Jump to content

No Power Under 2500 Pms


Dank Xploidz

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ever since I have had my truck is is very weak on the lower rpms. It sounds like its bogging out but it doesn't want to cut off, just struggles to go, when I accelerate. When I accelerate it struggles but when it hits 2500 rpms it seems to go fine. It struggles to go up bridges and to pass people. I have changed a lot of things in the truck that could be the problem. I'll list them. Please help! Thanks.

 

I've changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor, O2 sensor, and sea foamed it. even tried to find vaccum leaks. It will crank up and idle fine, drives amazing other than that problem. Please help me

Posted

Welcome to the site. What gears do you have in your truck? You can find out in the glove box by looking at the RPO codes. GU6 = 3.42, GT4 = 3.73, GT5 = 4.10. A custom tune or a handheld tuner will help your flat spot alot.

 

Check out Diablo, Superchips, Blackbearperformance, and GoWheately for more information.

Posted

This truck has TBI right?

 

I think you may have an injector problem. Pop the air cleaner off and have a look at the spray pattern of the injectors...bring up the idle very slowly, and make sure its a nice fan pattern, not dribbling, or spraying off to the side or anything.

Posted

oops, didn't realize it was a '95. You'd need some kind of chip in that case. I know Jet chips work really nice.

 

What about clogged cats? That will cause a power loss :lol:

Posted

Also make sure that someone didn't install an aftermarket TBI spacer -- they absolutely kill low-end power on these.

Posted

Do they come with stock spacers? Mine has a spacer, but without it the air intake wont go back on. I dont have a cat, my o2 senor was before it so it doesn't affect the power.

Posted

yeah...TB spacers are a good thing on a TBI vehicle and a carbureted vehicle...actually the only engines they do work on.

 

Anything that the TB only draws in air is where they don't work and kill low end. So 1999 and up for our trucks.

 

 

I would say check your timing.

10* BTDC at 2000 rpm is the right setting. Someone could have tried to advance it some more and screwed it up.

Do you have a timing light?

Posted

No no....a timing light is a tool....

Bring it to a shop and get the timing checked. Or if you have a buddy that knows what they're doing, have him check it. It takes about 5 min

Posted

Low Power.

Especially if its too far advanced, it would have low power under 3000rpm.

You "may" also have rough idle if its way out.

 

you could also have pinging in the higher rpm range.

Posted
Thanks, do you know if advance auto parts can check your timing?

No Idea...if they have a shop they should be able too...but I'm Canadian...we don't have Advance Auto Parts here...or if we do...not where I'm from.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...