.thumb.JPG.96e5ac8c60641f8011665a2c92c083f2.JPG)
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Forum Statistics
250.4k
Total Topics2.7m
Total Posts -
Member Statistics
342,779
Total Members8,960
Most Online
-
Who's Online 10 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,950 Guests (See full list)
-
Latest Articles
-
Posts
-
.thumb.JPG.2c573de60d3a3a4407c7d92298db46dd.JPG)
By Grumpy Bear · Posted
Gasgacinch, James Gaskets. Good stuff. High tac to help hold the gasket in place while assembling parts. Fills minor surface imperfections. Slightly elastic. Gasoline / coolant / oil proof. Very handy stuff. Nothing like RTV. -
By richard wysong · Posted
Correct. Read the directions on any chemical sealer you use, lots of RTV says to let it skin over BEFORE assembly. The more humid it is the faster it cures, I think the RIGHT STUFF can be assembled wet -
I appreciate your response as well as everyone elses. It's all stuff/info/opinions to consider. It's why I asked. The spacers are .375, the reach of the extendend lugs is only .33". Even if they were to bottom out with just the wheels, they're not going to bottom with the gen 2 BORA spacers. Spacer size wasn't a guess for me either. As I posted, the one front wheel I tested, spun freely with a less than 1/4" worth of washers. I went with the BORA .375" and ET lugs because I thought it was more important to have hubcentric spacers. Based on my research, that started at .375 for any vendors I found. Time will tell. I really want put the backs on, but it's also really hot outside. Air conditioning is a wonderful thing. -
-
I've never done an intake gasket before. Of course, advice on how to best clean and prep is ALL OVER the place. Scotch Brite. No Scotch Brite. Roloc wheel, NO, not that, plastic scraper only and solvents, NO, use a razor blade and solvents, acetone, NO, use brake cleaner, NO not brake cleaner, use ___ . I tried a more gentle method last night with a razor blade - actually, with a new exacto blade because it's wider than a razor blade and just as sharp. And using plastic (blue) scotch-brite (basically a kitchen sponge with a non-scratch scrubber on the back) and some brake cleaner. Sadly, there is some pitting/corrosion on the intake where it mates with the rear coolant ports which aren't used. They're blocked off there so coolant pools and corrosives crystallize there and cling to the intake material. I think a new gasket will seal. The Edelbrock install guide says use Gaskachinch (which I interpret as a product like Permatex High Tack dressing/sealer) to hold the gasket in place and encourage good sealing. SO I think I'll do that. Any other tips/tricks? I'll suck out the valley and ports real good and add some more protective layering while cleaning to catch debris. This is definitely a backyard job, good enough. I don't have enough interest or zeal to go have stuff hot-dipped, machined, etc. It was sealed before, so it should seal again. Right?!
-
-
GM-Trucks.com Clubs
-
Black Truck Club
Open Club · 612 members
-
White Truck Club
Open Club · 380 members
-
Canadian Owners Club
Open Club · 282 members
-
Red Truck Club
Open Club · 156 members
-
diesel 3.0
Open Club · 279 members
-
Texas Owner's Group
Open Club · 371 members
-
NorthSky Blue Club
Open Club · 118 members
-
Midwest Owner's Group
Open Club · 212 members
-
2015 Custom Sport Club
Open Club · 5 members
-
GM Snow Plowing Club HD
Closed Club · 14 members
-
-
Popular Contributors
-
1
-
2
-
3
-
4
-
5
-
-
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.