Jump to content

Can you push caliper piston too far back in??


Recommended Posts

Posted

Can you push a caliper piston too far back into the caliper to where it gets stuck?

 

I was checking my brakes last night and needed to push the pistons back in some and I might have pushed too hard and too far in. Is that possible? I have no pedal pressure and I'm wondering if that's the reason. This is only on the driver's front since that's the only side I was checking.

 

Is there a way to get the pistons to push back out while they are still on the truck so I don't have to take the caliper off and then bleed the system?

 

There should be no air in the lines since I did not disconnect any lines or anything. The only thing that I forgot to do was take off the master cylinder cap before I pushed the piston in. I only had to push the piston in maybe 1/4 of an inch.

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

If you didn't open the system you're fine. Pump the brakes a few times. Brake from a slow speed. If it pulls away from the side you checked, pump them and try again. If soft but straight that's normal after a push back.

Posted

Yea, there is no pull at all. It still stops perfectly straight, just a soft pedal.

 

Won, what would happen if I didn't clamp the hose? I didn't do that the first time when I replaced the pads two weeks ago and it worked fine until last night.

 

As I said, i didn't have to push the piston in that far. Actually it was less than a 1/4". More like an 1/8th probably.

 

Also, if I bleed the system, do I need to bleed all for corners or can I just do the fronts?

Posted

I forgot to add that when the truck is off, I can pump the pedal and I get really strong pedal pressure and it holds.

Posted

I think your truck is doing the same thing as mine did. You need to build your own pressure bleeder and re-bleed all wheels till you get no air bubbles.

Posted

That's what I was going to do since it's fairly easy and cheaper. I'm just wondering how air would have gotten into the system in the first place?

Posted

I don't have a clue, but the same thing happened to me. I was changing pads, pushed the pistons back in, then had to go to town to get the pads. 40-50 mins later put the pads back in and put everything back together and VIOLA! No pedal pressure with the truck on, could build a decent pedal with it off. Me and my Dad tried to bleed the air out of it but ended up driving it to a mechanic and he pressure bled it and got the air out.

How air can get in when you are only changing pads is a new one on me....

Posted

But that did fix your issue though? Pedal went back to normal after that?

 

I might take it somewhere after work and have them bleed it so they can use the Tech tool and bleed the ABS just in case. They will do a complete fluid flush at the same time.

Posted

Yeah, I had to drive on rear brakes only to my mechanic about 50-60 miles away. I got it to him and he pressure bled the system and all was well. I still have somewhat of a soft pedal (could all be my imagination), makes me tempted to get a set of Stainless Steel lines.

Posted

I had a softer pedal when they were working properly but from what I've read that's the norm on the GMT-900's.

 

I'm looking at getting a set of Stainless lines to help firm up the pedal. Gotta get this issue fixed first though.

Posted

Last night I had my wife push the brake pedal down while I watched the caliper pistons and they were moving out like they should. Once I put the wheel back on I spun the wheel as fast as I could and had her apply the brakes and they stopped.

 

That makes me think that air got in the system somehow since everything is working properly and there are no visible leaks anywhere.

Posted

Will I need to have the ABS bled as well? None of the shops around me can bleed the ABS because they don't have the Tech tool.

 

I can only get into the dealer on Friday morning if I want them to bleed the ABS as well but I don't really want to wait that long.

Posted

The shop I took it to didn't have to. I may have been lucky though.

Posted

Did you clamp the brake line and open the bleed? If not, open your wallet.

 

 

This makes no sense. I literally pushed in hundreds of caliper pistons over the years not doing the above process and there was never an issue.

 

OP- I suppose it may be possible you pushed it so far the seal became unseated? I'm guessing here. I always used the compressing tool for it.

Posted

After thinking about it more I don't think so. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times with the caliper off and I noticed the piston moving out very slowly so I don't think it became unseated. I would think that if it came unseated the piston wouldn't move at all.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Because single shot injectors are ancient and multi hole injectors provide smoother running engines and sharper throttle response due to the fuel being atomized better..the best lead I have is a 24lb blue top injector almost everything matches up but the injector will put out about 26lb/hr which is just outside the gm threshold.figured id ask here to see if there was an absolute answer
    • Why is my question?   Any change in injectors requires a tune. Unless you are going back with the OEM part number or a newer part number of that same injector.   Any size difference or type difference like the EV6 style injectors all have different injector data for them. And there is no EV6 injector that matches the factory 25 lb/hr size that your truck comes with. I've been messing with these trucks and tuning them for a long time and what you trying to do doesn't exactly make sense to me.
    • My 6.6 gas lt8 had lifter noise with 28000 miles bought new 2026 and while driven to dealer it threw #1 rod bearing “HD my ass” good luck with yours i hope it don’t turn a rod bearing!
    • When a condition becomes a business model.    https://www.gm-trucks.com/gm-truck-suv-incentives-pricing-2026/   Zane posted this in "Latest Articles".    The honest bottom line   Truck buyers have spent three years assuming this is a temporary condition that will break once inventories normalize. GM just presented it to investors as a durable strategy, on a chart, as evidence of good management.   Inventory did normalize. GM is at 511,000 units and squarely inside its own 50 to 60 day target. The discounts still did not come back, because the low incentive number is the goal rather than a symptom of shortage.   Plan your purchase around that reality instead of waiting for it to change. Follow our ongoing GM News coverage for pricing and incentive changes as the next-generation trucks land.
    • Thought it was raining this morning when we woke. Nope. Dew point was over 80 F and humidity 98%. Zero visibility distance. Everything was 'sweating'. I've seen rain come out of clouds but never out of Pepper or the tree trunks.    Wicked storms just missed us sliding off to the east but by blocks. Heat index about 110 F with air temp in the 90's.    This is  our third wave this month of multiple days of this type of weather. And yet the grass is going dormant and the ground is cracking this side of the street and water up the the hood opposite. Just weird stuff going on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...