Aftermarket Stopping Distance

CapitalTruck · July 12, 2011

Do you think it's my imagination that the Carquest blue rear disc pads that I just installed on my GMT-800 are requiring slightly more pedal force for similar stops than the OEM GM pads that were on there (that I installed last time?) Anyone else experience this? Maybe they take a while to break in?

old-chevy-dude · July 12, 2011

or you have air in the brakes..

CapitalTruck · July 12, 2011

or you have air in the brakes..

How would that happen? From pushing the pistons in? (wouldn't think it would)

oldmann · July 12, 2011

the oem are pretty good. it is possible!

old-chevy-dude · July 13, 2011

or you have air in the brakes..

How would that happen? From pushing the pistons in? (wouldn't think it would)

oh I dunno, you didn't mention fully what you did to the brakes.. just tossing out my thought on it.

CapitalTruck · July 13, 2011

or you have air in the brakes..

How would that happen? From pushing the pistons in? (wouldn't think it would)

oh I dunno, you didn't mention fully what you did to the brakes.. just tossing out my thought on it.

Just replaced oem rear pads with carquest blue. I didn't think the rear brakes did enough work to even have to consider this.

Wires · July 13, 2011

Do you think it's my imagination that the Carquest blue rear disc pads that I just installed on my GMT-800 are requiring slightly more pedal force for similar stops than the OEM GM pads that were on there (that I installed last time?) Anyone else experience this? Maybe they take a while to break in?

Depending on the pad material, they may require more heat to get to optimum braking force. You typically need aorund 1000 miles to break in the pads as well.

Knowklew · July 13, 2011

did you buy semi metallic pads?

CapitalTruck · July 13, 2011

did you buy semi metallic pads?

They're ceramics (as the OEM are ceramics). Interesting note about the 1000 mi break-in.

kdixer · July 13, 2011

It is completely sensable that some pads stop better than others. different formulations of pad materials result in different amounts of friction between the pads and rotors. They need to be heat cycled and broken in properly, but it may just be the nature of the pad material.

brianf60 · July 14, 2011

Right now there is very little being done to make sure that aftermarket parts are of the same or equal quality to OEM. Most Rotors that are installed are being made in China and other Asian coun tries ans they are not equal to the North American ones. They cost about 1\5th the price.

That being said did you replace the rotors? Or machine them? If not then the pads will nopt seat in properly and will never be as good as the first set...

CapitalTruck · July 14, 2011

Hi,

Didn't replace/machine rotors...I've done many a brake pad change without that and didn't have this problem. I wondered about that though...

Interestingly enough:

I bought some OEM pads today, I'm going to change the CQ ones out and see if they OEM ones do a better job (as my recollection of them says they might). CQ pads: Made in India...OEM GM pads: Made in USA. This doesn't mean as much anymore, but it might mean something. Yeah, I've heard there are no standards for aftermarket rotors...only OEM pads have to pass DOT safety standards. Also, this might be nitpicking, but I can see where these CQ pads were relined (the backing pads were clearly at one time painted gold, they were spraypained black over it and stamped "Raybestos.") There's some places where the black spraypaint didn't totally cover it. [Edit: This was just some of the bonding agent used to adhere the friction material to the backing plate. It was NOT gold paint, whereby making my assertion that the pads were re-lined most likely false.]

Right now there is very little being done to make sure that aftermarket parts are of the same or equal quality to OEM. Most Rotors that are installed are being made in China and other Asian coun tries ans they are not equal to the North American ones. They cost about 1\5th the price.
That being said did you replace the rotors? Or machine them? If not then the pads will nopt seat in properly and will never be as good as the first set...

CapitalTruck · July 14, 2011

Okay, well, this problem is solved. Installed OEM GM pads for the rear-end. Brakes feeling good again, stops with less pedal pressure. Folks, this may be hard to believe, but there really is a difference. If you buy brake pads for your truck I would strongly recommend going with the OEM pads. Not ACDelco Durastops, but the real deal. Yes, you'll have to pay more, but you'll get the stopping power your truck was born with. Just don't buy them at the dealer, they'll rape you. They wanted 180 bucks near me! I got them from an ACDelco retailer for $96.00. I had trouble believing that REAR pads could make this noticable of a difference, but they do. Attached are some pictures that show the difference between the two pads. The only real thing I can see is about 3/4 of a square inch less surface area (the CQ pads are angled more gradually, making for a smaller initial contact area. Take a look at the pics below, you'll see what I mean. OEM pad is on the bottom in top pick, on the right in bottom. I'll continue to be a Carquest customer though because their service is excellent. They let me return the pads and gave me a full refund.

ChevyTech77 · July 14, 2011

Those brake pads are severely glazed. That won't help them seat in and bite the rotor well at all.

brianf60 · July 15, 2011

The pads have a bigger chamfer to help reduce noise. Making pads that stop quick, last forever and are whusoer quiet is tuff job. Something always has to be sacrificed...