Jump to content

Spider Web Scratches.


Recommended Posts

Posted

zaino is about the only thing that will effectively get rid of them and keep them from coming back..

 

but in the future  use 100% cotton from fieldcrest to prevent them.

Posted

You may want to try "Liquid Ebony".  It is marketed as a machine applied swirl remover.  It works great!!  I have used it for years to detail dark colored cars.  It can be found at most automotive paint supply stores.  It sells for about $15-$20 for a large (30-40 oz) bottle.

 

BTW, it works well on most minor scratches.

  • 5 months later...
Posted
if they are deep 3m is great but you need a buffer.  If they are light the zaino Z2or Z5 (clearcoat stuff) will remove them well
  • 6 months later...
Posted

:cheers:

yep... Liquid Ebony is what you want to use.

 

I have used it over 20 yrs and it is the detailers choice for black paint.

but after you are done with the LE, use Zaino products for the shine of your life and very easy to apply.... on your truck, fig about 2 full days... but it will be worth every minute when you are done.

Posted

You will always have light scratches or swirls with a black or dark color car or truck, to get rid of these light scratches use a product like 3M Scratch and Swirl Remover, if you want to cover or hide the light scratches use Zaino Z-5, it works great on dark colors and covers light scratches very well if the are not too deep

Posted

Its also very important not to wash the car and wax it using a circular motion (no wax on, wax off crap). Always wash it and apply wax in the direction the air travels, so front to back. I wash one side at a time, starting at the front and walking all the way to the back in one straight motion.

Posted

A buddy at work was just asking me the other day how to remove a pretty deep scratch and spider webs on a black Grand Am (wife's car) to get it looking good to sell it. I gave him the website for Zaino and he checked it out. Couldn't find what he wanted on the site so he called, this was on a Sunday, mind you. He was going to leave a message when, much to his surprise, someone answered the phone. It was one of the owners. He recommended to my buddy to use the 3M swirl and scratch remover to get the finish where he wanted it before he put the Zaino product on the car. :cheers:

 

Hope this helps! :lol:

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Maguiars Scratch X works pretty good on my Tahoe.

 

Use non-lint towels when taking wax off. Be sure when you wash them (towels) that you do not use any additive to your wash. The "fabric softner" when used in the dryer, or washer type, leaves a film on the towels and will cause scraches when using them on your clear coat.

 

cheers

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...