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Remote wire with stock HU

arctictwist

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arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
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I did a search on this site and another and Im finding so many different things. Where can i connect the remote wire for my amp if im keeping the stock head unit? I saw one guy reply with a link to another thread that had you make this wiring harness but it seemed like that was to actually get power, but i just want a remote line. My amp will have a 4 guage line off the battery. Other threads listed several different colored wires under the dash and some in some plugs under the dash. Please give me a difinitive answer for this. Thank you.

 

Forgot to specify its an 08 Silverado CC. LT no bose.

wottenad Enthusiast

wottenad

Posted
Posted

I did a search on this site and another and Im finding so many different things. Where can i connect the remote wire for my amp if im keeping the stock head unit? I saw one guy reply with a link to another thread that had you make this wiring harness but it seemed like that was to actually get power, but i just want a remote line. My amp will have a 4 guage line off the battery. Other threads listed several different colored wires under the dash and some in some plugs under the dash. Please give me a difinitive answer for this. Thank you.

 

Forgot to specify its an 08 Silverado CC. LT no bose.

 

 

There is no true amp turn-on lead from the factory deck. Best you can do without adaptors is to wire it to RAP accessory power (pin 8 in "X14" port of left I/P junction block - it's the black covered panel to the left of the brake pedal - fourth port down on the left side, pin 8 is bottom left pin). This will turn on the amp whenever the key's on, regardless of whether the radio is on or not.

 

Another way you could do it would be to wire what's called a "trunk-loc" , which provides a turn-on output when it senses voltage on the speaker leads (ie; when you turn on the radio).

 

If you're never going to turn off the radio when you're driving, the first method is perfectly fine. if you like to drive in silence sometimes, spend some $$$ and do the second method.

spankrz Enthusiast

spankrz

Posted
Posted

i ran a hot wire on a toggle switch for over a year and never had a problem. all the amp needs is current on that pin to switch on, and no current it goes off. i hid my switch on a bracket i made under the dash next to the obdII port.

Cloudsplitter Enthusiast

Cloudsplitter

Posted
Posted

How are you sending signal to the Amp? Speaker level inputs (using the stock speaker wires into the amp)? Why don't you try a PAC Audio adapter? I just put one in and it has a remote turn on lead for the amp. It is true plunge-n-play, no cutting wires, plugs directly into factory harness and gives you 4 RCA outs. http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=366&CategoryID=28

 

I ordered mine from Amazon and it was less than the $54 it quotes on the site. Proab the easiest and cheapest way too add an amplifier to your truck and retain the factory speakers if you want.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

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It seems like most people have engine noise with those. Also I havent seen a solution for the chime loudness issue with these.

Cloudsplitter Enthusiast

Cloudsplitter

Posted
Posted

Engine noise usually comes from running your RCA cable too close to power wire (usually the one that is supplying the amp as well). Good quality RCA's are insulated and shielded enough to keep most EM interference out, but you still shouldn't run even the highest quality RCA right next to power cable.

 

I'm actually using a JL Audio CleanSweep. I just pulled the Adapter Harness off the PAC Audio unit, cut off the input plug and rewired it to a matching 14 pin Molex plug connecting the two. I haven't used it yet since I am still in the process of installing all the door speakers and Fatt Matt. I just finished the roof today and the doors should be done by Friday with the speakers installed and wired.

 

I dunno, I would give it a try and if you get engine noise just return it.

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