Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Raced Guy said "Does anyone else with the 6.2 get piston slap. Mine has 28k on it now and its below 30 here and even if I let it warm up for a minute or two it sounds terrible. It remimds me of my old mans 2000 5.3 wirh 315k. I've noticed this summer it sounds like its developed lifter noise on the left side."

Have you checked your exhaust manifold bolts on the driver's side? Had the slap in my '02 2500HD, never caused a problem. Thought I had it in my '07 vmax, turned out to be a broken manifold bolt, driver's side rear. My exhaust guy told me it was common. I've heard two reasonings. He had heard that it was the iron manifold and aluminum head heating up at different rates, someone else told me it was from torque twist and short exhaust hangers. Either way it couldn't hurt to check.

  • Like 2
Posted

Funny you mention that, we did have that issue with my moms 03 denali. Unfortunately it is not a broken bolt/exhaust leak, i would be glad if it was !

Posted (edited)

Back home from Mesa. Stored trailer and bike for return in the spring and maybe a week in Feb.

 

Wow! The 6.2 got an amazing 21mpg on the return to Canada trip. I was totally surprised.

Edited by Likarok
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have had my new 2013 Sierra Max for about 3 weeks now and couldn't be happier with the power and performance. Today I did my first trailer towing and the torque monster just climbs those hills effortlessly! I do find I have suffered some on handling with the 2013 as compared to my 2009 which probably has to do with the smaller tires and wheels. Could anyone comment on whether they have changed to 20" tires with the NHT package and if it made any significant difference in towing?

Posted

I have had my new 2013 Sierra Max for about 3 weeks now and couldn't be happier with the power and performance. Today I did my first trailer towing and the torque monster just climbs those hills effortlessly! I do find I have suffered some on handling with the 2013 as compared to my 2009 which probably has to do with the smaller tires and wheels. Could anyone comment on whether they have changed to 20" tires with the NHT package and if it made any significant difference in towing?

 

Not the 20's but I did swap over to a set of the Z71 18's. When I measured the wheels they were the same overall diameter and I check my speedometer with a GPS and it was the same. No difference in performance either. I do like the older version Texas Edition 20's but they are taller and I am thinking they would not ride as soft because of the wheel size.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Badbo: I swapped my 17s for factory 20s (GMC Sierra/DenaliALY 5419 with Goodyear Eagle LS-2 P275/55R20) on my 2010 NHT LT Crew. I commute about 100 miles a day. The ride is a little firmer/sportier. Overall tire size is the same so no change in speedo (per GPS) and no loss of gas mileage (I average 17-18 mpg consistently).

 

I also tow a 30' utility trailer with 6-7000 lbs for weekend high school band trips with absolutley no problems with stopping, starting or swaying.

 

Black with "4X4" decals deleted and the 20s frequently garners compliments!

Posted

Well Ive been lurking on this site for two weeks now and thought I give my new baby some credit. On Dec 14th I traded in my 2008 Avalanche in on a New 2012 Silverado LTZ crew cab 6.2L. Man I love this truck! So much more power!! Already Ive have added a K&N drop-in, tint, hood decales, bed cover, nurf bars and weathertec floormats. Next thing I need to figure out is how to add a picture on here...

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So happy to be part of this group!

Edited by dgrinnell
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Are you running just the RC leveling kit for front only?

 

 

 

Well, it gets you the 6.2L, HD springs, HD locker, and 3.73 gears mainly.

 

Off GM's website.

When equipped with the awesome Max Trailering Pack, a Silverado® Crew Cab™ can haul up to 1980 lbs.1 of whatever it takes to get the job done, and Extended Cab models can tow up to 10,700 lbs.2 The package includes the powerful Vortec® 6.2L V8 SFI engine, heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential, Handling/Trailering Suspension Package, 9.5" rear axle, 3.73 rear axle ratio, 4 – 17" x 7.5" 6-lug aluminum wheels, P265/70R17 on-/off-road blackwall tires, fog lamps, front and rear disc brakes and Trailering Package. Standard Box only. Not available on Z71® Off-Road Package.

1 Maximum payload capacity includes weight of driver, passengers, optional equipment and cargo.

2 Maximum trailer weight ratings are calculated assuming a properly equipped base vehicle plus driver. See dealer for details.

 

 

In order to choose this feature, you also need to add: Vortec 6.2L Variable Valve Timing V8 SFI engine -GVWR, 7300 lbs. (3311 kg) -Rear axle, 3.73 ratio17" x 7.5" 5-spoke aluminum wheelsOn-/off-road blackwall tiresAntilock 4-wheel disc brakes

 

Posted (edited)

Been out of pocket for some time and recently returned from a trip through the Sierra Nevadas in November.Truck performed flawlessly. Noticed I hadn't posted up in this thread so here it is.

 

This first one is a sort of crappy shot in the garage of one of the aluminum and black enamel 6.2L badges I added some months ago.

 

IMAG0457.jpg

 

 

 

IMAG0426.jpg

Edited by Robert1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Whats the best or a good kind of spark plugs to use in a 2010 sierra denali 6.2l? If possible some to increase MPG but overal just want some good ones in there, truck has 70,000km so wouldn't hurt to change them. I have already installed a new k&n air filter, wanna change the plugs and then the oil with mobil 1 synthetic!

 

Thanks in advance for any input on the plugs!

Posted

Starting in 03/04 GM trucks came with Iridium plugs which are good to 100,000 miles. When changing I would change to AC Delco iridium plugs

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...