Jump to content

Blown Engine, Losing Faith In Gm, Money Pit


Recommended Posts

Posted

Lets Just say I took the plunge as a die hard dodge Fan, to buy a supposivly reliable Duramax.

I found a 2005 Duramax Crew cab LLY for 26,000$ Cnd with 144,000kms.

The truck has everything I would ever put into a truck, and looked great inside and out

 

First I got two local dealerships to do a used vehichle inspection and everything passed except some front end components being out of spec. (Still rode solid and wasnt all over the road)

Thee people commented that they knew the previous owner and had nothing but good things to say about how the guy took care of the truck. (Put my mind at ease)

 

So I buy the truck four months ago (Warrenty expired in nov 2009) and drive it once a week, average of accumulating 20,000 kms a year. First it was an injector #2. Replaced that and all other were within spec. Then the famous transfer case pump rub appeared (ok, at this point not mad, I guess its a common problem)

 

See my link to the thread with other pump rub issues.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...48648&st=45

So I got that fixed and the whole front end re-done (Hoping this is it for the next ten years the way I drive it lol)

 

500 kms later the engines running rough again, pressure in the crank (alot) and smoking very bad blue. Take it to my mechanic and he says I ahve a dead hole, most likely a hole in my piston. Now the pyro for the EGTs was in the wrong place so it was reading lower than it should have. they say The guy drove the snot out of this truck so the other 7 pistons are probably waiting to fail as well. There is a PPE hot +2 programmer isntalled but the guy said he never had it pas level 2, weather thats true or false ill never know.

 

Long story short, the mechanic says It would be cheaper to install a crate motor than pull it and tear down to find more problems inside. The cost to me for a rebuilt crate motor is 12,000$ installed, and a used wrecker motor with 70,000kms for 9800$ installed, but the new one comes with a 3 year warrenty.

 

So 2000kms after I buy this dreaded thing, it jsut keeps snow baling and becoming a money pit. Could of bought brand new for the money I have into this thing. The dealership offers me 7000$ for a trade on a new one (slap in the face to lose 23,000$ on a dead truck)

 

This keepps bring me back to whats next? the turbo? the injectors? the differentials? Everythings new o the truck and the allison is rebuilt with a suncoast stage 3, whats the chances this piles up next?

 

Now with the chip installed and over warrenty, Im told theres no way GM will even look at footing any part of the bill. any reminence of a chip voids all aspects of warrenty, especially since its over time frame. I have looked and looked for blown duramaxs on the net and its slim to find, especially with less than 200,000kms.

 

Im so far into this truck I dont know what to do.

Fix it new, and hope for the best...again? or burn the sucker.

looking back since bought new on the service records, there has been no major engine or powertrain work done on this truck.

 

Thoughts and feedback is appreciated,

- Landon

 

Im not bashing GM but for taking a leap to switch over, Its hard to keep faith in this company.

Posted

From everything I have seen (my dad has a 2005) and read. That engine is great and reliable. I have not heard of issues like this, UNLESS you have already answered you question...The guy drove the snot out of it. He never had it past level 2...I have my doubts.

 

My guess is, that this boils down to a previous owner issue more than a GM issue.

 

Sorry about your luck man!

Posted

Yea I think thats my conclusion.

But the guy who installed the pyro for the EGTs had it in the wrong spot.

 

So even on level 2 pulling a trailer (which it says its safe to do so) the gauge could of been reading 1000-1100, but in reality been 1300+. so the previous owner could of been destroying the motor and not even known. Tough to pin the blame down

 

Also my step dad had a 05 duramax from new and it ran 200,000+ no problems with an Edge chip in it.

Its not so much GMs fault just the costs that keep coming from this truck is outragous.

Posted

its the previous owner...the duramax is almost flawless minus the injector issue which should be under warranty still...when i got my truck i found out after buying it that the previous owner fryed all 4 brake and rotors from driving like a FIB, dodges are pieces of junk...i have all 3 brands in my family and by far the dodge is the worst, i think the damn thing sucks gas when the motors off...if there was no gm i'd ride a horse plain and simple screw the other brands

Posted

haha yea the cummins is bulletproof IMO, but everything else is junk.

Its a duramax LLY so it shouldnt have the injector problems, I think that was the Lb7 with the extended warranty and problems.

Thanks for the replies

Posted

If the previous owner rebuilt/beefed up the Allison tranny with the Suncoast stage 3 kit that is because he wasn't babying the old girl... I think he ran her hard.

Posted
If the previous owner rebuilt/beefed up the Allison tranny with the Suncoast stage 3 kit that is because he wasn't babying the old girl... I think he ran her hard.

 

I must have missed it, where'd the OP say that?

 

DEWFPO

Posted

My thoughts are following the rest. With the Suncoast and messed up placement of the pryo, a guy who is only saying that he tuned his chip to level 2 is full of ****, my guess is it rarely ever hit level 2, and a huge question that would of flaired up to me is why is my front end all worn to hell if he wasn't playn.

Posted
2/3rds of the 1st post...

 

Thanks, found it after rereading it again.

 

DEWFPO

Posted

yeah know if you have the old 6.5 detroit terd, the thing would have been dead soon as you turned the radio on...just replace whats broke, and carry on...we all have had repair bills and the majority is that the old owner drove it like it was stolen

Posted

I would go with the crate motor from gm with the new warranty, take the tune out of the truck prior to repair so that the new engine gets the tune in the future after the warranty is gone.

 

While the engine is out check the tranny, the difs, change the fluids, drop the tranny pan, new tranny pan filter and fluid with careful inspection.

 

It will be costly, but not as much as 23,000 dollars. And if nothing is found wrong, then you can probably have a solid truck for the rest of its service life for you.

 

Get all the various fluids changed out for new, as well, therefore you can start out with a new platform with a known history baseline that would not be altered by old fluids.

 

I hope all works out for ya.

 

This will still be cheaper than a new truck, with most of the benefits of new truck when you compare the mechanicals.

Posted

Damn Landon... that sucks. Not a good jump into the GM pool for you.

 

I'm with the others... I believe the previous owner is the culprit here much more than GM. Buying a used truck is kind of like getting a new girlfriend, you never know how hard they have been ridden before you met up and some of them clean up pretty well...

 

Good luck with it.

Posted

This is why I don't have a diesel;

 

- Cannot justify the added expense on a new one.

- Cannot trust that the last guy didn't run a programmer on level 5 & then unload it right before it failed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...