Jump to content

Help, I Need Help

matt76

By matt76
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
Posted

i just finished putting in a new crate motor in my 98 gmc k1500 5.7. went to start it for the first time and she ran great for about ten minutes then shut off. then i discovered the neg. terminal on the battery had gotten soo hot it melted out of the battery. i checked all my wires and everything looked good, so i moved the wire to the top terminals and tried it again. this time the starter started smoking and was too hot to even touch.

what in the world is happening. when she was running, the only code i got was p1345 ckp and cmp. but now i can't start her at all, she just clicks.

i don't mind getting another battery and starter, but what happened so i don't do it again?

any ideas would be very helpful, its starting to get cold and i need her to move.

thanks

matt

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Any melting of battery cables is the result of excess current flow. One way that can happen is if the positive was resting on a header or exhaust manifold -- it'll run great until the manifold gets hot, then when the jacket melts, every amp your battery is capable of storing will be sent through the positive terminal to your manifold ... usually accompanied by a small fire.

 

But it sounds like what happened here was an internal short of the armature inside your starter motor. My guess is replace the starter, double check your cable routing - keep AWAY from exhaust manifold - & you should be set.

 

 

Now that I think about it -- you said the neg melted ..... you didn't hook the cables up backwards, did you? Sorry ... have to ask ....

Nytemare Senior Enthusiast

Nytemare

Posted
Posted

+1

also, your starter Bendix may not have disengaged turning your starter into a generator. That would put a crap load of back current into the battery...unregulated.

 

Your battery is also probably toast too now.

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i swear ive checked. i have made many stupid mistakes that i'm not afraid to admit. but i'm sure there wired correctly.

im guessing the bat is toast too. unfortunatly its a really expensive optimum.

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i double checked everything. i went out and got a brand new starter and a brand new battery. i will again make sure everything is buttoned up and correct. and we'll try it again.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Be sure to post back & let us know how you make out.

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

replaced the starter, replaced the battery. all the wires are correct as far as im aware. went to start and all i get is a click. went under the truck and had a helper turn the key. click, one single click, coming from the brand new starter, really the click is coming from the solenoid. no cranking.

back to reading the book for more checks.

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i did not replace the wires. and i'm not getting any voltage to the purple wire on the starter. could this be why?

minibike132 Senior Enthusiast

minibike132

Posted
Posted
i did not replace the wires. and i'm not getting any voltage to the purple wire on the starter. could this be why?

 

 

Not getting voltage to the purple wire with the ignition in crank?

matt76 Enthusiast

matt76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

only a click, no cranking, no volt reading to the purple wire

 

 

i did not replace the wires. and i'm not getting any voltage to the purple wire on the starter. could this be why?

 

 

Not getting voltage to the purple wire with the ignition in crank?

 

minibike132 Senior Enthusiast

minibike132

Posted
Posted
only a click, no cranking, no volt reading to the purple wire

 

 

i did not replace the wires. and i'm not getting any voltage to the purple wire on the starter. could this be why?

 

 

Not getting voltage to the purple wire with the ignition in crank?

 

 

 

I understand there is no cranking, what I am asking is there any voltage to the purple wire with the key in the crank position?

 

If there is no voltage to the purple wire with the key in the crank position you should not be getting a click at the starter.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      GM discontinuing interior parts on a 5YO vehicle??

      By Atlas · Posted

      If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • mrbflat
      Clunk when coming to a stop... driveshaft/slip yoke? Mechanic couldn't recreate it

      By mrbflat · Posted

      I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Pryme
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Pryme · Posted

      Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...