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My Fix On My Silverado Electrical Problem

BloodRedSilverado
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zcs626 Enthusiast

zcs626

Posted
Posted

buddy of mine had a similar issue and he took the ground cable off the frame, grinding the shit out of the frame to make a clean connection and hooked it back up. never had a problem since.

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BloodRedSilverado
BloodRedSilverado

I'm unsure what kind of pics everybody wants to see. Basicly I took two 4 gauge cables and ran them seperate (one to the frame and the other to the alt) from the battery. Very simple. Only difference

Fozzy
Fozzy

Anyone know if this will fix the radio / instrument light dimming /"Engine Hot AC turned off" / "Check Air Bags"/ "Check Left Rear Tire" crazyness?

cbranz43
cbranz43

I have read and read about this. I have a 2007 4.3 V6 new body style silverado. It does what I call 'glitching'. The lights for airbag, check engine, tire pressure, etc will flash on and off. The gaug

BloodRedSilverado Enthusiast

BloodRedSilverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm unsure what kind of pics everybody wants to see. Basicly I took two 4 gauge cables and ran them seperate (one to the frame and the other to the alt) from the battery. Very simple. Only difference is I used 4 gauge cable on the frame cable and I know my connections are bulletproof considering I installed them.. I took some pics but the cable itself is wireloomed to look more OEM. The actual cable is the same size as the wireloom itself.I couldn't get a precise pic of the framerail connection(too dark), but its pretty straightforward. This fix is actually easy with just having the right cable/connections and a little time. In my opinion it was worth every second without having to doubt whether I will encounter the same problems I have been for the past year. However it's a shame I couldn't get GM to fix this under the 3 year warranty.... :)

 

TruckWiring003.jpg

 

TruckWiring002.jpg

 

TruckWiring005.jpg

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BloodRedSilverado Enthusiast

BloodRedSilverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
at least you loomed it. thank god. nice job

 

most of the older trucks arent. Really didn't matter to me, but since the oem cable came loomed, I figured I'd keep it that way on my new cable

Edited by BloodRedSilverado
tmoney82 Enthusiast

tmoney82

Posted
Posted

Was this wire from a amp kit or is it a battery cable kit wire? Is there any different between the two as if in example, will the amp kit wire handles less current draw than a normal battery cable wire?

tmoney82 Enthusiast

tmoney82

Posted
Posted
Was this wire from a amp kit or is it a battery cable kit wire? Is there any different between the two as if in example, will the amp kit wire handles less current draw than a normal battery cable wire?

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BloodRedSilverado Enthusiast

BloodRedSilverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Was this wire from a amp kit or is it a battery cable kit wire? Is there any different between the two as if in example, will the amp kit wire handles less current draw than a normal battery cable wire?

Bump

 

 

Either will work as long as it is rated to handle the load you expect to use it for. I believe on amp wire it actually states to be battery cable. I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 4 gauge on your battery cable though.

tmoney82 Enthusiast

tmoney82

Posted
Posted
Was this wire from a amp kit or is it a battery cable kit wire? Is there any different between the two as if in example, will the amp kit wire handles less current draw than a normal battery cable wire?

Bump

 

 

Either will work as long as it is rated to handle the load you expect to use it for. I believe on amp wire it actually states to be battery cable. I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 4 gauge on your battery cable though.

 

Thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
spankrz Enthusiast

spankrz

Posted
Posted

glad to hear if you got it, my 07 dims the lights and whatnot often, and i know that it should not do that with a 165a alternator.... i might do this one rainy day.

 

i can get some 4 guage welding ground cable cheap from work, too:) i love working at a hardware store

  • 10 months later...
deepstuff Enthusiast

deepstuff

Posted
Posted

Update: Almost a month and still no issues. I think I can actually say I finally fixed the problem.

 

 

Is your fix still working? It all just started on my 2007.

First I had it momentarily shut down and cycle all the gauges and door locks and shut of headlights at highway speed. It came back on its own.

Now having trouble starting. Leave it for a while or turn key second or tenth time and it fires right up.

 

I've changed the battery, and it was good for a few days now I have the starting issue again. I've checked the wires and they seem fine? Mega fuse is good, ground to block is good, Connections to mega fuse and fuse box is good. ????

Fozzy Enthusiast

Fozzy

Posted
Posted

Anyone know if this will fix the radio / instrument light dimming /"Engine Hot AC turned off" / "Check Air Bags"/ "Check Left Rear Tire" crazyness?

  • Like 1
VT_Z71 Enthusiast

VT_Z71

Posted
Posted

I've been dealing with similar electrical issues with my '07 lately. 3 trips to the dealer later and I think we've finally figured it out. What I thought was an issue with the crimped negative cable connection at the battery was actually a 'strained / stretched positive cable'. Dealer 're-routed' my positive cable and 3 days later, so far so good. Hope thats the end of it.

deepstuff Enthusiast

deepstuff

Posted
Posted

I've been dealing with similar electrical issues with my '07 lately. 3 trips to the dealer later and I think we've finally figured it out. What I thought was an issue with the crimped negative cable connection at the battery was actually a 'strained / stretched positive cable'. Dealer 're-routed' my positive cable and 3 days later, so far so good. Hope thats the end of it.

 

 

Not to burst your bubble and I hope you're problem is fixed... Don't go to far in the woods without a budding in a Dodge. From experience 3-days in not long enough to tell - just enough to make it really fustratingnext time it happens.

 

Anyway, went out this morning and the horn beeped twice when I unlocked the doors with the key fob. I then purposly just turned my key to the "on" position not to start. To my surprise the radio clock was already reset t0 12:00. I then turned on the head lights and heated seats and checked for voltage drop accross my cables with the engine still not running but key on. From positive battery to other side of mega fuse zero voltage drop. From negative battery to block and from neg battery to Alternator casing 0.4volts.

 

With truck running the .04 volts went to .08volts. It was dark so I couldn't get right on the block end of the cable but was making good connection with the block and Alt casing. I never tried from Positive battery to frame or body but will the next time.

 

I'll be checking my grounds next including one under drivers door. MAybe even change the ground cables. Its fustrating when I can't trust my truck.

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