backspace are you running? I was thinking of 35x12.50/18 tires, I know many of you run this set-up and wanted to see what the common wheel backspace was. (any pictures from the front would be appreciated as well). I was thinking of an 18x10 wheel with a 4.5 backspace, but this may stick out to far. Also, would there be any major trimming on that set up?

 

 

thats gonna be tight man. my buddy has a 3/4 d-max with a 6 inch lift runnin 35x12.50 R 17, his rub bigtime...also the more backspace you have does not give you more clearance it gives you less...thats a big myth. cuz your wheel arc doesnt change. my advice is go one size down on the rims and you still might have too trim...their is lots of room in behind the wheel its in front and on the new chevys their isnt much room too trim much the fender comes pretty close too ur wheel well. or get a 6.5" high clearance BDS lift...its basically a 7 inch lift. your torsion bars dont drop and you get that xtra 1 inch. without having too change driveshaft angles and all that other crap after 6 inch. 6-7 is the magic number man. but if you like hackin up a brand new pick-up givver with the 18's lol, best of luck

Posted
For those of you running 35" tires with a 6" lift, what wheel backspace are you running? I was thinking of 35x12.50/18 tires, I know many of you run this set-up and wanted to see what the common wheel backspace was. (any pictures from the front would be appreciated as well). I was thinking of an 18x10 wheel with a 4.5 backspace, but this may stick out to far. Also, would there be any major trimming on that set up?

 

 

thats gonna be tight man. my buddy has a 3/4 d-max with a 6 inch lift runnin 35x12.50 R 17, his rub bigtime...also the more backspace you have does not give you more clearance it gives you less...thats a big myth. cuz your wheel arc doesnt change. my advice is go one size down on the rims and you still might have too trim...their is lots of room in behind the wheel its in front and on the new chevys their isnt much room too trim much the fender comes pretty close too ur wheel well. or get a 6.5" high clearance BDS lift...its basically a 7 inch lift. your torsion bars dont drop and you get that xtra 1 inch. without having too change driveshaft angles and all that other crap after 6 inch. 6-7 is the magic number man. but if you like hackin up a brand new pick-up givver with the 18's lol, best of luck

 

 

Thanks Chevyboy86, I will keep that in mind. BTW, forgot to mention that it is for a GMT900 1500 CC. Anyone Else?

Posted

More backspacing will make a huge difference. Wheel wells are designed for a specific turning radias, and the further you push the wheels/tires outward, the more likely you are to rub. This is why some can run a 35x12.50 18 with 5.5" bs with little or no rubbing and someone running the same setup with 4.5" bs will have major rubbing issues. You could run a 35/12.50/18, but I would choose a wheel no wider than 9" and with about 5.5" bs. And you will still likely trim.

Posted
More backspacing will make a huge difference. Wheel wells are designed for a specific turning radias, and the further you push the wheels/tires outward, the more likely you are to rub. This is why some can run a 35x12.50 18 with 5.5" bs with little or no rubbing and someone running the same setup with 4.5" bs will have major rubbing issues. You could run a 35/12.50/18, but I would choose a wheel no wider than 9" and with about 5.5" bs. And you will still likely trim.

 

So it would be safe to say the best bet would be 35x12.50/18 with a 18x9 wheel +18mm offset (5.71 backspace) would have little or no trimming? Pulling back the plastic a little would be fine, just don't want to hack it up or trim metal.

Posted
I went with a 18x9 with a 5" backspace and it worked out perfectly.

 

 

There you go right there ^.

 

 

Thanks Guys, Thats what i plan now, 18x9 with 5 backspacing, think im gonna go with the KMC Diesel's.

 

@Blackout07 what are the details of your BDS lift, did you get just the Block or Block +add-a-leaf or spring pack? the local shop said that the block is better and more firm than the block + add-a-leaf but i thought the block + add-a-leaf was better?

Posted
@Blackout07 what are the details of your BDS lift, did you get just the Block or Block +add-a-leaf or spring pack? the local shop said that the block is better and more firm than the block + add-a-leaf but i thought the block + add-a-leaf was better?

 

 

6" High Clearance with block and AAL. The AAL will definately firm things up and my truck sits perfectly level. So I would assume that they would use a taller block if you opt out on the AAL, so I wouldn't go that route. Either that or you will be sitting pretty "Cali."

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...