Jump to content

Noob Need help with lift and tire questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just purchased a 2013 GMC sierra 1500 SLT BC ALL TERRAIN 4x4 stock 20's with 3.42 Gears

 

i have a couple questions that im sure have already been answered and apologize in advance

 

1) what lift do i need to run a 35" tire on a 20" rim?

 

2) what brand suspension lifts do you recommend?

 

3) will running this size tire on a 3.42 gear (6spd tranny)be a problem?

 

4) will you post photos of your truck and mention the lift and tire size?

 

 

I'm very sorry for the questions and if there stupid.. new to lifts and dont want to ruin a brand new truck!!

 

THANKS

Posted

i hate lifted trucks ,,,,,yes you are wrecking a perfectly engineered truck !!!

 

imho of course

 

(***offensive comment removed)

Posted

I'm sorry your older then dirt and couldn't climb in one!!

(***Removed Comment)

Posted

Everyone is entitled to their opinions, please leave the offensive comments out of this forum. Back on topic

Posted

Welcome to the forum. For 35s you'll want to go with a minimum of 6". Keep in mind that not all 6" lifts provide the same amount of lift, let alone provide the same quality. Anyway, on to my recommendations:

 

FTS - will provide 8" of lift despite the fact that its not labeled as such.

 

Fabtech - see above description.

 

Both of the above can utilize bilstein 7-9 adjustables up front for 9" of lift (. Which is what you want if you don't want to trim for the 35s).

 

BDS is another good one which some have reported getting closer to 7" of lift.

 

Those are my top 3 based on quality, price, and desired height. I have a 6" BDS kit set to 7" with a 3" body lift, 37" trail grapplers and 20x10s. If I did it again it would be FTS with adjustables to get a little higher.

 

For the gears, don't worry. You'll feel the difference but gears aren't critical. I ran 3.42 for several years before regearing. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions here. You'll see an example of my abomination to engineering below....maybe I'll get an Echo instead...

Posted

Welcome to the forum. For 35s you'll want to go with a minimum of 6". Keep in mind that not all 6" lifts provide the same amount of lift, let alone provide the same quality. Anyway, on to my recommendations:

 

FTS - will provide 8" of lift despite the fact that its not labeled as such.

 

Fabtech - see above description.

 

Both of the above can utilize bilstein 7-9 adjustables up front for 9" of lift (. Which is what you want if you don't want to trim for the 35s).

 

BDS is another good one which some have reported getting closer to 7" of lift.

 

Those are my top 3 based on quality, price, and desired height. I have a 6" BDS kit set to 7" with a 3" body lift, 37" trail grapplers and 20x10s. If I did it again it would be FTS with adjustables to get a little higher.

 

For the gears, don't worry. You'll feel the difference but gears aren't critical. I ran 3.42 for several years before regearing. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions here. You'll see an example of my abomination to engineering below....maybe I'll get an Echo instead...

What he said, lol. Are you in Myrtle? I live in MI is why I ask :seeya:

 

4" Rancho, 1.5" body lift, 20x10, 35's

DSC00626_zpsee498a45.jpg

Posted

Yes, I'm in Myrtle.. Where did you have your lift done? truck looks good! I've been about everywhere in town and they all use RCV lifts.. and from what I've seen on forums lately people either love or hate them.. I was looking at the BDS 6" Lift or the Zone 6" lift.. from what i understand i should stay away from the RCV and the Zone is the BDS without the lifetime warranty..

 

I don't plan on ever taking the truck off-road.. only time maybe to hit a fishing hole or out to the reserve on 378 to go shooting.. all of which are graded roads..

 

I have already ordered 20" Black XD Monsters.. and 35x12.5R20 nitto terra grapplers..

 

so i just need to decide what lift to get

Posted

I have a 7" Full throttle suspension lift aka FTS very nice quality heavy duty and excellent ride quality, i too have 3.42 gears in my k1500 and im looking to get 33s just for the fact i drive alot and dont want to throw off my mpg or speedo with aggressive 35s you can run either of these two sizes and still look good.

 

541198_10200795482110404_230498164_n.jpg

Posted

Not sure what you're talking about when you say RCV? Do you mean RCD? They're good if so. If you're talking about RCX or Rough Country, then yes. They leave a lot to be desired. Zone is good, Procomp is ok.... Your 35s will rub just about regardless of which kit you go with so I would strongly suggest you go with a kit like FTS. or you can buy an FTS and come see me. I'll trade you my BDS kit for it. :thumbs::jester:

Posted

Yes I'm sorry in town here everyone installs Rough Country Lifts 5" and 7.5"

Posted

So if I order the Zone 6" or the BDS 6" I will be ok with 35's?

Posted

The rims are 20x9 18

 

What BDS kit do you have? With coil over or without?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...