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Pitman Arm...help!

Pope&Youngseeker

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The John Enthusiast

The John

Posted
Posted

Last time I tried doing one was on my S10 and it was such a PITA I had it towed. The big nut holding it on wouldn't break loose - the breaker bar bent and the impact wrench wouldn't even work.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

You need a big impact wrench for that nut and a 175 psi source of compressed air. This job may be best left to a shop equipped with proper tools. It's not that big a deal with the right tools, but I believe the truck needs to be realigned afterwards (Pitman arm replacement will affect the toe in setting primarily).

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

Yes these can be quite the problem to get off.......

 

You will need a gooooood AIR COMPRESSOR and a high torque 1/2 or 3/4 drive impact. Or redneck it.......... Use largest ratchet possible. A fix it to the the nut on the pitman arm. Use a long cheater bar on the wrench as you will need enough length to find something to bind up the ratchet with.

 

Hold the wrench, socket, and cheater bar up on the nut on the pitman arm. Take care not to in-trap yourself in the belt system. Use a foot, hand, or spare 2x4 to complete this task. Have good friend to crank the truck.... Turn the wheel against the threads on the nut. And you have just used torque multiplication (equivalent to the gear reduction in the gear box). The nut will spin freely now.

 

After removing nut with either method. You will be needing a pitman arm puller. Again impact is a good thing to have hear... Or you will be breathing heavy before you free the pitman arm from the shaft.

 

Clean good the shaft from where you have removed the pitman arm. At this point use Anti-Seize to coat the taper and the treads of the shaft.

 

Also, the cheater bar comes in handy while putting the nut on to torque specs as will a impact.

 

Now you know my cheat for removing somethings....

 

Same idea will remove the stubborn harmonic balancer bolts also. Only remove the coil wire and or ignition relay so as it does not start up (the idea here is just to bump the starter thou)..... Works 95 percent of the time when you do not have a compressor and impact handy...... I.E. so you can replace that blasted crank shaft sensor that the limb in the road broke into pieces when you ran it over... (on the side of the road I might add on vacation.....)

 

Jbo

Ape0r Enthusiast

Ape0r

Posted
Posted
Yes these can be quite the problem to get off.......

 

You will need a gooooood AIR COMPRESSOR and a high torque 1/2 or 3/4 drive impact. Or redneck it.......... Use largest ratchet possible. A fix it to the the nut on the pitman arm. Use a long cheater bar on the wrench as you will need enough length to find something to bind up the ratchet with.

 

Hold the wrench, socket, and cheater bar up on the nut on the pitman arm. Take care not to in-trap yourself in the belt system. Use a foot, hand, or spare 2x4 to complete this task. Have good friend to crank the truck.... Turn the wheel against the threads on the nut. And you have just used torque multiplication (equivalent to the gear reduction in the gear box). The nut will spin freely now.

 

After removing nut with either method. You will be needing a pitman arm puller. Again impact is a good thing to have hear... Or you will be breathing heavy before you free the pitman arm from the shaft.

 

Clean good the shaft from where you have removed the pitman arm. At this point use Anti-Seize to coat the taper and the treads of the shaft.

 

Also, the cheater bar comes in handy while putting the nut on to torque specs as will a impact.

 

Now you know my cheat for removing somethings....

 

Same idea will remove the stubborn harmonic balancer bolts also. Only remove the coil wire and or ignition relay so as it does not start up (the idea here is just to bump the starter thou)..... Works 95 percent of the time when you do not have a compressor and impact handy...... I.E. so you can replace that blasted crank shaft sensor that the limb in the road broke into pieces when you ran it over... (on the side of the road I might add on vacation.....)

 

Jbo

 

What he said. Don't buy a cheap puller. I broke TWO of the $15 pullers from Autozone when I tried to replace the gearbox on my truck late last year. My truck is an '04 and spent the first six years of its life in.. ding ding ding.. Virginia!

 

Had to replace the box again last week because the first one failed. I blew $80 on a Snap-On CJ119-B pitman arm puller off of E-bay. My pitman arm came right off the second time (mainly because the grease monkey at the stealer didn't bother to tighten down that nut), but you need a puller that won't break.

 

Didn't have any trouble with the nut either time. I have a DeWalt DW293 electric impact wrench.. develops 345 ft lb, knocked that ****er right off last year. Came off EASY as pie with a ratchet this time. Damn lazy mechanic.

 

 

 

In other words, have the damn tire shop put it on. You're going to need a torch to get it off. And a bigass impact wrench.

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

Yes the liquid wrench usually always wins the war.....

 

Yea splurge on a high dollar puller.... OTC, SNAP ON, KD, MAC............. It sucks when it bust and your torque wrench (uh yes this is that impact you was thinking about) is set on 5 and its thumping 1100+ ft lbs..... I never can remember to cut the air pressure down to 90psi...... they sing much better when it is 200psi... :thumbs:

 

Jbo

Pope&Youngseeker Enthusiast

Pope&Youngseeker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well really do appreciate the replys fellas. Plan on tackling this thing in a few days and will let you know how it goes. Hopefully it wont take to much blood, sweat and lots of bad words.

 

 

Thanks

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Recommend you rent a puller from Auto Zone for free with a refundable deposit. If you break theirs, they will not charge you for it because these tools are supposed to be "tough" and they have a lifetime guarantee (I think - better double check with them though). Hopefully the nut will not be too tight. Use a lot of penetrant oil such as WD 40 on it before you attempt removing it.

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