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Rancho 4" Lift Problem Nnbs

kshoblom

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blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

Take some more pics from above and behind when turned at full lock. Lets see if you're hitting the sway bar or frame.

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stlavsa Senior Enthusiast

stlavsa

Posted
Posted
Take some more pics from above and behind when turned at full lock. Lets see if you're hitting the sway bar or frame.

 

Ohh i kinda thought the last pic was supposed to be full lock..

 

 

Was there an alignment done? I havent seen one of these kits, but what about the tie rods did they need cut? Trying to think of something that wasn't done, that shouldve been.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted
Take some more pics from above and behind when turned at full lock. Lets see if you're hitting the sway bar or frame.

 

Ohh i kinda thought the last pic was supposed to be full lock..

 

 

 

 

 

They are but I can't see the sway bar.

kshoblom Enthusiast

kshoblom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

First off, thanks for all the replies! I'm still waiting on a response from Rancho too.... Hopefully these photos will help answer some questions and I'm more than happy to take more if someone has some suggestions. Would an alignment affect where the steering stops hit, assuming it's hitting equal on each side now?

 

With the wheel at full lock to left:

 

Photo 1- looking at the driver side from the front.

 

Photo 2- Looking at the passenger side from the back.

 

Photo 3- Looking at the passenger from the front, you can see where the lower control arm hits the steering knuckle. I understand that this acts as the steering stop, but I think it's because it's hitting this too soon by at least a full inch that causing the suspension to compress on one side and make a grinding noise while making a hard left or right turn.

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kshoblom Enthusiast

kshoblom

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Also I noticed how you ABS sensor wire is stretched out to the max but I don't know if that will affect anything.

 

 

 

Yeah, I THINK I got it routed okay on one side, but wanted to put a couple miles on it to make sure before I adjust the other. I assume being snug is okay against the knuckle so long as there's some free play up top to move...? My big concern is that it's going to rub on the wheel and take out the wire.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

Everything looks fine from those pics. What size tires/wheels? Are you certain that the tires aren't grabbing the fender liner?

kshoblom Enthusiast

kshoblom

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Oh no, stock 18" rims and stock 31.5" tires. Got plenty of space to add 33" or 35" tires later once I finish saving up so nothing rubbing now. Only thing I see making contact is the lower control arm. I know it's suppose to in order to prevent over steer, but it seems like being able to turn the wheel an inch or two after it makes contact isn't right, especially since it compresses the shocks down on one side while turning at wheel lock. Noise aside, is that going to harm/damage anything in the long run or crest too much of an impact if I turn to wheel lock too fast?

old-chevy-dude Senior Enthusiast

old-chevy-dude

Posted
Posted
Oh no, stock 18" rims and stock 31.5" tires. Got plenty of space to add 33" or 35" tires later once I finish saving up so nothing rubbing now. Only thing I see making contact is the lower control arm. I know it's suppose to in order to prevent over steer, but it seems like being able to turn the wheel an inch or two after it makes contact isn't right, especially since it compresses the shocks down on one side while turning at wheel lock. Noise aside, is that going to harm/damage anything in the long run or crest too much of an impact if I turn to wheel lock too fast?

 

 

I've been told by 3 shops the Rancho 4" requires after market wheels because the oem don't have the required back spacing and will rub.

cparks555 Senior Enthusiast

cparks555

Posted
Posted

My truck definately handles and turns better with the +18 offset wheels and larger tires. I had some issues with the 17" stock wheels and 265's, in a sharp turn it felt like the truck wanted to keep going straight. Is this kind of what you mean?

jnpaddison Enthusiast

jnpaddison

Posted
Posted

I have OEM 17's and they don't rub , bind or anything like that (285/70's) ,, full lock left to full lock right

Sounds like the (3) shops you went to want to sell you new wheel / tire package ...

( the turning radius has been reduced via the lift )

 

FYI : When i had the (265/70's) ,, I dont recall any tire binding issue

VT_Z71 Enthusiast

VT_Z71

Posted
Posted
I have OEM 17's and they don't rub , bind or anything like that (285/70's) ,, full lock left to full lock right

Sounds like the (3) shops you went to want to sell you new wheel / tire package ...

( the turning radius has been reduced via the lift )

 

 

I'll second that!!

 

To the OP: Could it possibly be your smaller tires 'rolling over' on themselves when you are at full lock? When I first got my lift I had 285/70/17 Cooper STTs on stock rims. For some reason, at low speeds and at full lock, you got the 'sensation' that the tires were rolling over the top of their sidewalls. It was never any problem, just an odd feeling that took some getting used to. I have heard of some others with this exact same thing when running smaller tires with any suspension lift.

 

All of that went away when I stepped up to wider / taller rubber.

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