Jump to content

4.8l or 5.3l?

bowtie454

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

intake, exhaust, tuned by black bear, 20's, level and a block in the back, and a trans cooler. i was up by destin. but gas mileage wasnt bad in florida

bowtie454 Enthusiast

bowtie454

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was planning on doing the exhaust,intake, and i was thinking about a programmer but keeping everything else stock unless you think i should do something else that'll help im looking for as much help as possible

David_L6 Enthusiast

David_L6

Posted
Posted

im looking to get a 03-07 2wd single cab short bed silverado and was curious what might you guys think is a more suitable motor for my conditions, the only really towing i do is carrying a 4x4 atv, and a little 16' skiff. i was just curious to everyone's opinion.

 

 

Get which ever you can find the best deal on. There's very little mileage difference between the 4.8 and 5.3. I've had both.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

the only things i can suggest to help are a tuner. i as well as most people here prefer custom tuning from black bear and they have a hand held. that will run you about $550. exhaust and intake are for your grins. they make noise :drool:. one thing that will help is dont put all terrain tires on. stick to highway tread. find Low Rolling Resistance tires.

bowtie454 Enthusiast

bowtie454

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i see what you guys mean by them having no mpg difference i was in my buddys 99 5.3 z71 scsb and i was watching the screen of the programmer and noticed he was getting 16.8mpg with nothing else done to it

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

thats instant. where you need to go thru a few tanks and calculate out an average by hand. dont trust the DIC or programmers. but a custom tune to fit your specific needs will help

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

the only things i can suggest to help are a tuner. i as well as most people here prefer custom tuning from black bear and they have a hand held. that will run you about $550. exhaust and intake are for your grins. they make noise :drool:. one thing that will help is dont put all terrain tires on. stick to highway tread. find Low Rolling Resistance tires.

 

 

tires thing is true... use highway tires for better MPG's. they also ride and handle a lot better then knobbies

David_L6 Enthusiast

David_L6

Posted
Posted

the only things i can suggest to help are a tuner. i as well as most people here prefer custom tuning from black bear and they have a hand held. that will run you about $550. exhaust and intake are for your grins. they make noise :drool:. one thing that will help is dont put all terrain tires on. stick to highway tread. find Low Rolling Resistance tires.

 

 

tires thing is true... use highway tires for better MPG's. they also ride and handle a lot better then knobbies

 

 

Definitely. I like Michelin LT2. I've had 3 sets of those on 3 different trucks (plus one set of the original LT).

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

i went from 265/75R16 firestone A/t's to 275/55R20XL Cooper discoverer H/T plus tires and mileage picked up

  • 5 weeks later...
bowtie454 Enthusiast

bowtie454

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks everyone for there output i just ended up getting 2000 5.3l scsb stepside and glad i did there really isnt much of a difference, but what can i do for upgrades? besides (cai) exhaust, tuner. anything else?

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

looks. like factory 20's i love mine. i added a tool box. if you want to do s ome engine internal stuff a cam and valve springs from an LS1/LS6. also if you want to try u can get the center console im not sure if you have a straight bench or the 40/20/40 split if its a straight bench id try for the split seats. theres numerous things. also mirror swaps

bogeypro Enthusiast

bogeypro

Posted
Posted

I would say that the 4.8 woe be fine. My brother pulls four wheelers and even a small rv around with his 4.8 with no problems. Plus, don't have to worry about afm with the 4.8. I absolutely hate the afm.

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

the gmt-800 4.8 is a dog, the 5.3 hands down is better....bettter torque, pretty much the same mileage...i have no idea about the gmt-900 4.8s, they got a little better numbers but still get the 4l60e...so yeah

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 710 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Blazer is all put back together. Another hard-won battle. The 4.3 is not easy to work on in such an archaic and narrow chassis originally designed for an inline 4.   My baffle issue is solved. I returned to the OG junkyard but was ready for a fight. The Blazer I had picked from was stacked on another vehicle so I had no idea how the heck I was going to get myself to working height to pull the front end apart. I had seen an S10 pickup on the ground so I was hoping the part would be the same, AND, I couldn't remember if the S10 still had a front end or not. But I didn't need to worry because it turned out to be my lucky day. The yard had just taken in a '98 Blazer, sitting right up front, on the ground, with room to work around it, and the front end hadn't been hit. The baffle and all the clips were factory perfect. I also scored another good handful of odds/ends and the whole shebang only cost me $20.   Got everything back together and it fired right off, sounds good, runs good. I've got a little coolant drip from a lower water pump bolt (D'OH!!). I did the right thing and snugged it down a little bit, and of course that didn't fix it. Yet again, I will have to soak everything in coolant to drain it down to the water pump, remove the bolt, and attempt to re-seal it. Nothing is easy on this truck. Nothing. But now all the radiator plastics are correct, snug, and fully functional. No more rubbing on the cooling fan. It runs, drives (took it for a 30 mile drive last night), no Check Engine lights, EGR is working, no vacuum leaks. We're getting closer...   The replacement wiper motor arrived yesterday. The tailgate was already disassembled and waiting, so I threw that in. It works! Sort of. Two new issues on the list. While the motor is strong enough and the gears aren't stripped, the wiper is hanging up on the bottom of the rear glass. This is the old style where the lower half folds down like a truck tailgate, and the glass swings up, and they meet in the middle when closed. The glass isn't sitting flush with the tailgate, now that I look at it. No rubber bumpers that I can see for adjusting, so I'll have to look at the hinge adjustment to see if I can correct it. Also, the washer/squirter just dumps fluid underneath the truck. The lines actually run inside on the floor so I'm guessing the tailgate is soaked at the rear trim and the line is disconnected. There's also a drain there....probably for this reason.   The leaky water pump bolt was really disappointing. JUST STOP LEAKING...OMG!!   Replacing the window motor and a rear door speaker are still to do, and then everything will work. I want this to feel like a "good" vehicle worthy of dropping $600 for new tires before I do. That means no leaking first. I hurt, and I'm kind of cranky, so I'll probably take a day of rest and do the water pump again tomorrow.
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Just saw on Jay Leno the new Scout. That’s the way it should be done.
    • Atlas
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Atlas · Posted

      EV's have their nuances too. Best to operate the current type of lithium batteries between 20-80% charge. No real need to charge until you hit around 20%. Occasionally charge to 100% when needed. Longer term storage, battery should be 50-60%. At least those are the guidelines for our iX. We've been exceptionally good to the battery in that car...easy to do when you can charge at home like we can.   EV's lack so many of the rituals and so much of the visceral feeling ICE vehicles provide, which is why I think they're hard to accept for a lot of gearheads. They're fun in different ways, though.
    • diyer2
      Winter Returned

      By diyer2 · Posted

      We have got a lot of rain lately, we needed it. Storms/lightning took out a floor fan. Dirt roads badly rutted from run off.   Power here is sketchy, whole house surge protector in the service panel and all electronics plugged into surge protectors. My biggest concern is my stereo, I've been an audio nut for years. $25 k in equipment. Stereo is on it's own special surge protector.
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Happy Birthday!  I also turned 72 this year.  In some groups I consider myself to be a young senior and in others I realize I have serious years behind me!  In June I spent a week in the hospital due to a blood clot following knee replacement surgery.  The hospital Doctor assigned to my care specialized in Geriatric medicine!  He is a great Doctor but the fact I required this type of specialized care  made me feel old!  Aging comes with new challenges but I sure appreciate getting older!  It most definitely beats the alternative!!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...