Jump to content

Abs Kicks In When Almost At Complete Stop

famouslee99gt
 Share

Recommended Posts

frugalsob Enthusiast

frugalsob

Posted
Posted

I just got done fixing this last night. Did everything just as the TSB stated. It seems to work like a charm now...

 

Thanks for the help! This thread saved me some cash! Gotta like that!

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

09Jimmy
09Jimmy

Swhitney is right. The problem is called "unintended low speed ABS activation". There was a recall for trucks in the "rust belt". Undo the torx screw that holds the ABS "reader" to the hub and pull it

MikeNH
MikeNH

"Driving" it on the lift can make it act up but honestly the scan tool won't pick up the sensor being corroded- if there were a fault/code stored the ABS light would light up. This is just one of thos

Metro12 Enthusiast

Metro12

Posted
Posted (edited)
I hate to bring up an old thread but this may be the answer to my problem. When applying the brake a a low speed and hitting a bump the abs would kick on and it was like I lost brakes completely. Did it once or twice last fall but then did it in the a few days after christmas when out plowing and ended up rear ended a car. Plow prevented any damage to my rig but messed up her bumper and now my insurance just went up abit :thumbs:

Anyway now that the weather is getting better I definatly would like to get this fixed. What exactly to I have to sand/clean up? I keep hearing about a possible recall for this but can't find any good info. Truck is a 2000 3/4 ton Silverado and I'm in Vermont so I'd assume that would be in the "salt area" that I heard mentioned

 

I don't think your issue is the vehicle speed sensor. If it only does it when you hit bumps when slowing down, the system is doing what it is supposed to. ABS senses when a wheel is moving at a different speed while braking. If your hitting a bump while braking, one tire is likely getting some lift off the road, and therefore changes speed, activating the ABS. A faulty VSS will activate consistently, not just on bumps.

 

And thanks for bring up an old post. I find it refreshing to see people searching before posting the same topics over, and over. It helps for others to see whats already been posted about the topic you have a question on.

Edited by Metro12
  • 3 weeks later...
sgrah230 Enthusiast

sgrah230

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if there is a TSB for the NNBS. My '07 has started to do the whole abs at low speeds, but it is still under warranty.

 

My concern is that if it does not do it for the dealer, they may not want to fix it under the warranty.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you.

Ghostsniper Enthusiast

Ghostsniper

Posted
Posted (edited)

Im not sure if anyone else posted this but, if you need your truck the next day and you dont have time to fix this issue, you can pull out the brake fuse inside the dash on the truck. This will stop the ABS from kicking in but will disable the cruise control. You will get the ABS light on the dash until you reinstall the fuse. (no this will not keep your tail lights from turning on, i currently am running my truck without the fuse in right now, you will still want to make sure everything works before you drive around in high traffic areas though to make sure you pulled the right fuse)

Edited by Ghostsniper
  • 4 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

after 4 yrs of living with this issue, i finally diagnosed it, i had to replace 1 front sensor and clean a rear sensor

 

 

 

I'm glad you solved it but this is an extremely common issue on the 800-series trucks and SUVs- did you just deal with it or were repair shops not able to solve the issue?

grumpy0282 Enthusiast

grumpy0282

Posted
Posted

 

 

I'm glad you solved it but this is an extremely common issue on the 800-series trucks and SUVs- did you just deal with it or were repair shops not able to solve the issue?

well im kinda cheap lol so i really didnt want to pay 80-100 for a scan. i got new tires put on last year and the shop scanned it for for free for me but imo did not know what he was doing, instead of scanning it while driving it he put it on a hoist and ran it in drive, im no expert but how do you diagnose an abs issue if all 4 tires are spinning at different speeds ? anyway finally after watching a few youtube vids and reading things online (the tsb) i checked it out myself and fixed it myself. im also pissed at myself, a couple years ago i replaced a hub and i thought about keeping the old abs sensor and i didnt,, im a putz for not keeping it

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

"Driving" it on the lift can make it act up but honestly the scan tool won't pick up the sensor being corroded- if there were a fault/code stored the ABS light would light up. This is just one of those things you see on the trucks that see snow/salt and being in Toronto, you certainly do.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Ryan19450 New Member

Ryan19450

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking for any advice. My '03 Envoy brakes pump when I slow to around 5mph. I changed the driver hub assembly and no luck. Do I need to do the passenger side too? The ABS light isn't on. Or is this an electric brake controller issue? Thank you!

Edited by Ryan19450
MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

By pump do you mean ABS activities? If so it is likely a bad speed sensor/hub.

  • 2 years later...
dcavman New Member

dcavman

Posted
Posted

im having the same issue found a recall on it but GM said my vin is not covered gotta love that customer service as they continually refereed me to a dealership

  • 2 weeks later...
Gossman New Member

Gossman

Posted
Posted

2001 Yukon 4WD rear limited slip axle . Having the same issue you boys did . Under light braking condition at low speeds feels like the ABS kicks in and can feel it pulsate in the steering wheel and on the brake pedal . No C.E.L no ABS light . I've removed and cleaned all 4 calipers and retracted the pistons with a large C clamp , blew out all brake dust , bled all 4 calipers starting with the R/R and working back towards the master cylinder . Non of that fixed the problem so I'm gonna try to remove both front ABS sensors , clean the bores , lube the o/rings and reinstall and see if that will fix it . You would think if there was an excessive air gap due to corrosion or whatever that it would trigger an ABS code ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...