Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone-

 

This has been annoying me for a while now and it is getting worse now that it is warm and I have the windows open. The brakes in my truck tend to squeak at low speeds when I'm NOT on the brake pedal. Seems like the noise will go away when I'm applying them and above say 30 mph. The pads are basically brand new, put them on last fall before snow. It did it in the fall too, but then winter hit and I couldn't hear it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas.

 

Thanks!

Jeff

Posted

Did you use the anti squel lube on the pins and pad backings? Are the rotors "blued" or heat stress cracked? Some pictures of the condition would help

Posted

Yup, put lube on everything. Rotors were replaced at the same time the pads were. They are not blue nor do they have any cracks. I can grab some pictures tomorrow.

Posted

The lube is sold at most parts counters and comes in little packs for 99 cents. It keeps the sound of they metal parts found causing squel and vibration noises.

Posted

The OP didn't say he just replaced the brakes, so I'm assuming he didn't. The squeek/squeal may be from the wear indicators on the pads. Pull the wheels and see how much pad you have left.

Posted

OK, I now see where the pads were replaced last fall. I'd still pull the wheels and take a look at the pads. If a caliper or pad is sticking, you may be using only one pad to brake on a wheel. What kind of pads did you use, organic, ceramic, semi metallic?

Posted

That was happening on mine, exact same things. Is it your rear brakes? That's where mine was. I took the caliper slides out and greased the living hell out of them, put grease on the little ledges where the pads rest (where the tabs slide into the holders) and put it back together. Make sure there is plenty of caliper lube (that's the name of the stuff, regular grease won't work) on those slide pins. Basically, as you drive there is some ever so slight warpage of the rotor. This is making the caliper slightly move and "week, week, week, week, week". My god it's annoying.

Posted

Sorry, haven't had time to get any pictures yet. It is the front brakes, I have drums in the rear. I believe it is those pins and/or sliders. I'll rip it apart next time I get a chance and lube it up again.

 

Thanks!

Posted

my new 2010 has had brake squeal since new. seems to come and go... i can't pin it down to after a rain storm or anything like that. a minor annoyance, i hate to tear apart brand new brakes, if it gets worse i may have to.

 

kind of embarrassing to pull up in a brand new truck with squealing brakes... :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...