Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Did you go with a 4" or 6" from bds? Any pics?!

I went with the four inch kit. Install was a breeze and quality is top notch. Here it is with the OE wheels and Cooper Zeons in 275/60r20. Fuel Hostage and Toyo AT's in 295/60r20 will be here next week. I'll be installing the pocket style flares when the wheels show up. Thinking about 1.5" spacers for the rear wheels too.

post-131834-0-66096600-1405692106_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-06967000-1405692130_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-66096600-1405692106_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-06967000-1405692130_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-66096600-1405692106_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-06967000-1405692130_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-66096600-1405692106_thumb.jpg

post-131834-0-06967000-1405692130_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks, that sounds like a pretty good idea. Thats the route I'm gonna go.

 

How do i know what offset the rims need to be when i buy them? I know i want 18's I just don't know anything else about rims.

When i get the BDS lift does anyone know if i need to extend the break lines as well? Im looking to purchase and install everything this fall and want to buy everything at the same time. I just don't know what "extras" i need beside the lift, rims and tires. Thanks

No need to extend any lines or wiring (or buy new hoses). Kit comes 100% complete. You relocate a few brackets to drop those items.

Posted

I went with the four inch kit. Install was a breeze and quality is top notch. Here it is with the OE wheels and Cooper Zeons in 275/60r20. Fuel Hostage and Toyo AT's in 295/60r20 will be here next week. I'll be installing the pocket style flares when the wheels show up. Thinking about 1.5" spacers for the rear wheels too.

 

If your buying new wheels anyway, why do a spacer? I had spacers on stock jeep wheels, I didn't have any real problems, but put on wheels with proper backspacing as soon as funds allowed. Just seemed ify with a set of lug nuts you cant easily check hidden behind the wheel.

Posted

If your buying new wheels anyway, why do a spacer? I had spacers on stock jeep wheels, I didn't have any real problems, but put on wheels with proper backspacing as soon as funds allowed. Just seemed ify with a set of lug nuts you cant easily check hidden behind the wheel.

I'm only looking to space the rear wheels. I'm not a huge fan of spacers, but I want to be able to rotate my tires to keep them wearing properly. Spacers make more sense to me than wheels with different offsets.

Posted

anybody experiencing a radial pull to the right running TOYO MTs???

Try swapping your front tires to see if the pull goes to the left. That will tell you if it's a tire. Double check for equal tire pressure before you go that far though.

Posted

I don't know about a pull, but I have a vibration they can't get rid of after I put on Toyo Open Country. It's driving me nuts. I have had the tires balanced 2 times with a speed balancer. Now I'm gonna try a load force balancer. I hope that works cause I don't even like driving it right now.

Posted

I just ordered spacers for the rear. I'll let you know how they work out. They should be here weds.

Posted

I have the 7-9 Mcgaughys lift set at 8. I'm running the 22x12 -44 Fuel Nutz wheel, with the 35x12.50x22 mud gripper. The truck sits almost perfectly level. I'm also running 1 1/2 spacers on the rear wheels.

 

IMG_1623JPG3_zps304ef62c.jpg

 

IMG_1627JPG3_zps649b94af.jpg

 

IMG_1626JPG3_zps93b17013.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

I have the 7-9 Mcgaughys lift set at 8. I'm running the 22x12 -44 Fuel Nutz wheel, with the 35x12.50x22 mud gripper. The truck sits almost perfectly level. I'm also running 1 1/2 spacers on the rear wheels.

 

IMG_1623JPG3_zps304ef62c.jpg

 

IMG_1627JPG3_zps649b94af.jpg

 

IMG_1626JPG3_zps93b17013.jpg

What's the fender height?
Posted

47 in the rear and 46 1/2 in front.

Cool thanks
Posted

47 in the rear and 46 1/2 in front.

Take that dang from air dam off!!! Looks great though! I have same setup by 20x12

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • HD at the moment, are kinda their own deal.  How LTZ sells on those vs on 1500, there is a difference.   They are merging most of the mid trims on 1500.  LT, RST and LTZ are replaced by one trim, Silverado.  LT and RST are a BIG portion of sales.    Bad naming choice aside, the new Silverado trim will offer the spread of options that those three trims offered.  So expect to see things like the tech package for example, and memory seats.  And LT Trail Boss will now just be "Trail Boss" (formerly LT Trail Boss) but will offer content spread like the new Silverado trim will.  The press photos showed the Trail Boss (formerly LT Trail Boss) has access to Super Cruise now, which on the current truck was High Country only.       Here is the Trail Boss interior.  Memory seats and Super Cruise are present.  All things the LT Trail Boss it replaces, and the RST it was based on didn't get on the current gen.  You had to go to LTZ or ZR2 for memory seats, and High Country for Super Cruise.      
    • I installed a Hellwig rear sway bar on my 21 Sierra SLT, it made a huge difference on how the truck handles, no body roll, the trucks much more planted now. Not sure of the suspension differences between the 21 and 26,  if its body roll your having a sway bar will solve it. 
    • So a follow up and my fix. I found in online searches the live data to look at on a scan tool to verify the fuel tank pressure sensor was working.  It showed an spec number towards the lower end of the rang, but in spec.  Then while it was running opened the gas cap and the pressure should change.  It didn't change even a tiny bit.  The data for the purge valve said it was open...never changed. So then I measured the voltages on the plug for the fuel pressure sensor and they matched what it should be.  So local car quest parts had the sensor in stock...it was a bit of a pain to remove and an even bigger one to get it to actually go back in.  It helped to unbolt the driveshaft and bungie cord away from the gas tank to give a bit more room to work. So fuel tank pressure sensor in I cleared the code, and started it up.  I went to the scan tool's live data and... Eureka! The pressure number was different and fluctuated a bit.  So took it on a short drive and pressure number varied saw the purge valve go from closed to open and back to closed.  Drove it to and from work for roughly a week plugged in the scan tool no codes.  I took it in to get tested and passed.  In my state's infinite wisdom (oops meant greed), since I pushed the test with the maximum extensions I have to take it back in by Feb '27 to 'get it back up to date', then my next test won't be until Feb '29. 
    • Any grease on the stud threads of any kind?   Wheel studs should have NOTHING on them for proper torquing and so the nuts don't back off.     Are all of the mating surfaces clean?  So wheel, rotor and hub?     We've had plenty of trucks at work with that wheel, this is a first to me.  Makes me think they've got a lube tech putting anti-seize on all the wheel studs or some kind of grease, and they need to stop doing that.  To have 11 other trucks with the same exact problem.      
    • I was a Chevy guy for years, then switched to GMC because I liked the looks better.  I'm actually thinking I like the Chevy looks better than GMC for the first time in a lot of years.   One thing I know for certain, the new GMC dash is hideous!  Chevy wins this one!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...