Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On ‎11‎/‎23‎/‎2009 at 5:52 PM, famouslee99gt said:

I pulled the sensor on the passenger side and cleaned it up, came out ok, and wasn't all that dirty. It had 3 shims on it, in which i left all 3 on, but cleaned them all up. Before I even left the driveway, abs kicked in again. I pulled the fuse until I can get it to the dealer because I have had many close calls and it's getting annoying. Last night when I came home from work, just perfect, no issues....Today, I drove 1 mile over to my grandparents and it did it about 2 or 3 times that I had to slow down to stop.

Did you ever get any solution on this abs problem? I'm having it with my 2004 GMC.thanks in advance!

 

Posted (edited)

I have had this problem on both my GMT400 vehicles and both times it was the wheel bearings.  The first time I went through all the same stuff looking at TSBs, cleaning the wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces, checking voltage, etc.  Then I saw a post from a senior GM tech on this forum telling everyone to stop wasting time and check their wheel bearings.  Pull the hub, grab the bearing and see if it's sloppy.  Sure enough.  The second time I went straight to the hubs and found the same thing.  Any solution to this problem should include an inspection of the wheel bearings, especially for those of us on the west coast where corrosion isn't such an issue.

Edited by bronyaur
Posted

Thank you Matt for taking the time to respond with valueable information to save me money and time to solve my truck issue! I will pass this on to my mechanic.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On ‎11‎/‎23‎/‎2009 at 5:52 PM, famouslee99gt said:

I pulled the sensor on the passenger side and cleaned it up, came out ok, and wasn't all that dirty. It had 3 shims on it, in which i left all 3 on, but cleaned them all up. Before I even left the driveway, abs kicked in again. I pulled the fuse until I can get it to the dealer because I have had many close calls and it's getting annoying. Last night when I came home from work, just perfect, no issues....Today, I drove 1 mile over to my grandparents and it did it about 2 or 3 times that I had to slow down to stop.

 

Posted

My 2004 GMC Sierra SLT 4x4 had the ABS issue stated in other post on this subject where the abs motor started kicking in (when slowing down and hitting the 10 mph to stopping) shortly after I had abs light coming on randomly.  First thing done was followed the code reading and changed the driver side sensor wire and that didn't solve the problem. Second step was checked for bad wheel bearings, all bearings seemed in good condition. Third move was run computer code 0269 to think all wheel sensors needed cleaning and the surrounding areas. So I got online and ordered another front wheel sensor so mechanic could changed front passenger side in the process of cleaning the hub (and he did find a Knick in the sensor wire that could have been a problem). First one I bought at Oreilly's for $60 versus the one I bought online at AM-Autoparts.com for $15. He cleaned each wheel hub sensor and reluctor rings and this solved my problem. Hope my post helps someone who encounters this issue.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 11/23/2009 at 5:52 PM, famouslee99gt said:

I pulled the sensor on the passenger side and cleaned it up, came out ok, and wasn't all that dirty. It had 3 shims on it, in which i left all 3 on, but cleaned them all up. Before I even left the driveway, abs kicked in again. I pulled the fuse until I can get it to the dealer because I have had many close calls and it's getting annoying. Last night when I came home from work, just perfect, no issues....Today, I drove 1 mile over to my grandparents and it did it about 2 or 3 times that I had to slow down to stop.

by pulling the fuse,  it did not solve the issue?

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I'm going crazy over this same issue and after reading every single comment I can't seem to find a resolution. I have an 01 Silverado 1500 4x4 and about a month ago I changed the fuel pump.(lifted the bed instead of dropping the tank) well after putting it all back together I started getting the ABS activating at low speeds. Thought my rear caliper was seizing up like I've had my others do so I replaced the caliper. Continued to activate the ABS. I had 2 mechanics tell me it was the ABS module so i replaced it along with the ABS pump. Still having issues. Both of my front sensors have been replaced and the system has been flushed and bled. However I have not had it bled through one of the scan tools that does it for you. So my question is could there still be air in the lines causing it, or could it be still a bad sensor or hub/bearing assembling? My ABS and Brake light sporadically come on and have for about 2 years but with no problems to my braking. I just need a solution because its getting costly and time consuming playing trial and error. Also, my DRL and brake lights have starting flashing periodically since i changed my fuel pump to making me believe a ground is loose somewhere but I don't know where.

Posted

Those mechanics should have watched the wheel speed sensors on a scan tool to see what each is reporting. The rear of that truck doesn't have ABS sensor so it would only be the front.

 

Just about everytime I've seen this happen it's from one wheel dropping down to 0mph before the other one has. The other wheel will still show 5mph while the other drops to 0mph and trips the ABS.


Replacing just the sensor only fixes a sensor problem but if the problem is with the metal tone ring in the wheel bearing itself, you must replace the bearing to fix the problem.

Posted

How would I find out if its the hub? Or can I test the sensors some how? I have had the codes ran and it says both the front sensors are missing and my brake switch is bad. So I'm at a loss!

Posted

How would I find out if its the hub? Or can I test the sensors some how? I have had the codes ran and it says both the front sensors are missing and my brake switch is bad. So I'm at a loss!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,503 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If there are updates/fixes you want, you could pay to have the updates applied by the dealer.
    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...