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Question's On Mounting Amp To Back Wall?

PFF09Sierra

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PFF09Sierra Enthusiast

PFF09Sierra

Posted
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About to go buy the materials to try and mount my amp behind my seats. I was wondering what everyone was using as far as types and sizes of wood to mount the amp to. Also, from what ive read there are "bump outs" on the back wall you can mount the wood to without screwing through the cab? What size/type screws would be best for the job. Ive also read about people using liquid nails or some type of adhesive.

 

Thanks for the help!

SparkySparks Enthusiast

SparkySparks

Posted
Posted

That's a good question and one I've been wondering about also, going to be watching this thread and hope some people chime in with an answer.

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

Posted
Posted

Read through this thread...The OP says what he used and how he mounted it on the 2nd page of the thread.

PFF09Sierra Enthusiast

PFF09Sierra

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Read through this thread...The OP says what he used and how he mounted it on the 2nd page of the thread.

 

I'm familiar with this was one, it was one of the only threads I have seen as far as specifics go for materials. I was just wondering if anyone had tried or used anything else and how it worked? Thanks for the help though!!

SparkySparks Enthusiast

SparkySparks

Posted
Posted

I was thinking of maybe using JB Weld or some sort of epoxy to secure nuts to the rear wall and then bolting the board to the nuts, I'm not sure how well it will hold.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted
I was thinking of maybe using JB Weld or some sort of epoxy to secure nuts to the rear wall and then bolting the board to the nuts, I'm not sure how well it will hold.

 

For amps that will work fine, use flange nuts with the flange on the body metal and put jb weld on the base and once that sets up put jb weld around the the top of the flange itself. Of course you will either have to cut the bolts to length or use washers for perfect fit and make sure to use threadlocker.

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
Posted

I just finished my install and basically followed Skank's recommendations in the other thread. He was a big help. I used 3/8" plywood for the board and 5/8" self-tapping sheet metal screws. When you take out the seats and remove the insulation from the back wall, you will see spots along the top where there are bump-outs that have a piece of sheet metal over them (hard to explain, but you will see). I used 3 of the sheet metal screws across the top.

 

There are also 2 bolts that are welded to the sheet metal. I cut the bottom one off, left the top one and matched up a hole on the plywood to go over the bolt. This added another attachment point and I used a washer and nut on the bolt. In addition I did use Liquid Nails where ever possible. I have 2 amps, 4 crossovers and a power/ground distribution block mounted on the board and it is very sturdy.

 

Wish I would have taken pictures along the way, but hope this may help.

PFF09Sierra Enthusiast

PFF09Sierra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Correct me if im wrong but the space behind the seats of an extended cab is less than a crew cab model? When looking at mine yesterday and FAILING to mock up what I needed before I took the back seats out it doesn't seem as if there is that much room than what I'm seeing in Skank's pics. Again I FAILED to notice I had to cut out the seatbelt tensioner or the fact that I had to account for the seat brackets themselves! BUT, lesson learned and once I get my damn seat belt fixed and put my seats back in im sure I'll have to move my amp again lol

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
Posted
I just finished my install and basically followed Skank's recommendations in the other thread. He was a big help. I used 3/8" plywood for the board and 5/8" self-tapping sheet metal screws. When you take out the seats and remove the insulation from the back wall, you will see spots along the top where there are bump-outs that have a piece of sheet metal over them (hard to explain, but you will see). I used 3 of the sheet metal screws across the top.

 

There are also 2 bolts that are welded to the sheet metal. I cut the bottom one off, left the top one and matched up a hole on the plywood to go over the bolt. This added another attachment point and I used a washer and nut on the bolt. In addition I did use Liquid Nails where ever possible. I have 2 amps, 4 crossovers and a power/ground distribution block mounted on the board and it is very sturdy.

 

Wish I would have taken pictures along the way, but hope this may help.

 

yeah it is kind of hard to explain. but youll see it when you take it appart. i did 4 screws across the top. cut off all 3 studs. and the bottom was held by the seat bracket when i put the seat back in. i also put a layer of close cell foam behind. so nothing rattles. it all worked out great. check out my thread.

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