Jump to content

Intermittent Blower Motor


Recommended Posts

Posted

A few days ago I went to put my truck in my garage for the night and when I shut it off the fan wouldn't shut off. A quick search on here lead me to believe it was the blower motor resistor. So I pulled the fuse to save my battery and off to bed. Came into work the next day and down to the dealership near my work I go. The woman helping me found multiple part numbers for me so we ended up looking it up by my vin. Ended up getting PN 89019351 and it cost me a lot more than I was expecting... Could have saved a lot if i would have ordered from eBay. After work I went right at it to install the new part. Soldered the new wires nicely and taped it all up. Tested the voltage on the end connector to the motor and I had voltage. Went to plug it into the motor and the motor won't turn on... By this time, I'm quite frustrated because it's supposed to be a simple install and my time is running out since I had to go. While driving with my so called not working blower, it kicked in! Made me slightly more happy knowing that it kinda worked. Yesterday though, the blower didn't work yet again. So i got back under my dash and pulled the motor and tested all my connections and the voltages again. Plugged it in and the blower spun up while sitting on the floor. Put it back in and it stayed working. But on my way to work this morning it wouldn't work... again....

 

I have no more ideas as to what it may be except for a finicky motor that may have been damaged from my last blown resistor module. Anyone have an ideas that I may be able to use to try to determine what may be causing me issues with my blower?

Posted

I'm not too sure. I've checked the voltages to the connector to the motor and it looks ok to me. The motor itself is just a spin lock and doesn't need any ground. I'm leaning towards the motor may have been damaged from the last resistor module but am unsure what type of damage it may have caused if it's only running intermittently.

Posted

The motor itself is just a spin lock and doesn't need any ground

 

 

I apologize but could you explain what "spin lock" means?? In an electrical system there will be a ground somewhere, even if it's a bolt down (case grounded) component.

Posted

When i was trying to remove the motor i was stumped bc i couldn't locate any bolts to hold it in but i read somewhere that the 06 sierra has a spin in motor. I was able to move the motor back and forth slightly but couldn't figure our how to get it off. When i contorted my body to look underneath it, there was a little tab that you can push out of the way to allow the motor to spin and just come out. What I could best describe it as is like one of the medicine bottle where it locked into place when you spin it far enough.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Here's my 2 cents, but it's based on my old 1990 1500. Blower wasn't operating in the different speeds. I reviewed the manual (I actually have the HELM books on this truck :) ) and it gave me the troubleshooting steps.

 

I replaced the blower motor & squirrel cage; then all three relays and the thermositor and still the same issue. I traced the electrical diagram to a molex connector. I found that connector under the radio. The molex was melted so I got intermittent connection when it got hot.

 

I went to Fry's Electronics and got a molex connector that had the same amount of connections and proceeded to replace the bad one.

 

I had a little trouble with the length of the wires and trying to crimp on the new male/female connectors, so I chose to lengthen both sides with splice/solder/heatshrink. I snapped the connectors in and everything was great. Now I wish I still had that truck.

 

I hope this might help someone with a similar problem.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...