Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I can't believe I just started reading the thread, I love it!

 

 

I'll add...I let my wife drive my truck today :(

Posted

if u have no cats and are running straight pipes u get in trouble, if the bottom of your truck is higher than 3 feet you get in trouble if your windows are dark you get in trouble its ridiculous and youd think here in dune town they would go easy on the locals but nope theres a few that are incredibly annoying

 

 

 

Well straight pipes sound like ass unless it's a built motor and the majority of the trash that guts the cats and runs without mufflers aren't running a built motor, it's some worn out thing. And I really can't see something 3' from the road having any business being on the road anyhow. I understand why they're strict around the dunes because if they weren't than all the hacked POSs would be out on the streets screwing off. And with all the tourist/kid stuff in the center of town where that absurd roundabout is having some hillbilly buit truck running around is just asking for a disaster. There's already enough people that hate off roaders so I see it as a responsibility to make sure I'm reasonable and don't add to that. People who oppose ORV parks aren't rational enough to realize that without the dunes that town wouldn't even exist.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hauled this home!018-1.jpg

 

While getting this!!! Even if I only went 50 mph for over 100 miles!! That driving slow saves fuel may be true! :jester:014-1.jpg

Posted
I'll add...I let my wife drive my truck today :(

 

What were you thinking?

 

Jim what is that your hauling? 19.9? WOW, I actually seen 14 mpg this past weekend :)

Posted

What they need to crack down on instead of modifications is the way people drive. I just drove 124 miles out of town to class. It took longer than normal even with construction because of truckers trying to pass each other which brings everyone down to 55-60 MPH on a road that holds a speed limit of 70 or dipsh*ts that cant comprehend a sign that says "SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT" I maybe spent a whole 20 miles of that drive at 70+ MPH. People who congest traffic need to be sited no people with no cats, a lift, or in my case failing an emissions test because my K&N tube didnt have the sticker with the CARB Compliance number

 

 

 

i cant stand when people drive in the left lane and dont move over. luckily the headlights on my truck shine into the windows and blind any type of car in front of and the get out of the way quicker

Posted

What they need to crack down on instead of modifications is the way people drive. I just drove 124 miles out of town to class. It took longer than normal even with construction because of truckers trying to pass each other which brings everyone down to 55-60 MPH on a road that holds a speed limit of 70 or dipsh*ts that cant comprehend a sign that says "SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT" I maybe spent a whole 20 miles of that drive at 70+ MPH. People who congest traffic need to be sited no people with no cats, a lift, or in my case failing an emissions test because my K&N tube didnt have the sticker with the CARB Compliance number

 

 

 

i cant stand when people drive in the left lane and dont move over. luckily the headlights on my truck shine into the windows and blind any type of car in front of and the get out of the way quicker

 

 

Mine do too, but in daylight it doesn't affect people.

Posted

What they need to crack down on instead of modifications is the way people drive. I just drove 124 miles out of town to class. It took longer than normal even with construction because of truckers trying to pass each other which brings everyone down to 55-60 MPH on a road that holds a speed limit of 70 or dipsh*ts that cant comprehend a sign that says "SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT" I maybe spent a whole 20 miles of that drive at 70+ MPH. People who congest traffic need to be sited no people with no cats, a lift, or in my case failing an emissions test because my K&N tube didnt have the sticker with the CARB Compliance number

 

 

 

i cant stand when people drive in the left lane and dont move over. luckily the headlights on my truck shine into the windows and blind any type of car in front of and the get out of the way quicker

 

 

Mine do too, but in daylight it doesn't affect people.

 

 

that is a valid point i didnt mention

Posted

Ryan, had to buy new mattress, so being the bright guy that I am I said self (thats what I call me) you dont need a trailer to haul them home with the bed cover just strap them down and head home!! That went well for about 10 seconds and 60 mph, I checked mirrors and looked like I was going to lose my load. Pulled over retightened straps and started out again, at about 50 mph everything was good at 51 mph it looked like I was going to loose it again. So for 100 miles down the interstate I was the old guy that everybody hates going 50 mph but I stayed in the right hand lane the whole time. :jester:

Posted

Last time I picked up a mattress a yr ago I decided to go on a rainy day. That was bright

 

 

Ryan

 

 

Posted
I'll add...I let my wife drive my truck today :(

What were you thinking?

 

 

IDK, I was just too tired after work to move my truck out of the way for her to get her car out of the garage. She prolly thinks she's a truck girl now, LOL.

Posted
put my dune flag back on, gonna get out in the sand this weekend

 

I was hoping to go out, some friends are but with my work schedule I'd have to go there and back all on a Saturday and that just isn't worth it. Too much damn driving.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 504 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...