Jump to content

ready lift leveling not enough


Recommended Posts

Posted

i currently have a ready lift leveling kit, its just the keys, supposed to be 2 inches. i have had it on for a while, when i installed it the diffrence was very unnoticeable. is there another leveling kit i can put on for more, or is there something i can add?

 

 

the truck still sits lower in the front by about an inch and a half

 

 

2001 silverado 1500 4wd

Posted

You are saying you have already cranked the torsion bars to the max? If you are still not level with the torsion bars maxed, it sounds like you may need new torsion bars. When I put my level kit (reindexed keys) I had to back the bolts out a bit from stock setting to gain level.

 

Just a guess...

Posted

You are saying you have already cranked the torsion bars to the max? If you are still not level with the torsion bars maxed, it sounds like you may need new torsion bars. When I put my level kit (reindexed keys) I had to back the bolts out a bit from stock setting to gain level.

 

Just a guess...

 

 

yes that is what im saying. hmm good point i never though of that, im not sure if its just the way the truck is or my bars are shot

Posted

Maybe your bars have no "spring" left in them, if they are worn out it's very possible. I would not add another leveling kit to the front end. If you want to make your truck higher, a full lift kit would be a better but more expensive option. Your ball joints and cv's will appreciate it.

Posted

i would love to lift my truck, but i cant justify dumping 3000 into a 12 year old truck with over 100k.

 

 

 

i have never head of torsion bars wearing out, especially with only around 100k, but with my luck they probably are worn

Posted

I'd say it's time for new torsion bars, IMHO!

 

 

i havent even looked, but about how much do they go for

Posted

I've never priced them and so far I haven't been able to find anything online for pricing. I've looked at Rockauto and Advance, nothing so far.

Posted

Finally got gmpartsdirect to work so for my truck they are about $185USD each (online price). Not as bad as I expected but still not cheap either.

Posted

I'd say it's time for new torsion bars, IMHO!

 

 

I agree. Very little bolt left with re-indexed keys means that something is wrong.

Posted

So I thought some more. What about the front of your torsion bars? Did they possibly "spin" in the control arm socket? It's a long shot at best but worth a peek. Just not sure how you could confirm it either.

Posted

i currently have a ready lift leveling kit, its just the keys, supposed to be 2 inches. i have had it on for a while, when i installed it the diffrence was very unnoticeable. is there another leveling kit i can put on for more, or is there something i can add?

 

 

the truck still sits lower in the front by about an inch and a half

 

 

2001 silverado 1500 4wd

 

I had the same issues on my '02 (2 WD). My RL kit advertised 1 - 3" of lift possible. With the pre-load bolts run in for 3" the ride was so harsh and jarring that it was not really drivable. I didn't want a body lift and could not afford a complete suspension lift so I went with a spindle lift. Doetsch Tech has GM spindle kits up to 4" I think and they were the only ones that would allow me to keep the OEM rims (many of the kits require rims with more back-spacing to allow the rim, at the 12:00 position, to clear the new spindle). I went with their 3" spindles and ended up leaving my RL Leveling kit set at about 1.5". It was a long 2 day job for me but I'd never done any front end work either. It came out fine and I learned a lot about my truck and some tools I hope I never need to use again. I'm sure I could do one in a day now but it was a challenge that first time. It required a professional F/E alignment when it was back together. I think the Doetsch Tech kit was about $400 total.

Posted

when i search for torsion bars the only thing that comes up are keys and the torsion unloading tool.

 

So I thought some more. What about the front of your torsion bars? Did they possibly "spin" in the control arm socket? It's a long shot at best but worth a peek. Just not sure how you could confirm it either.

 

 

im in florida until saturday but when i get home im definatley gonna try and look around closely under there and see if i can figure any thing out

 

i currently have a ready lift leveling kit, its just the keys, supposed to be 2 inches. i have had it on for a while, when i installed it the diffrence was very unnoticeable. is there another leveling kit i can put on for more, or is there something i can add?

 

 

the truck still sits lower in the front by about an inch and a half

 

 

2001 silverado 1500 4wd

 

I had the same issues on my '02 (2 WD). My RL kit advertised 1 - 3" of lift possible. With the pre-load bolts run in for 3" the ride was so harsh and jarring that it was not really drivable. I didn't want a body lift and could not afford a complete suspension lift so I went with a spindle lift. Doetsch Tech has GM spindle kits up to 4" I think and they were the only ones that would allow me to keep the OEM rims (many of the kits require rims with more back-spacing to allow the rim, at the 12:00 position, to clear the new spindle). I went with their 3" spindles and ended up leaving my RL Leveling kit set at about 1.5". It was a long 2 day job for me but I'd never done any front end work either. It came out fine and I learned a lot about my truck and some tools I hope I never need to use again. I'm sure I could do one in a day now but it was a challenge that first time. It required a professional F/E alignment when it was back together. I think the Doetsch Tech kit was about $400 total.

 

 

could you post a link to where i can find a spindle lift? i looked around a little bit but couldnt find much

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,229 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...